So I want to have a 440 built....

If you are gonna go the stroker route why not go up to a 496 with the 440 source kit? They are the same price. I'm in the same spot here and am looking at stroker kits for my 383 vs. buying a bare 440 block and building that out.

Not to topic jump here - but are there advantages to stroking a 383 up to a 438 vs. a non-stroked 440? They are just about the same displacement... The stroked 383 uses a 440 crank & rods. I thought I heard that the 383's were unique because of their short stroke/quick rev... would you lose some of that advantage? Other considerations here?

My opinion is go with the stock stroke 440 short block, and I'll tell you why.

Better intake manifold selection for the RB engines vs B engines.

Better flowing intake manifolds available because there is more room between the heads to allow for a better runner design with larger radii.

Better bore wear over the long haul with longer piston skirts.

Better airflow with less valve shrouding with the larger bore of the 440.

Cheaper overall for nearly the same displacement.

I would buy this rebuild kit:
Federal Mogul Premium Engine Rebuild Kits CSMHP817-311

Way less than $2300.

Re-use the stock cast crank. Have it ground or polished and its good to 500 horses.

The only advantage I can think of for the 438 stroker are easier header fitment (more room) or if you want to build a "sleeper"

The stock 383 has a rod ratio of 1.88. Nearly the same as the Ford Boss 302 at 1.90. Thats why 383's love to rev, especially since they have the same heads as a 440 so they can rev higher given the same airflow before they run out of steam. The stock 440 is 1.80 rod ratio, which still isnt bad.
 
Here are pics of the heads.

8_matched_ports.jpg


Img_3423.jpg


big_valves.jpg
 
My 383 already has an Eddy intake, an electronic ignition, and an Eddy 750 carb. Building a 438 lets me use those parts again, and helps me keep costs down.
 
My 383 already has an Eddy intake, an electronic ignition, and an Eddy 750 carb. Building a 438 lets me use those parts again, and helps me keep costs down.
The Eddy 750 carb can run on the 440. So you want to spend $2245 on a stroker kit to save $265 on an intake and $100 on a distributor? Doesn't make a lick of sense to me when you were offered a good 440 core for $250 and with about $1200 in machine work and $750 for a rebuild kit and $400 for a new carb and dizzy and you're on the road. I doubt you will get a 438 stroker done for less than 4k but the 440 is definitely doable for less than 4k. Sell the 383 as a runner for a few hundred and your budget looks even better. If you feel like you just have to have a forged crank you can pick up a used original for $250-350 any day of the week. Its your $$$ and your car so do what you want. I just don't get it.
 
Bigger bore, 400/440 unshrouds the valves some, at this level not much advantage. He is using stock iron heads which when very well ported can only support ~470" so going to 500" with stock heads and exhaust manifolds is a lesson in throwing good money away. Stuffing a RB crank into a low deck engine is a neat way to look stock but your not/ sleeper style. Problem is $800-$1000 pistons for a 5500 rpm 400 horsepower engine is expensive and overkill, but hey it's not my money. I have not been able to find a cheap forged or hypereutectic piston for a BB Chevy to make this work. That's about all I've got.

Summed up beautifully. Can't argue with straight forward facts.
 
My 383 already has an Eddy intake, an electronic ignition, and an Eddy 750 carb. Building a 438 lets me use those parts again, and helps me keep costs down.
You should build the stroker 383 and do a thread on here about it who's kit boring, honing, align honing, we want to know it all. Thanks in advance.

Also we want actual readings cc's deck height, to calculate compression ratio none of this guess work.
 
IMHO, after reading through this, it just sounds to me like all you really want/need is a good running 440 engine.

I would have the 440 short block rebuilt. Cam would be the reproduction Mopar Performance P4452783AE, basically a stock cam for a 69 GTX. The cast crank will be fine.

For heads, I would use the 383 heads from the car now. Have your guy go through them and think about hardened valve seats.

Use your Edelbrock carb and find a stock intake manifold.

Figuring that going through the 440 will be the same price as going through the 383, you have 57 more cubic inches for $250.

Keep the 383 short block if it's original to the car.

Sell the heads. They aren't what you want or need for this application.

Sell the Edelbrock intake.

There you go... a good running engine that won't break the bank and will pull harder than the 383.
 
Decisions made. Motorhome 440 will be rebuilt using higher compression pistons and possibly a different camshaft. Will keep cast crank and rods, will have them balance it. The worked over heads from the 383 will be utilized. Unknown what intake manifold I should look for but it has to be one that allows me to use my stock air cleaner. Motor will be disassembled for inspection right after the new year.
 
Decisions made. Motorhome 440 will be rebuilt using higher compression pistons and possibly a different camshaft. Will keep cast crank and rods, will have them balance it. The worked over heads from the 383 will be utilized. Unknown what intake manifold I should look for but it has to be one that allows me to use my stock air cleaner. Motor will be disassembled for inspection right after the new year.
Wasn't that my advice to you right from the beginning?..
Jeezes...
 
A lot of good informative discussion happened Stan, and I learned things as did others. Now, what intake manifold do I buy, and where can I get a new electronic dizzy with a non aggressive advance rate?
Eddy RPM and MSD Pro-Billet. Or even your average MOPAR Performance distributor.
 
I would get a dizzy from Pace performance, drop in and for ~$100 you can have the dizzy and a extra module for your glove box.
 
Back
Top