70Tom
Senior Member
Haha. I'll let you know in a few weeks, I hope! (provided my heater core isn't toast and I don't have to buy a new one at $329....)
Convertible Fury - 1970
- Thread starter Jeff
- Start date
70Tom
Senior Member
I've found that if you take a lot of pictures while you're pulling stuff apart and then properly bag and label all nuts, bolts, and screws that you're removing, it's not so bad. Oh, and also get masking tape and label wiring connectors you're pulling from various things. Staying organized is half the battle.
In any event, I totally understand. I was toying with leaving the speedo cluster in and now I'm seriously considering pulling the entire metal dash frame so I can properly clean it, de-rust the back side, and then paint it.
It's really amazing how dirty the interior of these cars can get.
70Tom
Senior Member
Also, this stuff was suggested to me. Not sure if someone earlier in your thread recommended it or it was someone else's thread. In any event, I plan on trying it once I get everything cleaned thoroughly with soap and water and my rust spots neutralized and painted.
Amazon product ASIN B005P0UYDS
Amazon product ASIN B005P0UYDS
70Tom
Senior Member
Jeff, I used a wire wheel on my drill like you did. Then, I bought some of this. Amazon product ASIN B001CRETZW
It converts all rust into metal. In fact, it turns the rust pure black. Works great. From there I put on some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. After that, I'll paint it once I patch the small hole in my floor.
Seeing as the floors are rarely going to be seen, unless you plan on having a top flight show car, i really don't see the point in killing yourself in getting every bit of rust off there vs. the converter.
Here's a pic of the converter at work.
It converts all rust into metal. In fact, it turns the rust pure black. Works great. From there I put on some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. After that, I'll paint it once I patch the small hole in my floor.
Seeing as the floors are rarely going to be seen, unless you plan on having a top flight show car, i really don't see the point in killing yourself in getting every bit of rust off there vs. the converter.
Here's a pic of the converter at work.
70Tom
Senior Member
I've also found the that "cup" style brushes work a bit better than the ones you are using.
Thanks Tom. So many chemical options! I found this study that compared Corroseal to four other types of rust converter. It is interesting that four different acid options are used: gallic, oxalic, tannic, and phosphoric. One of the two tannic options seemed to do the best in that particular test. I'd like to find two products, one to brush on more heavily rusted areas like the floor, that does not require washing after application, and that forms a coat that can be painted directly, and a second one that dries clear that could be brushed on painted areas with specks of intermittent rust. I have quite a lot of that on the inside shell of my car. It would be nice to convert the intermittent specks without covering up the paint. I think the phosphoric acid product I tried is a good candidate for that.
NCPTT | Comparative Study of Commercially Available Rust Converters
(The actual study is available at a link in the article)
NCPTT | Comparative Study of Commercially Available Rust Converters
(The actual study is available at a link in the article)
Fratzog
Old Man with a Hat
You've gone this far. I've only done it once and wouldn't want to do it again but IMHO go for broke and drop the whee and pull the heater box and the pad. Not rocket science just tedious and time consuming. You can also count on some scraped knuckles. So what. Then you will have no regrets and have it done right. Unless you are on some kind of deadline......
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
That is a fantastic link. Thank you.
So... tannic acid it is, eh? Interesting. I had been an Ospho addict.
Fratzog, I generally agree with that sentiment, but I also need to draw a line somewhere. I've already removed far more than I originally intended. I do want to drive it next summer.
On another topic, do the C-body FSMs completely suck or is it just my imagination? I rarely find anything useful in it. Maybe I am spoiled, because the FSM for my 1942 Plymouth is far more helpful.
On another topic, do the C-body FSMs completely suck or is it just my imagination? I rarely find anything useful in it. Maybe I am spoiled, because the FSM for my 1942 Plymouth is far more helpful.
70Tom
Senior Member
They sort of suck. I don't think they made it easy by sticking 4 models into one service manual. I'm guessing the guys the manuals were intended for got more training than the manual itself so the manual isn't as thorough as one would like.
I also agree about dropping the column and removing the dash. Mine is a disaster under there. Once you have the dash pad off, it's really not all that difficult once the column is removed. At least per what I can see and the service manual.
The Factory Service Manuals suck.
