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Simple solution is to run a wire direct from alternator charge stud to starter relay. Bolt the two connectors at ammeter together. I build the wire around set ups in both 6 and 8 gauge wire which is an improvement over the OEM sizing. If the bulkhead connector is in good shape, leave the OEM...

Put a relay kit on it to take the load off your switch/bulkhead/oem wiring. Light output improves a bunch with relays. Send me a message if you want one of my kits built. It's fixed this issue on a lot of cars.

Sounds reasonable that the actuator is out of commission if the other locks activate from the Dr door switch. Could also be a wiring issue from switch to actuator. Any way to easily hot the actuator. I think those are a reversing polarity style actuator.

Correct, I prefer to have nothing attached to the gauge. Your approach is another way to skin the cat. Many leave the ammeter in line. With the bulkhead wire around, the gauge becomes ineffective. I like any potential fire risk removed. :)

You can run the charge line straight from the alternator to starter relay stud. Leave everything else hooked up as it is, except for the ammeter. I always take the ammeter out by splicing there. The wires running into the car will only pull as much juice as the items inside the car require...

If you don't want your expensive power window switch to look like that one, hit me up. I build relay kits for the power windows. Takes the load off the switch and improves window motor performance. I also started doing Power Top motor relay kits along with the headlight relays. As with most...