Disc brake conversion for '61 Chrysler. Found this

Looks like a goer, now you just need to find a disk brake setup out of a salvage yard or from one parting a 74 or later C-body here to make it happen.
 
Looks like a goer, now you just need to find a disk brake setup out of a salvage yard or from one parting a 74 or later C-body here to make it happen.



Luckily, for me, I found this site while visiting my daughter 40 miles Northeast of Detroit. While there, I found a New Yorker in a pick-a-part salvage yard. I couldn't believe the brake system was still on ththe car as it was pretty picked over. I got the whole setup for $50.00. I was equally surprised that the parts weren't all pitted with rust. They were in great shape.

Now the next thing on the agenda is a modern, dual system brake master cylinder and booster.

Back to the Internet, I guess!!!!!!!
 
I am a little uneasy at seeing the modifications in cross section thickness of the steering arm and also the thorough heating of it to bend it. What does this do to the original metalurgical intregity of that arm? It will probably hold up under even the worst abuse you can throw at it, but I am not so sure. Also, I don't recall the size of the factory wheel on a 1961 Newport like yours - was it 14" or 15", and if the former, will it clear the calipers? If it is a 15" wheel like the 1961 300G, then you would be OK it seems. Others have made disc brake conversions on 300 Letter cars that have 14" wheels and thereby allow the use of the original wheel covers, but as I recall they used aftermarket kits for this purpose. This has been discussed on the Chrysler 300 club websites in the past. But I believe the braking capacity of those systems is diminished significantly under panic braking conditions due to the relatively small size of the rotors. I personally have not yet seen a real good solution to all the problems that this endeavor brings up. I might be inclined to ditch the total contact brakes since they are a pain to keep operating well, and go to the 1963 single wheel cylinder front wheel drum set up but change to a dual master cylinder for added safety compared to single master cylinders. For my 1960 300F, I have converted the system to the use of silicone fluid after changing out every component in the system that has any rubber type parts in it, and it has worked fine for decades now without the need for service. But it has the single master cylinder still, which I would rather not have, but trying to fit a dual master cylinder into the small area where the cross rams take up a lot of room would be challenging. But I have heard some others have been able to do it. But you wouldn't have that problem with your Newport. Just some thoughts....................
 
I am a little uneasy at seeing the modifications in cross section thickness of the steering arm and also the thorough heating of it to bend it. What does this do to the original metalurgical intregity of that arm? It will probably hold up under even the worst abuse you can throw at it, but I am not so sure. Also, I don't recall the size of the factory wheel on a 1961 Newport like yours - was it 14" or 15", and if the former, will it clear the calipers? If it is a 15" wheel like the 1961 300G, then you would be OK it seems. Others have made disc brake conversions on 300 Letter cars that have 14" wheels and thereby allow the use of the original wheel covers, but as I recall they used aftermarket kits for this purpose. This has been discussed on the Chrysler 300 club websites in the past. But I believe the braking capacity of those systems is diminished significantly under panic braking conditions due to the relatively small size of the rotors. I personally have not yet seen a real good solution to all the problems that this endeavor brings up. I might be inclined to ditch the total contact brakes since they are a pain to keep operating well, and go to the 1963 single wheel cylinder front wheel drum set up but change to a dual master cylinder for added safety compared to single master cylinders. For my 1960 300F, I have converted the system to the use of silicone fluid after changing out every component in the system that has any rubber type parts in it, and it has worked fine for decades now without the need for service. But it has the single master cylinder still, which I would rather not have, but trying to fit a dual master cylinder into the small area where the cross rams take up a lot of room would be challenging. But I have heard some others have been able to do it. But you wouldn't have that problem with your Newport. Just some thoughts....................


dual master conversion on 300F


This is a solution an F owner did to convert to dual master cylinder. It was rather painless and cost about $90.00.

I appreciate the input. I'm planning on a lot of touring miles when I get her completed, so I'm looking for safety over originality.
As a 10 year old, on a vacation trip to Myrtle Beach, and after my dad had our '56 Windsor inspected prior to the trip with safety in mind, a brake hose burst as a car was turning left, with a car following it in front of us. My dad's lightning reflexes and diving onto the right, narrow berm while steering with one hand and laying on the horn with the other, averted a nasty outcome. Several hours later we were back on the highway.
I bought, my then 85 year old dad, another '56 Chrysler Windsor 250V for Christmas about 10 years ago. The first thing I did, before I let him drive it, was convert it to a dual master cylinder. Works great.
Never forgot that incident and sure don't want a repeat performance.
 
I can see the obvious benefits of installing disc brakes and dual circuit master cylinders, but I would also be very dubious about grinding, heating and bending any of the steering arms as noted above. Those sorts of modifications would not pass certification over here. Being unable to steer may well be worse than a brake pedal on the floor...
 
I agree with Steve and 60f. I don't think it's such a great idea to hear and bend car iron parts like that. I would think they'd get brittle but I'm no metallurgist. A few panels earlier in that slide show he mentions shortening the tie rod ends. I think that would be the way to go vs. heating and bending. Any decent machine shop could do it for you if you didn't have the means tip clean up the threads afterwards.
 
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