how does this happen?

jct

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working on fixing one thing and find this a tad bit melted

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Either there's a short in the wiring or the heater motor was drawing too much current.
 
Look at your blower motor resistors and see if there is a lot of corrosion, or if the resistor coils look overheated. repair as necessary.
 
I agree with Big_John on the Heater motor draw. A bad connection can also cause that. High resistance causes high heat.
 
Chrysler blower motors continue to work and sometimes even make a little more noise as they age, but start drawing increasingly large amounts of current that the wiring/connectors can't handle - and you might not even be aware of it. Although replacing the blower motor in a fuselage at least is a bit of a pain since you have to remove the passenger side inner fender, it is worth doing to avoid melted terminals and an eventual problem with the wiring, bulkhead connector, etc. and even an eventual fire (you should be sensitive to a burning plastic smell, and you get a whiff of such, fix it now rather than later). I get the under $50 replacement Bosch replacement motors to power the blower rather than risk using an original motor when restoring my cars (and Bosch because they usually get the inlet fitting right compared to the other options).
 
If you look at the picture he attached you will see the overheating occurred at the position switch to the wiring that goes down to the resistor. That is why I asked him to check the resistor for overheating. I would much rather pull the glove box to check, than pull off the passenger fender well to get at the blower motor. It might just be a bad connection in the switch.
 
it's a slabbie.

cleaned the resistor a lil bit and went to the fuse panel have no idea how it got cruddy, wire bushed it and applied no-ox-id
it's the from the vacuum switch/time delay abd the med fan setting
already took out my old glove box out fell apart into many pieces that was hacked back together.
i have been noticing a good draw on my system when i have the heater on at idle, will check out the blower motor the next chance i can get

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it's a slabbie.

cleaned the resistor a lil bit and went to the fuse panel have no idea how it got cruddy, wire bushed it and applied no-ox-id
it's the from the vacuum switch/time delay abd the med fan setting
already took out my old glove box out fell apart into many pieces that was hacked back together.
i have been noticing a good draw on my system when i have the heater on at idle, will check out the blower motor the next chance i can get
The resistors have overheated. Replace them, and repair the connectors before you do anything with the blower motor. Also check your switch, if there are burn marks replace it also.
 
Chrysler blower motors continue to work and sometimes even make a little more noise as they age, but start drawing increasingly large amounts of current that the wiring/connectors can't handle - and you might not even be aware of it. Although replacing the blower motor in a fuselage at least is a bit of a pain since you have to remove the passenger side inner fender, it is worth doing to avoid melted terminals and an eventual problem with the wiring, bulkhead connector, etc. and even an eventual fire (you should be sensitive to a burning plastic smell, and you get a whiff of such, fix it now rather than later). I get the under $50 replacement Bosch replacement motors to power the blower rather than risk using an original motor when restoring my cars (and Bosch because they usually get the inlet fitting right compared to the other options).

Can you explain where one would find a Bosch blower motor for a 1972 or 1973 Fusie? Do you have a part number or a place online to find the part number?
 
X2......?

I checked and found my former supplier doesn't have any more left. But those blower motors for fusies are also available from 4 seasons and Siemens still. Rock Auto has the 4 seasons, and the Siemens one is available at Autozone. I believe those brands are sufficiently well known that they should be reliable, and would draw far less current than an old, worn original blower motor based on the numerous melted wiring connectors I have seen on so many of these cars. And the hole for the inlet rubber tube seems correct as best I can recall from the photos of each of these units. Check yours with the photos of the new parts to be sure.
 
checked out and tested the blower motor today, it appears to be fine for now
 
What, more specifically, did you check relative to the motor?

So you are concluding that the melted connector etc was just a freak occurrence back in time? Or that corrosion of the connections was the culprit?? Or???
 
just stuck 12 volts to it at the motor, the connectors on it looked fine and not melted.

haven't checked voltage draw yet
 
just stuck 12 volts to it at the motor, the connectors on it looked fine and not melted.

haven't checked voltage draw yet

The connectors on my bad motors looked fine and the motors still spun too. I replaced my motors and the burning plastic smell went away completely and no further problem. Would still like to know if I might be missing something else that could be a problem in the future if you find something else though. When my blower switches fail, the motors just don't work, but they have not led to excessive current draw so far on the ones I have checked. I have only found one blower motor resistor in my life that was bad, and it didn't allow the motor work at all.
 
Since you got it all apart, just go head and replace the motor. It is just one more thing you won't hafta worry about down the road. . .
 
replaced all the electrical pieces that got a bit melted, replaced the blower motor it was a tad small for the rubber seal that was around the old motor. need too replace a vacuum actuator. and i will be golden on my hvac
 
was thinking about adding a relay to the heater side of the switch since that's the one that melted and hot pretty damn hot or should i add it to the "high" setting for the blower motor?
 
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