Jacking up the Beast... never thought I'd have to ask...

[70bigblockdodge]

It is just the rubber flexing a bit, your just not used to it (no rubber in a A body)

 

[Melifluonze]

Ummm...

No. Not quality pieces. Definitely a foreign weld and metallurgy test... going to get my other ones as these freak me out.

Thanks a TON for the help!

BTW, good eye... that little bit of red is my '67 Charger...

-M

 

[Yatzee]

So, I've got my '67 New Yorker up on a jack on the K frame (in front of the oil pan). I'm staring at the underside trying to figure out where to put the jack stands... I tried placing them under the front frame members on either side, but, when I lower it it seems like there's too much weight in front to have them there! The whole car is changing position!!! The car is solid, that's not the problem...

Is this the right place, or is there a secret here??? Yikes!

- M

 

[Yatzee]

I don't like working under a vehicle for extended periods when it's sitting on jack stands. I also do not the thought of the engine weight cantilevering beyond the body mounts so I set the car up ( on it's own wheels to work underneath ) with these. I have two sets and when the car is on them there is about 19" clearance to the floor. I've removed and installed the tranny, installed a new exhaust, removed the drive shaft, installed headers and many more repairs, all in a very safe manner. For front suspension work, the car sits on a 12 inch diameter log set directly below the engine under the front middle cross member. Over time, I found the exact height to be 16" and I can add to the top with wood shims if more height is required. Call this overkill but I strongly believe in "An once of prevention, another day to live." When both front and rear are on these blocks the car is not only raised and sitting safely but there are no obstructions to inhibit total movement to work under the car. To work on the rear of the car I always support the vehicle directly under the toque boxes and if axle droop is not required, stands go under the axle tubes while the car is still supported under the torque boxes. Each to his own, work safe.

 

[67Monaco]

Some visualization may help.
Like what was said, anywhere from the front crossmember and forward.
As you can see, the front stub frame (no K-member) is as rugged as a battleship.

Whao whoa whoa.... Where'd those tubular UCA's come from?

 

[commando1]

Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering

 

[livininharrow]

Some visualization may help.
Like what was said, anywhere from the front crossmember and forward.
As you can see, the front stub frame (no K-member) is as rugged as a battleship.

very nice looking member you have there commando.

 

[rumpfox]

i allways put the stands under the control arms at the balljoints. i've seen the windshield crack were you placed the stands. if you can't open the front door you've got the car in a bind. not good

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

I've alwayz liked wood blockz az jack standz and let me explain why. In some areaz of the country(not all) you can buy 6"X8"X8 feet treated landscape timberz. Used to be $8 ah piece but I think they're up to $20 now(when you can find them, still no big deal) Most lumber yardz will cut them for you for cheap. Buy two and have them cut into 15" piecez and you wind up with TEN 15" blockz plus two scrap shortyz. With one or two per corner the elevations become: 6", 8", 12", 14", and 16" and they ain't movin' anywhere. I left 30 of 'um behind in Michigan when My Bride and I moved south only because where we are now they frown on me using one of their treez to swap and engine, and they even get crabby when they see me under one of the ridez on My dawg bone creeper, SHISH. Hard tah believe ain't it?

 

[commando1]

I dumpster dive construction sites for 2x8's, cut'em up in 12" sections and stack'em.

 

[mr. fix it]

I dumpster dive construction sites for 2x8's, cut'em up in 12" sections and stack'em.

Spoken like a true C Body owner! I'm proud of you Stan!!

 

[Fury440]

My Dad was very safety aware and drilled into my thick skull to always have something thicker than me under a car on blocks or jacks. That way if if falls it might break the odd bone but it won't crush me. Apparently when a car falls on your chest, you don't die of broken bones, you die from the inability to breathe.

I use a bunch of 2' stubs of 4"x 6" landscaping timber and a bunch of really good quality jack stands. The jack stands hold the car and the timber stack makes sure I have room to get air. Stan's suggestion to take a cell phone sounds like a very good idea.

The photo showing the 1"x 6" between the jack and the frame is bad idea, 1" is easily split so use either 2" x 6" or even better 3/4" plywood.

Never use masonry of any kind.

Rant Off

 

[mr. fix it]

My Dad was very safety aware and drilled into my thick skull to always have something thicker than me under a car on blocks or jacks. That way if if falls it might break the odd bone but it won't crush me. Apparently when a car falls on your chest, you don't die of broken bones, you die from the inability to breathe.

I use a bunch of 2' stubs of 4"x 6" landscaping timber and a bunch of really good quality jack stands. The jack stands hold the car and the timber stack makes sure I have room to get air. Stan's suggestion to take a cell phone sounds like a very good idea.

The photo showing the 1"x 6" between the jack and the frame is bad idea, 1" is easily split so use either 2" x 6" or even better 3/4" plywood.

Never use masonry of any kind.

Rant Off

good safety tip...

 

[Big_John]

Wood cribbing block DIY for raising the car in addition to jack stands | VW TDI forum, Audi, Porsche, and Chevy Cruze diesel forum

You can always build some of these too. They are extremely strong. Google cribbing strength if you want.

 

[polara71]

I personally never extend the jack stands. If I need height they go on wood beam blocks that I have in various sizes in the garage. Everything from 1 1/2" to 6" thick in various lengths. As I got older I became more paranoid about not being able to breath

 

[commando1]