Oil pan gasket?

furyus 67

furyus 67

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I've about had it with these cork gaskets. I've been through 2 of em and am willing to admit operator error but when your torque specs for the oil pan cause the gasket to almost completely squish out on both gaskets. I've gotta question the gasket or the specs. I double checked the specs and they were correct. The gasket on the other hand.... Correct gasket it just doesn't like me. I've done a little googling and have found a couple of rubber/metal gaskets. What is the the preferred gasket for this this fine bunch of guys? Should I get the rubber one or continue with the cork? Thanks in advanced fellas!!
 
My '79 New Yorker needs the oil pan gasket. After ordering the cork one he (mechanic neighbor) expressed his preference for the rubber/steel eyelet one. If I remeber corrrectly the cost was around $60 vs $14 for the cork one.
 
I'm assuming you're talking about a big block.

I've had good luck with FelPro composite high performance pan gasket. Part number 1808

Felpro High Perf. Oil Pan Gasket Set 1808: Advance Auto Parts

19781040_fhp_1808_pri_detl.jpg
 
Pete Kaczmarski said:
My '79 New Yorker needs the oil pan gasket. After ordering the cork one he (mechanic neighbor) expressed his preference for the rubber/steel eyelet one. If I remeber corrrectly the cost was around $60 vs $14 for the cork one.
Click to expand...
I've seen em as much as 25, but no 60 dollar ones. I'll look a little deeper.
1978 NYB said:
I'm assuming you're talking about a big block.

I've had good luck with FelPro composite high performance pan gasket. Part number 1808

Felpro High Perf. Oil Pan Gasket Set 1808: Advance Auto Parts

19781040_fhp_1808_pri_detl.jpg
Click to expand...
Yes Bob, you are correct , bigblock! Sorry for the lack of details. Sometimes I forget to add some details lol. I'll take a ride to advanced tomorrow and take a look at that one . Thanks again!
 
Just curious... I looked up mine and it's 200 in/lb which converts to about 16 ft/lbs.
That's not much..... What spec are you using? Have you had that wrench checked?
 
Big_John said:
Just curious... I looked up mine and it's 200 in/lb which converts to about 16 ft/lbs.
That's not much..... What spec are you using? Have you had that wrench checked?
Click to expand...

I agree with Big John... you shouldn't have trouble with the cork like you're having. I also agree with the others, I like the composite gaskets better.

I can not remember specifically the oil pan on a big block mopar, but if the bolt holes have been pushed into the gasket, just use a smallish ball-peen hammer and knock them back down with the peen side. Transmission pans often needed a quick hammering to seal right and so do many oil pans and valve covers... then the cork will seal instead of cut. I also found out early on that cork gaskets, especially, work better if you torque down in stages. Finger tight, 5+ inlbs, final number but error to the light side, recheck at spec(usually get another 1/4 turn or so). Others may disagree, but I never had a leak again after I started that.
 
furyus 67 said:
I've seen em as much as 25, but no 60 dollar ones. I'll look a little deeper.
Yes Bob, you are correct , bigblock! Sorry for the lack of details. Sometimes I forget to add some details lol. I'll take a ride to advanced tomorrow and take a look at that one . Thanks again!
Click to expand...

You might have to order the gasket. Not a big demand for performance BB Mopar oil pan gaskets to be stocked on store shelves. LOL. You can open the box in the store, look at it, and then return it if you decide it's not for you. Like I said...it worked fine for me.
 
Last edited:
I always take a hammer and dolly to the stamped steel parts to shrink the metal around the holes.
 
Another problem with oil pan gaskets squishing out is setting the torque wrench incorrectly....I've done it myself. My FSM (1978 Chrysler Page 9-2) says oil pan bolts should be tightened to 75 inch/pounds. Then retightened to 200 inch/pounds. Also you might snap off the pan bolts if you over tighten the pan bolts.
 
What everyone else said,using a cork gasket on a pan rail with the bolt holes stretched is a failing plan, You will lose your sanity long before it seals up.

I like Cantflip's idea to sequence the torquing.
 
Big_John said:
Just curious... I looked up mine and it's 200 in/lb which converts to about 16 ft/lbs.
That's not much..... What spec are you using? Have you had that wrench checked?
Click to expand...
My 67 fsm says 15lb.ft . I used a 3/8 drive sweeping style torque wrench . Both the gaskets I used were cork and squished out and distorted terribly so I tightened until the gasket moved just a lil bit.
cantflip said:
I agree with Big John... you shouldn't have trouble with the cork like you're having. I also agree with the others, I like the composite gaskets better.

I can not remember specifically the oil pan on a big block mopar, but if the bolt holes have been pushed into the gasket, just use a smallish ball-peen hammer and knock them back down with the peen side. Transmission pans often needed a quick hammering to seal right and so do many oil pans and valve covers... then the cork will seal instead of cut. I also found out early on that cork gaskets, especially, work better if you torque down in stages. Finger tight, 5+ inlbs, final number but error to the light side, recheck at spec(usually get another 1/4 turn or so). Others may disagree, but I never had a leak again after I started that.
Click to expand...
The multi stage tightening sequence is old habit of mine. I do it on all gasket sealed parts
detmatt said:
I always take a hammer and dolly to the stamped steel parts to shrink the metal around the holes.
Click to expand...
Honestly Matt I think that might do it. I did use a ballpeen hammer and a 2" thick piece of steel that I have dubbed " the anvil" under the oil pan . Probly didn't get it good enough. It is an original 413 Cbody pan.
 
I bought the rubber/steel gasket from Mopar performance for the trans pan and couldn't be happier with it. I couldn't find the same style from mp for the oil pan tho. I'm not beyond spending a lil extra for peace of mind!
 
my GTX does, but Ive never torn apart a c-body (yet lol)

a windage with the gaskets isnt too thick...maybe an 1/8" of an inch at most
 
In my opinion, composite gaskets (rubber/nylon over steel core) are superior in every conceivable way. Thank goodness they are available.
 
celticwarloc said:
In my opinion, composite gaskets (rubber/nylon over steel core) are superior in every conceivable way. Thank goodness they are available.
Click to expand...
I'm very happy with the my trans pan gasket. All of the smaller gaskets on the I made myself and don't leak!!
 
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