Support for stub-frame removal

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Jan 2, 2016
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Location
Harpersfield, Ohio
Where is the best place to support the rest of the car when I remove the front sub-frame? I have an 8' piece of I beam to rest it on, my plan is to place the beam between the floor braces that are behind where the sub-frame bolts into the car, and use 2x6s and plywood to take up the spacing between the beam and the 2 floor braces. It was a pretty nice day here in Ohio, I got all the sub bolts out (only broke 1- pretty good for a 47 year old car) and never-seized them and put them back in loose. Only things left to undo is the master cylinder and rear brake line.
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I just used jack stands under the front rocker. These have the slot for the pinch weld to. Sit in.


Alan
 
Thank you, and you and Alan have awesome looking rides!!

I went and read your thread, great info, and now I will have to make a run to Summit to get some Rust Bullet. My plan is to try to fix the areas on the "stub" frame (I do sometimes pay attention) where someone dented the bottom either from jacking or from hitting it on something. And it will be a lot easier to clean up with it out of the car. By the times get this all done the weather should be more cooperative.
 
With the body stripped down I doubt there is 300 lbs at the front, get a cheap Harbor Freight furniture dolly and lay a 4x4 on it to span the front. Run a ratchet strap through it and you are done. I used the board and 2 casters as that is what I had, I did need to keep a few buckets of scrap iron on the front floor board because when I was working in the trunk the car would tip up (I also put jack stands under the rear of the body).


Alan
 
I have 4 car dollys that I use to push things in the driveway. A pair of those, a 4x4 and a strap is an easy solution once the sub is off. The PO has painted the bottom but did a poor job of prep, I will have to clean it up and paint it again, there are a couple of places that need fixed, more straightened out than replaced.
There are small "straps" on the bracket that bolts to the stub, they run from the floor pan to the bracket and they are broken. My guess is this is from not having the trans crossmember in while towing it home from Indianapolis. Anyway they need to be repaired, along with the quarters and trunk extensions.
It is in need of lower quarters, has anyone used American Muscle Car Parts from eBay? They have quarters just curious if anyone has had success with them.
 
Car dollies have other uses,
Recently I needed to move the car while I had the rear out so it was put on the dollies with 4x4s
2016-01-16_006.jpg

During the bodywork phase I had the rear on jack-stands on the dollies
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It was very solid and we were able roll the car with no problems.


Alan
 
Joey: WhenTF are we going to get stickies...

We don't need auto introductions but an auto reply email...

"Thank you for joining FCBO.... now Post pictures QUICK, buy the Factory Service Manual and Factory Parts Book... There are no quality sheet metal panels for these cars, ClassicParts4U, C2C, etc, all junk don't bother...
 
Thank you Stan, I couldn't find any reference to them on FCBO. Murry Park is on my list of places to call anyway, just trying to get a game plan together. Thank goodness this car is not from Ohio, the quarters would be completely gone, along with much more. I have a 62 Dart 440 also so I know what looking for needles in the haystack is like.
 
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