383 cui 2bbl replacement

69_topless

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Hi everyone, I finally join the forum as C body owner, although have 69 Polara 500 convertible for around 6 years.

And there is a first question. Polara have 383cui with original stock 2 barrel carburetor Carter 4614S, which needs some work although still works quite ok. The throttle shaft is worn out and I guess that's the spot where the gas leaks on the outside body, if I give it a shot of gas before cranking. The leak is very evident, I need to dry out the gas on the intake immediately. This is must be done, if not driven +24hours before, to make the engine start easy. During engine operating, there is no visible gas leak.

Anyway, I was checking the market for new replacement and found Holley 2300 series only, no other option. Everyone seems to make 4bbl only. Or did I missed some producer?

Switch to 4bbl is tempting, but prefer to keep the car the way, it was build 48 years ago. On nice weather day, with top down and drum brakes all around, is 2bbl just fine with TTI duals on the other side.

Second option is to get the new rebuild carburetor, but the reliable sources are hard to come by. I do not trust to quality of rebuild units sold over major resellers. Can you give me advice, where to get good quality rebuild unit?

Or perhaps members from Europe, can me point out to reliable service shop where I can send my unit for rebuild? If its still possible/making sense due the throttle shaft worn out.

Thank you for your advice, appreciate your comments.

IMG_20150828_152756.jpg
 
If you already went the dual exhaust route then keeping it original doesn't factor in.
2 barrel and single exhaust or 4 barrel with duals
 
i got a rebuilt carter 599 bbd carb from summit. the first one was junk could not get it tuned in correctly.. they replaced it for free. the 2nd one bolted on and has worked since.

i dont know if that is an option for you, being across the water...

please dont drive your car with a known gas leak issue. my friend burnt up a T/A because raw fuel got onto the coil and intake and top of motor and very bad stuff happened.

try not to die -

- saylor
 
Go 4 barrell since you already have duals.
It will broaden your choices and ease for parts availability even if living abroad.

Factory 70 383 2bbl with the TTi duals you can go with a 625 CFM Edelbrock 4bbl carb with either a factory iron "301" casting intake or Edelbrock Performer intake.
Block the heat crossover and use electric choke.
Rebuild kits for the Eddy carbs much easier to locate,IMHO.
Hope this helps
 
Thanks for all the comments so far. I went to duals because I love the V8 sound. Was not duals a option for 2bbl? Anyway, for now look for as easy and fast swap as possible, which should be bolt on 2bbl.

It's tempting to go with 4barrel, but that require more parts/work/time then would prefer right now. And the budget gets to 2/3 of efi units, like affordable fuel injection
MOPAR/CHRYSLER Complete TBI System

So for 2bbl, the option is to get rebuild unit like Saylor, hoping to get correct unit on first time, or? BTW how many miles did you put on the car with the new unit?
 
I would go even more radical. Holley 750cfm vacuum sec. And Edelbrock Performer or RPM.
EFI cost much more money, fuel pump, etc...
 
i cannot give you an estimate of how many miles i have used the new carb - my speedo is unhooked...

you are correct on the swap to 4bbl - you need a 4bbl intake, new valley pan gasket, etc.

the first carb that summit sent me was either warped or somehow out of adjustment in/while trying to set the idle i could not get it to idle without being in the main circuit i.e. the butterfly valve was open past the idle point and set such so the car would be trying to 'go' - i hope that makes sense.
 
You could always buy a junk 2 barrel off of eBay (same model with a nice throttle shaft) and a rebuild kit from Mike's Carburetor (click on the blue text) to make one nice carb. If time is an issue, all I can say is that I rebuilt my four barrel in an evening with no prior experience (and a little help from Dad). Good luck!
 
The throttle shaft of your 2-barrel can be drilled out slightly and fitted with brass bushings to repair the leak. I have had a few carburetors repaired this way. If there is nothing else seriously wrong with it, then rebuild it and have the bushings installed during the process.
 
Whatever you do, stick with a Carter carb. No other carb will give you the driveability of a Carter.
 
Welcome to the site from the Motor City!
 
I love how active this forum is. Not sure if the offer is still valid, but found this NOS carburetor for sale on this site. Would it work with my engine? Or what Carter PN would work? Is there something I should be carefull about on old NOS carburetors? Like gaskets dried out?

For Sale - NOS Carter 4962 2BBL carb.
You will (almost) definitely need to rebuild it. Send the seller a PM if you want it.
 
Generally, a 4 bbl motor gets better MPG than a 2 bbl, if the driver keeps their foot out of the pedal. I'd swap to a 4.

I changed from the factory 4 bbl Carter ASV to an Edelbrock 750 cfm carb and Performer intake - got 2 mpg better on the highway. I know it doesn't make sense but it is true.
 
I changed from the factory 4 bbl Carter ASV to an Edelbrock 750 cfm carb and Performer intake - got 2 mpg better on the highway. I know it doesn't make sense but it is true.
Often the primaries on a 4 barrel are much smaller than the 2 barrel, so if you drive nicely and leave the secondaries closed you can improve your economy. Unfortunately most of us, (me included), enjoy the howl so press that pedal just a bit too far a bit too often for any hope of economy.
 
The throttle shaft of your 2-barrel can be drilled out slightly and fitted with brass bushings to repair the leak. I have had a few carburetors repaired this way. If there is nothing else seriously wrong with it, then rebuild it and have the bushings installed during the process.

Are you referring to this kit? Carburetor Throttle Shaft Repair Kit 5/16" ZA-01
Does it really works? It seems too easy process, to have the throttle shaft fitted correctly using these bushings. But it should, considering they ask for the tool around 170USD and it comes in kit with bushings good for 5 carbs, for 206USD. This might be the option, if it really works, although have only 1 carb to do.

I have checked the NOS carb 4962 in old local ad and it comes from 71 383cui. But best option would be Carter PN 6134, which should be a direct replacement. This carb is available on ebay for 450USD, but as user The Horvaths point out, it might still need a rebuild, although with some basic kit.

So far, I have not read any feedback for Holley 2300 series, which seems to be the only new 2bbl carb available. Is it that bad? My friend warned me, that they gets to leak in few years. Do you have this experience?

While conversion to 4bbl is tempting and for sure I would be enjoying more power because I do not hesitate to push pedal to the metal even with 2bbl, this is the last option for me mainly due the time requiring to research and collect part/get it running right.

There is my car for you to enjoy. Later, will post more pictures in relevant Fuselage section. Let say, it was not always in such a shape.

IMG_6801.jpg
 
I am not referring to one kit in particular. The number of carburetors I had repaired in this way were done by a professional who had lots of different sizes of bushings and was able to find the ones I needed. Of course, this is a pretty simple repair as long as you have the correct size bushings and the correct tools. You will have to remove the shaft, find the bushings that the throttle shaft fits into perfectly, re-size the holes in the base of the carburetor to fit the bushings, press or gently tap them into the carburetor base, and re-install the shaft. Note also that the plates on the throttle shaft are probably held in by special screws that will be difficult to remove because they are expanded slightly after they are installed from the factory. If you do not think you want to take this job on yourself, have a professional do it. You can also rebuild the rest of the carburetor yourself, and have a rebuilder or machinist take care of installing the bushings. I must add that the alignment of the holes must be PERFECT or the shaft will bind when it is rotated. Although it is not very difficult, the repair has to be FLAWLESS. The kit you mention seems pretty expensive. A good set of brass bushings and the skills of a good machinist should be less than the cost of that kit.
 
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