Pertronix 1381A installation

[NewportTM]

I have a 1381A Pertronix conversion that was given to me. I am a little confused with the wiring instructions. Do I just hook up the + and -, or do I have to go through the ballast resistor? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[My70monaco]

Here you go: http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/pdf/ignitor12vneg.pdf

 

[NewportTM]

Thanks for the info.

 

[300rag]

When I installed mine, I also used one of their coils and bypassed the ballast resistor. I soldered in a piece of #12 wire across the resistor in the block, and then just plugged the terminals in like normal. This allows for a stock look as well as being able to swap in an unmodified resistor and regular coil in a plug and play fashion.

 

[BillGrissom]

The instructions are for the original Ignitor. It requires either the stock coil & ballast or a "resistor coil", i.e. one with equivalent ballast resistance internal, so should measure >2 ohm from coil+ to coil-. If you have an Ignitor II, it can use a low resistance coil, such as an E-core. The Ignitor III is even better w/ multi-spark. I prefer using a Mopar electronic distributor and a GM HEI module, since cheaper. Another way to bypass the ballast is to use a small male-male spade adapter.

 

[NewportTM]

Finally got the pertronix in the Newport. Also used their coil and modified the ballast resistor like suggested above. Having a hard time getting the timing set just right. Occasional backfire through carb on acceleration. What should timing be set at? 383 with 2bbl.

 

[tbm3fan]

Finally got the pertronix in the Newport. Also used their coil and modified the ballast resistor like suggested above. Having a hard time getting the timing set just right. Occasional backfire through carb on acceleration. What should timing be set at? 383 with 2bbl.

This is what I do with my cars. I don't pay too much attention to the timing marks at all on my Fords. One I know what is in my distributors as far as mechanical and springs already. So I disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the can and then hook up a vacuum line to manifold vacuum. After car is warm and idling in the 750 range I move the rpm up to 2000 and set it there. Then I advance the distributor to find the point of highest vacuum. Usually around 21-23mm Hg. Whatever it is I then retard the distributor back 1mm Hg and lock in place. Set idle back to 750, or specs, and then go for a drive. Flat streets, freeway and then some gradual grades Never had a problem with pinging or overheating. If it did ping I would drop it back another 1mm Hg till it stopped.

I recently did this in my Polara which has a Pertronix II. Wasn't happy with the engine at 6, 8 or 10 degrees. So I ran it up to 2000rpm to find the point 1mm Hg below max and then set it there. Didn't pull out the timing light to look.Took it out and it ran great with no problems. Before it always felt as though someone was pushing back against my accelerator.

 

[NewportTM]

Set timing at 10 degree BTDC and it runs like a champ. No hesitations at all. Did not have a vacuum gauge to check that. But will find one in the near future.

 

[detmatt]

When I installed mine, I also used one of their coils and bypassed the ballast resistor. I soldered in a piece of #12 wire across the resistor in the block, and then just plugged the terminals in like normal. This allows for a stock look as well as being able to swap in an unmodified resistor and regular coil in a plug and play fashion.

That's how I did mine and it looks and works great.