Guys are quick to say buy an F'SM but they aren't that clear and in some cases it doesn't work that way. In other cases I don't have the tool they require but this wrench will work just fine.
It has helped me through some things but only as a guide. The net has helped me much more
Guys are quick to say buy an F'SM but they aren't that clear and in some cases it doesn't work that way. In other cases I don't have the tool they require but this wrench will work just fine.
It has helped me through some things but only as a guide. The net has helped me much more
70Tom
Senior Member
Nice. I got myself a couple cans of lacquer paint for the floors and went over the converted rust. Looks good and color matches perfect. It's about $20 a can here in Phoenix. I know it's just getting covered with Dynamat and carpet, but I sleep better at night knowing it's properly painted. Haha.
Did you get the final color in a spray can or did you brush it on? I did a test section with spray, but I think I am going to brush the rest. Yeah, I'm the same way. I want it painted in body color even though I will never see it again.
I need to figure out what to do with pinholes. I thought I only had two holes when I first scraped off the rust, but I really have about 20 on this half of the car. I know the correct way is to MIG weld them, but that is not in the cards because of the cost. I want to do something that will prevent further deterioration and not make it harder for the next guy. I think fiberglass patches make it harder for the next guy and probably invite corrosion. Maybe JB weld or seam sealer? Most holes are a couple of millimeters wide, but there are a couple narrow slits about an inch long.
Speaking of seem sealer, a lot of mine was degraded and came right out, but there are patches that are intact, such as over the transmission hump. The problem is that it seems to be an oil-based substance, and I think it might affect paint adhesion at the boundaries. I'm thinking about removing all of it on the hump, but there will still be transitions in other areas.
I need to figure out what to do with pinholes. I thought I only had two holes when I first scraped off the rust, but I really have about 20 on this half of the car. I know the correct way is to MIG weld them, but that is not in the cards because of the cost. I want to do something that will prevent further deterioration and not make it harder for the next guy. I think fiberglass patches make it harder for the next guy and probably invite corrosion. Maybe JB weld or seam sealer? Most holes are a couple of millimeters wide, but there are a couple narrow slits about an inch long.
Speaking of seem sealer, a lot of mine was degraded and came right out, but there are patches that are intact, such as over the transmission hump. The problem is that it seems to be an oil-based substance, and I think it might affect paint adhesion at the boundaries. I'm thinking about removing all of it on the hump, but there will still be transitions in other areas.
70Tom
Senior Member
Oh, I went with the spray can. Matches perfectly to the original.
Well, I can tell you from experience that if you try MIG welding a lot of those pin holes, you're going to end up with even bigger pin holes. Haha. A lot of times, the metal surrounding the hole is thin/weak and the heat just blows it apart. I have a couple holes through a top layer of metal in my windshield channel (the 2nd layer beneath the top is fine, so there's no hole through, per se.) Rather than completely cut it out and replace with new metal, because the area is still plenty strong, I'm going to go with some JB Weld. It's only a couple spots. So that's what I'm going to try. Seam sealer would most likely work, but I'd rather have something a little more permanent. JB Weld seems to be pretty strong/permanent.
As most of my seam sealer is in tact and pretty strong and had no rust surface rust surrounding it, I'm leaving mine. However, there's a couple spots where I need to re-apply some, which I will do. If I were you, I'd scrape off as much as it as I could and re-apply new sealer. Sounds like yours might have seen better days.
It's a real pisser. The car spent most of its life in a barn in the desert and had almost no rust. Four or five years ago, someone bought it and brought it to SW Washington and left it outside. It was tarped for a while, but the tarp and roof were in fragments when I bought it. Now I get to repair the 4-5 years of neglect. But it is actually a huge leap forward compared to the car I sold in order to buy it. That one had no floor or rockers and no engine or transmission and was missing its rare rear window. It was a super-rare and cool car though!
They aren't the best. From what I've seen, they got worse in the late sixties and into the seventies. They are a good place to start though and I truly believe that everyone here should have a FSM and a parts manual. There are a lot of questions that can be answered with the FSM and quite often, it helps you to ask the right question. With a lot of years available for download from MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals , it makes no sense not to have them.
What a numbskull!Similar threads
