Power Window experts

dart4forte

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Working on the power windows on my 65 300 Vert. I had the switches rebuilt and I have new motors to install. I'm working to make sure I have power to the switches and motors which I do except one quarter window. The window I'd halfway down so getting out of the panel will be impossible. Is there a way to manually raise or lower the window.

Also, the power cable for the passenger side quarter window runs under the carpet to the driver side. I also have a driver power seat. The seats are out thus the power cable for the seat is disconnected. Would the power window and the quarter window be on the same circuit?
 
There are self-resetting circuit breakers that sometimes take a while to reset, both in the motors themselves and a bigger one on the drivers side kick panel. The motor ones sometimes kick out when they get hot (due to stiff dirty window tracks and hardware) and can take a long time to close...

There's a main power feed stud for the power windows and seat there too - I am pretty sure they're on the same circuit up to the big circuit breaker on the kick panel and then separate from there.

Check at the kick panel power stud to see if you have power at the stud first then go outward from there. If you don't then the big circuit breaker may be bad or dirty...
 
OK - I was in a hurry and didn't fully read your question. Sorry!

FSM should have a wiring diagram at the end of section 8.

I believe as I said above that the power seat circuit is separate and only draws power from the same stud on the kick panel like the windows.

I you have power to all but the one 1/4 window it sounds like you have a bad wire to that switch somewhere close to it. Pehaps it got pinched under the seat mounts...
 
OK - I was in a hurry and didn't fully read your question. Sorry!

FSM should have a wiring diagram at the end of section 8.

I believe as I said above that the power seat circuit is separate and only draws power from the same stud on the kick panel like the windows.

I you have power to all but the one 1/4 window it sounds like you have a bad wire to that switch somewhere close to it. Pehaps it got pinched under the seat mounts...


Thanks, that gives me a place to continue on. So the breaker can be re-set? I should note all the other motors work. They are just gummed up from age. I'm working at getting them freed up and lubed
 
Thanks, that gives me a place to continue on. So the breaker can be re-set? I should note all the other motors work. They are just gummed up from age. I'm working at getting them freed up and lubed
There isn't a separate circuit breaker for each window. One breaker controls them all.

The power seat will not be on the same circuit.
 
As well on some motors there are internal safety overload protectors tha self reset... that's what I was calling circuit breakers... the main big one is on the kick panel.
 
As well on some motors there are internal safety overload protectors tha self reset... that's what I was calling circuit breakers... the main big one is on the kick panel.
Ahh... I did a little research and there does appear to be a thermal cutoff in series with the motor brushes. I think this is a pre -66 feature, although I could be wrong about that.

That would reset though and I would expect there to be some movement or noise from the window motor before the circuit got hot enough to break the contact.

I guess I'm making an assumption that power to the window motor has been already checked and found there was no power.....
 
Why is it when ever someone talks about electricity in an automobile they NEVER mention to check the grounds in the circuit. On power windows the electrical flow is from the drivers switch, to each individual switch, to the motor, then back to the individual switch, to the drivers switch, to ground. To reverse the direction you reverse the polarity of the flow thru the switches. Check the motor out by jumping it with a battery at the problem window first, or put a meter at the motor plug and test, but remember it reverses in the opposite direction when the switch is moved the other way.
 
Why is it when ever someone talks about electricity in an automobile they NEVER mention to check the grounds in the circuit.
Point taken.

I always assume that people check grounds as part of checking the rest of the circuit. Maybe I need to stop assuming things like this.
 
It is amazing how many people do not check grounds, although they may appear to be in good condition you should frequently remove the ground point, sand paper the areas to bare metal (I then use some di-electric grease on everything) and then re-install. SO many problems can be caused, and solved from grounds.

As for getting your problem motor up or down....just run a couple jump wires from a battery to the PW motor connection....that will get it up or down as needed.
 
It is amazing how many people do not check grounds, although they may appear to be in good condition you should frequently remove the ground point, sand paper the areas to bare metal (I then use some di-electric grease on everything) and then re-install. SO many problems can be caused, and solved from grounds.

As for getting your problem motor up or down....just run a couple jump wires from a battery to the PW motor connection....that will get it up or down as needed.

Yes, I've addressed the grounds
 
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