Dano
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That's awesome news buddy. I been watching can't wait to see the body re painted and the Motor done.
1969 Imperial progress thread
- Thread starter vdk2010
- Start date
I used german suppliers for both, but here are the links:
Cables are FLRy Automotive wires 2,5mm² and bigger. (approx. 14, 12 and 10 gause) http://shop.kabelknecht.de/epages/es102139.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es102139_Kabelknecht/Categories/"FLRY/FLY"/2,5mm²
Just search for FLRy, there are planty US suppliers!
The connectors are AMP SuperSeal, I think that's a european thing, but the US equivalent is Delphi Weather Pack. Like this one: (Delphi Weather Pack 2 Pin Sealed Connector Kit 16-14 GA)
Are you going to want to drive this car after its' completed??
You'll be freaking out if it gets any dirt on it!!!
Haha, no I will drive the heck out of it! And then again clean the heck out of it ;) But it will be a driver for sure!
No, absolutely not! Your metal work is outstanding! I'm totally impressed with your work! And I hope I will be able to get as far as possible to your body work skills! We sill see this summer, that's the next big step this year!
Thanks Dan! So do I, the day it's getting paint will be the best day of my life! Until then ;)
It was a long winter and I haven't redone big parts this winter. Just a bunch of small parts.
But I used the beautiful weather yesterday to "start" my shop season. I'm soo happy that I can finally get back to the Imp to work on it.
Last year I've read from Tom (MrFixIt) I think about his experiences about the dissolving the retaining rings on the driveshaft and because all of mine were broken off, I thought I give it a try.
And it was working great! I soaked both driveshaft ends in a bucket full of vinegar for about 8-10 weeks each to dissolve the rings. After the soaking time the rings fell out literally. Removing the caps from the u-joints was another story... It took me 30 minutes per cap with a hammer and an air hammer to get them out. But in the end, I got them all out, what is great because I was sure I had to buy a new driveshaft...
I'm sure I have to buy some parts besides the u-joints new, nonetheless and I'm wondering how they are called.
What's the name of the parts on the left and right?
But I used the beautiful weather yesterday to "start" my shop season. I'm soo happy that I can finally get back to the Imp to work on it.
Last year I've read from Tom (MrFixIt) I think about his experiences about the dissolving the retaining rings on the driveshaft and because all of mine were broken off, I thought I give it a try.
And it was working great! I soaked both driveshaft ends in a bucket full of vinegar for about 8-10 weeks each to dissolve the rings. After the soaking time the rings fell out literally. Removing the caps from the u-joints was another story... It took me 30 minutes per cap with a hammer and an air hammer to get them out. But in the end, I got them all out, what is great because I was sure I had to buy a new driveshaft...
I'm sure I have to buy some parts besides the u-joints new, nonetheless and I'm wondering how they are called.
What's the name of the parts on the left and right?
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I've been using Mauratic acid which is much more aggressive than the vinegar solution.
The parts look great!
BTW I think these are referred to as an "old school" "CV" joint...
The parts look great!
BTW I think these are referred to as an "old school" "CV" joint...
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Glad to see you jumping back on the big stuff now because Critter is about ready to finish up. lol
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
And I might add Wolfen is moving so fast he might be done before Critter. Yeah, we get bored pretty quick, but not to worry, the snails pace progress on my vert will fill in the gaps. Glad to see you back in the game Vodka!
I'm really happy I can finally work again in my shop, but I'm not sure right now with what to start this year. Washing down the Fertan rust converter results in the need to apply the 2k epoxy and that doesn't make sense until I did all the metal work.
I'm searching for a good metal shaping and welding workshop right now to learn the basics. The plan is to complete all the metal work this year.
I think the next step will be to strip down the paint of all the remaining hang-on parts and do the stubframe, k member and suspension parts. I also have to strip down the metal on the inside and the underside of the carcass. Lots to do, I just have do decide where to start...
What kind of paind would you use to apply over the POR-15? There will not be much UV light under the car, but I will do the best rust protection I can possibly do!
As a sideline, I will strip the paint on all seat track parts and paint (or maybe powder coat) them in order to redo the seats with all new internals and hopefully the original covers.
Another step is to paint the dash frame. I already stripped the paint completely last year but haven't had enought time to paint it correctly. The original was kind of a structured paint to reduce reflections in the windshield and I found a nice page about making your own structured paint. (Like the grill in the quote on post nr. 3 The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - View Single Post - 66 C10 interior color)
I'm searching for a good metal shaping and welding workshop right now to learn the basics. The plan is to complete all the metal work this year.
I think the next step will be to strip down the paint of all the remaining hang-on parts and do the stubframe, k member and suspension parts. I also have to strip down the metal on the inside and the underside of the carcass. Lots to do, I just have do decide where to start...
What kind of paind would you use to apply over the POR-15? There will not be much UV light under the car, but I will do the best rust protection I can possibly do!
