Rear wheels not even

so I got underneath the car this weekend and when looking at the bushings one side didn't look any worse than the other. I checked the centering pins and if anything the side that doesn't leave me much room seemed more centered than the other. I did take out a tape measure and measureed from the mounting plate to the front end of the shortest leafspring on bottom and had a 1/2 difference between the two sides. I also measured from center of front wheel to front of rear wheel on each side and there was that 1/2 inch difference again. I want to replace the bushings and see about re-setting the rear, is this a job that can be tackled from laying on your back with the car on jack stands or better off sending to a garage? I don't have airtools yet so I would trying to undo the years road gunk on the threads by hand.
 
It's not a bad job, it's basically "grunt" work, but it's gonna be a PITA without air tools. We can walk you through it if you want to do it yourself. Just be aware that the rear shackles are tough to come by and they need some TLC to take them off in one piece.

I'd also seriously consider buying new springs at this time.
 
As I started looking at this I was thinking of swapping the springs and making this a rear suspension project.
 
What do people use then? I remember a shackle kit I purchased for my mustang 20 years ago to raise the rear and it was basically 2 bars of metal with 3 adjustment holes on each side. this isn't what I want to do but what are peoples options?
 
Sorry to be stubborn or ignorant but none of these would work? I know the spring is 2.5" wide from the FSM, wouldn't I just have to measure the centerline of the pins? Or are these pieces of crap. What is it that I am not considering? How the bolt fits into the bushing? If the bushing fits the leaf spring? The below is from the Eaton Detroit Spring website. true I haven't tested if any are in stock.

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Take a look at your shackles and you'll see why. One leg is offset.
 
That is interesting and I never knew that. Why was this done?

I don't remember if a reason was given, but i assumed it had something to do with designing for a big block. 383s were available in the 67 Barracudas.
 
IMHO, the best way to remove the shackles is to use one of these to split the nuts and not dick around with trying to unscrew them. There a less of a chance of breaking the shackle pins.

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If the shorter pin is bad, I believe (although I've never done it) you can press the pin out of a standard shackle and press that in to the old one. I haven't figured out a good way to fix the long pin yet.
 
I remember having to source a pair of rear shackles off a three hundred when I replaced my springs. The rest of it is just a lot of grunt work...and I didnt have air tools either, but you can still get it done.
 
I looked at it and feel better about doing it. Just need to get the parts, especially the shackles. I looked at them tonight when I got and and could see the offset that was mentioned. Top part measured 4.5" and at the spring was about 3.5". Will do this when I have the $$$$, hopefully in the fall, if not the spring. Thanks for the encouragement.
 
If the rest of your car is in decent shape, I wouldn't worry about buying an extra set of shackles. Split the nuts and you should be good. Even a set of used shackles won't be cheap, so why spend the money on something you may not need?
 
never used a nut splitter before but if others have utilized with success no reason not to do the same.
 
Another way out of replacing the shackles is soak the hell out of them a week before work commences
 
Get yourself a breaker bar also...comes in very handy when trying to remove stuck nuts. I used mine to remove the stuck nuts off the pins/bolts off my springs. After 45 years or so they are not gonna want to come off easily.
 
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