1969 Imperial progress thread

[bluefury361]

Julian, Chrysler could only WISH they could build their cars like yours. Of course they would have cost a 100K new and would be much rarer now.
Thanks for keeping us in the loop.

 

[vdk2010]

Thanks for the kind words, Will! If Chrysler had build them that carefully, most likely I couldn't afford it now and I would not be able to give it my own personal note

 

[Carmine]

Wish I would have seen your thread earlier... My best friend is a driveshaft engineer for Ford, and always comments on my Imperial's double cardan joint. He also used to work for Visteon, which was purchased by Neapco. Oh well, looks like you got it all figured out.

More beautiful work.

 

[CanCritter]

I've been using Mauratic acid which is much more aggressive than the vinegar solution.
The parts look great!

BTW I think these are referred to as an "old school" "CV" joint...

lve used muriatic acid a lot during my years as a mason for cleaning brick ect..used it once or twice to clean shovels but found they always rusted after that,,,anything metal would rust after a treatment so stoped using it on tools...imagine it would toast those rings but would be wondering what it would do to driveshaft if it wasn't aluminum...would definitely paint or seal to stop rusting but would be wondering about metal breaking down under the paint...wouldn't wana drop a drive shaft...
hard to find muratic acid in Canada now as l think its on a "list " now
JUST A WORD OF CAUTION WHEN USEING MURATIC ACID...
ALWAYS ADD MURATIC ACID TO WATER...
NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID OR IT WILL OR CAN EXPLODE !!
DO NOT BREATH FUMES

 

[vdk2010]

Thanks! I think muriatic acid is to harsh to use it on metal. The venigar worked just fine. It just took a while. But you definitely have to paint/seal the metal after that as well. It took only 1 day until the parts were rusty again...

 

[mr. fix it]

I've been using Mauratic acid which is much more aggressive than the vinegar solution.
The parts look great!

BTW I think these are referred to as an "old school" "CV" joint...

What I have been using is named "Acid Magic"
It is a tamer version of the pure muratic acid with very little fumes and will not harm your skin unless you happen to get it into cut then it can sting for a bit

I nuetralize the process with baking soda in water after using the AM then dip it in bio-diesel to coat the part until ready for painting.

 

[vdk2010]

What I have been using is named "Acid Magic"
It is a tamer version of the pure muratic acid with very little fumes and will not harm your skin unless you happen to get it into cut then it can sting for a bit

I nuetralize the process with baking soda in water after using the AM then dip it in bio-diesel to coat the part until ready for painting.

Of course, it's not available in germany. But I never thought about neutralizing the left over acid with a lye. Good point!
And the Bio-diesel is a good protection?

 

[Samplingman]

Don't you have Evapo-Rust over there? Expensive, but it works without the flash rust from acid or vinegar. I recently experimented with borax and lime juice, but that turned out to be a waste of time.

 

[vdk2010]

No Evapo-Rust or Metal Rescue, no. Just acid based rustconverters... Unfortunately. I had 2 gallons of Metal Rescue in the trunk when the car was shipped, but it's long gone. This stuff is awesome!

 

[Big_John]

Have you looked into electrolysis? Pretty easy setup with no acids.

Electrolysis Bucket

Technical - Rust removal using Electrolysis, and Zinc plating

 

[vdk2010]

I will do that for a long time but never tried it. But I will definitely try electrolysis on some parts this year, as well as zinc plating. I've found a nice product that contains all the chemicals so that you don't need any zinc blocks etc. Just pour it into a bucket and electrify it! Will try that for sure!

 

[ceebuddy]

Isn't phosphoric acid the way to go for rust removal? It should be available here in Germany, too.

 

[vdk2010]

I never heard of that one. But again a acid based rust remover. Metal rescue was nice because it was like water and it don't hurt your skin.

 

[65sporty]

Have you looked into electrolysis? Pretty easy setup with no acids.

Electrolysis Bucket

Technical - Rust removal using Electrolysis, and Zinc plating

That's some good stuff, Thanks Big John

 

[vdk2010]

Ok Guys, long time since the last update. I was way to frustrated this summer and decided to let it sit for a while and start all over again with new motivation instead of working on the body with too much frustration...

Here's the reason why:

The rust converting, pretoctive coating failed completely... The whole body had surface rust or even worst underneath the Fertan coating.
Instead, the unprotected sheet metal inside the car had no rust at all... I had better left the car in bare metal over the winter instead of using the Fertan stuff... What a bummer this was when I saw the car in spring.

But enought time passed without working on the car so I started sanding and grinding the whole car AGAIN last week. At least until my air compressor blow up and I had to order parts for it...
As soon as the air compressor is fixed, I will sandblast everything AGAIN and when the car is in bare metal again, I will use the next coating and hope this will be it this time. It's called Brunox and is similar to POR15, but designed to be the first layer of paint underneath the spray filler. So it stays on forever.

Man, sanding sucks...

That's it for now. More when the air compressor is working again and I do make more progress.

 

[Big_John]

Why don't you just spray some primer on the car? If you can't spray, there are roll on primers too.

I'm not a painter, but it just seems like you are doing a lot more work. The Brunox will probably have to stripped off before you can prime and paint anyway.

 

[commando1]

I would contact Brunox and raise Holy Hell.
They make some pretty bold claims on their website.

 

[vdk2010]

Why don't you just spray some primer on the car? If you can't spray, there are roll on primers too.

I'm not a painter, but it just seems like you are doing a lot more work. The Brunox will probably have to stripped off before you can prime and paint anyway.

Because I think it's not the way a paint build up is done, am I right? Is the primer the very first thing to put on the bare metal? I thought a layer of rust preventive paint of some sort is required!

 

[vdk2010]

I would contact Brunox and raise Holy Hell.
They make some pretty bold claims on their website.

The Brunox doesn't have to be stripped. It stayes on an the first layer of paint.

Because I think it's not the way a paint build up is done, am I right? Is the primer the very first thing to put on the bare metal? I thought a layer of rust preventive paint of some sort is required!

You mixed that up, Stan. The Fertan failed. The Brunox is the next stuff I will use and should have used in first place because using a product that requires to be washed off was a bad idea from the beginning.

But they claimed it would be easy to do. And I called them to be sure and they said it's the perfect application for their product...

I thought about calling them but came to the conclusion that it would not help me at all.

 

[Ripinator]

Ok Guys, long time since the last update. I was way to frustrated this summer and decided to let it sit for a while and start all over again with new motivation instead of working on the body with too much frustration...

Here's the reason why:
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The rust converting, pretoctive coating failed completely... The whole body had surface rust or even worst underneath the Fertan coating.
Instead, the unprotected sheet metal inside the car had no rust at all... I had better left the car in bare metal over the winter instead of using the Fertan stuff... What a bummer this was when I saw the car in spring.

But enought time passed without working on the car so I started sanding and grinding the whole car AGAIN last week. At least until my air compressor blow up and I had to order parts for it...
As soon as the air compressor is fixed, I will sandblast everything AGAIN and when the car is in bare metal again, I will use the next coating and hope this will be it this time. It's called Brunox and is similar to POR15, but designed to be the first layer of paint underneath the spray filler. So it stays on forever.

Man, sanding sucks...

That's it for now. More when the air compressor is working again and I do make more progress.

Vodka! You have done some mighty heroic work on that car. It looks better every time I see it. Regarding the rust: The guys on the "Overhaulin" show here in the states always hit their cars right after media blasting with a coat of what they call primer / sealer. I don't know what the brand name is, but I bet your local automotive paint supply guy knows what you need for that. After spraying the car, they then do the body work and final sanding / blocking - then the color, etc.