Door Crack Repair

mikedrini

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Hi Guys,

I have this to deal with on the top of the 64 New Yorker's driver side front door. The metal under the door is fine, but I am looking for ideas about how to fix the crack in the plastic panel. I have some PC-7 epoxy, would that work with a little bit of sanding and whatnot?

Thanks!

Preview attachment IMG_20180118_111940598_LL.jpg
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That looks like the paint has cracked and peeled off.

I'm probably a complete dunce as I have ZERO experience with exterior restoration or what these doors were comprised of, but it's rather thick. Was the paint back then that thick? It looks and feels like a plastic panel over the metal.
 
I'm probably a complete dunce as I have ZERO experience with exterior restoration or what these doors were comprised of, but it's rather thick. Was the paint back then that thick? It looks and feels like a plastic panel over the metal.
Yep, that's paint. And if sprayed on thick, it could be that thick. Looks like a lacquer paint.
 
Safe to assume the only thing to do would be to remove and repaint the whole door (especially since I am repainting the whole car)?
Yep, that is correct. Strip everything down to bare metal before painting. I'd put nothing over that existing paint anywhere on the car as it's most likely going to crack elsewhere.
 
Safe to assume the only thing to do would be to remove and repaint the whole door (especially since I am repainting the whole car)?
As that paint is so thick, I'd half consider getting the car media blasted. Any chemical paint stripper or mechanical strip mechanism (sander, bristle disc, etc), would take quite a long time and would be a ton of work. As always, if using a media blaster, find a reputable one so he/she doesn't warp panels.
 
That was a thin coat of Bondo under the paint that came loose because the metal under it started to rust. You will need to strip the door to bare metal, most likely more Bondo will need to be applied over the damaged area before you repaint. Metal must be stripped of all rust and old Bondo or it will not last.

Dave
 
Yep, that's either a thin coat of Bondo or a thick coat of spot putty. Either way, that might be the tip of the iceberg.

Before some of the more modern materials, the method was to apply Bondo directly over bare metal. That was OK, but it didn't stand the test of time. Moisture gets under the Bondo and the metal rusts and the Bondo cracks and lifts of the metal.

The only way to correctly repair is to strip to bare metal and start over. Materials are quite improved and I won't even pretend to tell you what materials need to be used, but basically it's primer, then filler (if needed), more primer and then paint.
 
My first thought was Bondo, would be interesting to chase this and see what it reveals.


Alan
 
I definitely have some bad bondo work over my rear driver side wheel arch. As far as this and repainting my entire car goes, it will probably have to be done in sections since money apparently doesn't grow on trees, who knew? There are a few companies here in NH that specialize in media blasting, so I might take the door to one of them for starters.
 
Thanks Tom and Dave, I am one appreciative novice.

When you get it down to bare metal, be sure to prime the metal with a rust resistant primer that is compatible with the Bondo you are using. These primers are a specialty primer designed for that purpose, if you use the wrong one, bad things happen: either the Bondo will react with the primer and make a big mess or the Bondo will fail to adhere to the primer, both conditions leave you back at square one. Most of the Bondo manufacturers have on line sites that list what products to use where.

Dave
 
I definitely have some bad bondo work over my rear driver side wheel arch. As far as this and repainting my entire car goes, it will probably have to be done in sections since money apparently doesn't grow on trees, who knew? There are a few companies here in NH that specialize in media blasting, so I might take the door to one of them for starters.

You might want to take care of all the body work first and then consider the paint work. Painting the car in sections makes it very difficult to get a good match on all the sections due to different ambient temperatures, different paint batches and different people applying the paint and a host of other factors.

Dave
 
That's exactly what I was going to do. Fortunately there isn't much body work to be done. The car only had 50,000 miles on it when I bought it and the frame is in stellar condition, which is saying something given that it was housed in Boston. The previous owner sprayed the undercarriage with a rust protector and didn't drive it much.

I think I will post the rear wheel arch next to get some opinions on that as well. Thanks Dave.
 
In the ONE foray I got into with a friend on an acquired 1950 Plymouth, in the middle 1970s, he rented a portable sand blaster to strip the orig paint and surface rust with. He got dressed up in the space suit to do the blasting with. Probably had too course of a grit sand, but the resulting metal finish was satiny. Everybody said just put primer on it, so that's what we did. Possibly a little thick of a mixture? So it sat outside to cure and wait for time to put the paint on. After about 2 weeks in the summer, little brown spots came up through the primer. RUST!

Primer is porous and not "sealed" like paint, so moisture will get through it, even from the morning dew or normal humidity changes.

There is a "metal prep" liquid for bare metal. I'd suggest that as an option. The people who grind to bare metal, for spot repairs, then putty or bondo as appropriate, then primer, then paint usually do it all in one day in a reasonably-controlled environment. NOT in segments spaced several days apart.

One of the weekend morning car shows, several years ago, recommended putting some paint into the primer mix, to help it do better.

Many who do paint/body work have their own tricks or what works with what paint, etc. That's part of what you learn doing that stuff. Similarly, each paint manufacturer has their own "system" from primer to top coat. Unless you know different, it might be best to follow the paint manufacturer's "system".

I strongly concur to get the body work done first. Put a coat of paint on it, to keep the lower levels sealed somewhat, then do the final scuff-up and paint when the time is right. Might use the black satin "primer"-look paint and then put the color on top of that? Just be careful of the ultimate build thickness of the total paint on the car. If too thick, cracks and crazes are more prone to happen as it ages.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
In the ONE foray I got into with a friend on an acquired 1950 Plymouth, in the middle 1970s, he rented a portable sand blaster to strip the orig paint and surface rust with. He got dressed up in the space suit to do the blasting with. Probably had too course of a grit sand, but the resulting metal finish was satiny. Everybody said just put primer on it, so that's what we did. Possibly a little thick of a mixture? So it sat outside to cure and wait for time to put the paint on. After about 2 weeks in the summer, little brown spots came up through the primer. RUST!

Primer is porous and not "sealed" like paint, so moisture will get through it, even from the morning dew or normal humidity changes.

There is a "metal prep" liquid for bare metal. I'd suggest that as an option. The people who grind to bare metal, for spot repairs, then putty or bondo as appropriate, then primer, then paint usually do it all in one day in a reasonably-controlled environment. NOT in segments spaced several days apart.

One of the weekend morning car shows, several years ago, recommended putting some paint into the primer mix, to help it do better.

Many who do paint/body work have their own tricks or what works with what paint, etc. That's part of what you learn doing that stuff. Similarly, each paint manufacturer has their own "system" from primer to top coat. Unless you know different, it might be best to follow the paint manufacturer's "system".

I strongly concur to get the body work done first. Put a coat of paint on it, to keep the lower levels sealed somewhat, then do the final scuff-up and paint when the time is right. Might use the black satin "primer"-look paint and then put the color on top of that? Just be careful of the ultimate build thickness of the total paint on the car. If too thick, cracks and crazes are more prone to happen as it ages.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

Stellar advice CBODY, thanks, I am soaking it all in. Over time I have done all of the work on the car myself by purchasing tools, DIY, learning and failing, etc. Thanks again for the advice, the more the better. That's why I love this site.
 
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