As a sideline, I will strip the paint on all seat track parts and paint (or maybe powder coat) them in order to redo the seats with all new internals and hopefully the original covers.
Another step is to paint the dash frame. I already stripped the paint completely last year but haven't had enought time to paint it correctly. The original was kind of a structured paint to reduce reflections in the windshield and I found a nice page about making your own structured paint. (Like the grill in the quote on post nr. 3 The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - View Single Post - 66 C10 interior color)
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This is from the '68 parts book.
Thanks Matt, I have a similar picture in my fsm. But I have a few problems. Nr.1 some of the "bushings" caps are broken from getting them out (seen on the pictures), some are dirty and worn on the inside and all the seals are junk. So I need completely new u-joins.
The other thing is, searching for "joke" alone is not very efficient. I found a bunch of things under that name, but not the correct parts.
I'm a little further on my search until now but have to chekc and measure if these parts will work for me. I found a name that was very helpful and it seems jeeps are using this type of "Double Cardan Joint" today.
Here is a video I found to redo the entire assembly:
And that's an example of a source for these parts:
DANA SPICER 211355X Double Cardan CV centering yoke fits Jeep 1310 series CV driveshaft Spicer style constant velocity driveshaft centering yoke and replacement spring
I'm going to measure my old parts tonight at the shop and then write them to check if these parts will fit!
The other thing is, searching for "joke" alone is not very efficient. I found a bunch of things under that name, but not the correct parts.
I'm a little further on my search until now but have to chekc and measure if these parts will work for me. I found a name that was very helpful and it seems jeeps are using this type of "Double Cardan Joint" today.
Here is a video I found to redo the entire assembly:
And that's an example of a source for these parts:
DANA SPICER 211355X Double Cardan CV centering yoke fits Jeep 1310 series CV driveshaft Spicer style constant velocity driveshaft centering yoke and replacement spring
I'm going to measure my old parts tonight at the shop and then write them to check if these parts will fit!
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This is how you purchase a u-joint, as an assembly. I would be surprised if someplace like Rock didn't have them for your Imp.
I think we are talking past each other ;)
I'm aware about the u-joints! But...
I'm searching for a source for these (because the needle bearings are not good anymore):
and maybe these. I'm not sure yet if they are still good or not.
I'm aware about the u-joints! But...
I'm searching for a source for these (because the needle bearings are not good anymore):
and maybe these. I'm not sure yet if they are still good or not.
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Gotcha. I'd be willing to bet that the yokes in the bottom pic are fine and I'd hazard a guess that the needle bearings in the yoke in the top pic could be the same ones found in the u-joints so maybe you can get away with just ordering an extra u-joint and using it as a donor. Worth a check anyway.
I checked already and unfortuately they are not. The needles in the u-joints are shorter and thicker :/
Tada, found it but its pricey..!
NEAPCO 7-0041 CV Centering Yoke fits 5/8 inch stud on 1970 to 1973 Chrysler Imperial Driveshaft 1330 series 210841X
NEAPCO 7-0041 CV Centering Yoke fits 5/8 inch stud on 1970 to 1973 Chrysler Imperial Driveshaft 1330 series 210841X
traintech55
Senior Member
Now is the time to find a good Driveshaft shop. It has been my experience that if you do not get the shaft reassembled in the exact order it was taken apart it will have to be rebalanced. Besides they will be able to find the parts needed to rebuild it. Well worth the money spent.
Things like that are hard to find over here...
After grinding, filling, priming and painting it have to be reballanced anyway. So we will see.
I found all the parts I will need for a proper rebuild:
NEAPCO 7-0041 CV Centering Yoke fits 5/8 inch stud on 1970 to 1973 Chrysler Imperial Driveshaft 1330 series 210841X
Ford Double cardan CV Driveshaft Center H Yoke 1330 Series
NEAPCO 2-4800 Universal Joint 1330 series
After grinding, filling, priming and painting it have to be reballanced anyway. So we will see.
I found all the parts I will need for a proper rebuild:
NEAPCO 7-0041 CV Centering Yoke fits 5/8 inch stud on 1970 to 1973 Chrysler Imperial Driveshaft 1330 series 210841X
Ford Double cardan CV Driveshaft Center H Yoke 1330 Series
NEAPCO 2-4800 Universal Joint 1330 series
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Your Googling skills are extraordinaire.
traintech55
Senior Member
Das ist vunderbar. (did not pay attention to your location). Your right finding a good shop might be a problem, but hope we can help. When it is finished it will be great to take on the Autobahn.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Your original H yokes should be good and the CV centering yoke should be good you just need u-joints and the bearing kits for the centering yoke. I have got them for trucks and jeeps but I have never searched for imperial parts.
I saw in the video I posted he used just a bearing kit for the centering yoke and will see if this works for me, yes.
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