1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles

1970FuryConv

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Aug 8, 2014
Messages
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Location
Richmond, VA
I told myself over and over, “No more projects!” …while spending a lot of time looking on the Internet at what was for sale. I came across this 1972 Fury III in Winona Lake, Indiana. I love the gold, the coupe, no vinyl top (and no rust concealed under it), no AC. My willpower cracked and I had to have it. It was for sale for $5000, which I thought was a bit much given the condition. The owner was selling, because he had won the car as an unexpected prize at a charity golf tournament, where he was closest to the hole on number 8. He provided many photos and was good to deal with. We settled on $4000. I considered flying to Indianapolis and driving the car from Indiana to Virginia, but thankfully reason triumphed. I had it shipped to my home by Metrogistics for $745. I thought I’d introduce the car and start a project stream. The 1st set of pictures are after my family helped me wash it.
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I have a lot more pics, but this program only lets me post 10 per thread
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Some trouble spots
Rust at rear of RS front fender. Seller took the rest of these photos, honest of him
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Rust at rear corner LS door
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3 spots where paint is peeling on hood. Repaint is OK, not great
Rust on both bumpers, not rust thru
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A few small rust holes in trunk floor, but overall OK. I since cleaned out all the debris in the trunk weatherstrip valley. Only surface rust there
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Rust at RS rear of trunk
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Also has a big glob of weld metal at the bottom front of both A-pillars
Rear subframe and gas tank look pristine. A big plus. Body issues are not too major.
 
Congratulations! Looks nice. Does it have the 360-2V engine?
Yes, converted to Edelbrock 4 bbl
Depending on whether the engine was rebuilt or just repainted, the car could be a good deal
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The car came with a dead battery, some ground issues, overcharge due to poor voltage regulator ground. I have corrected all that.
Charge wire, As delivered. It would jump start
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With new battery, negative cable, 2 ground wires, and repaired charge wire. It starts OK
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Otherwise engine looks good. Radiator was 1 gallon low, but other fluids OK
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Bit of a rig on the carb. Wire tie throttle cable, kickdown linkage loose at throttle cable bracket, electric choke not connected to anything. Still have some work to do there
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After installing this old clip, I have a kickdown linkage
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My '72 Fury III (a long time ago) came with the 360-2V. That engine has the cam sprocket with the plastic teeth. It won't last much past 100k miles.
 
Interior. The seats and door panels and quarter window panels were upholstered. It's not bad work. It looks like the kind of fabrication that the shops down in Tijuana did when I was in the Marines. We took our cars down there from Camp Pendleton, because we could get a new interior for $300. Problems: door panels not stock, no opening in door panel for remote adjust side mirror, no dome light in new head liner, big cracks in dash pad, headlights blink off and on (may just need switch rebuild)
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Seat belts are black. Don't know why that looks green
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I like the FURY lettering at the center vent delete. Looks a little off-center.
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Like the rear defrost
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Door frames look OK
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Under column panel MIA
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My '72 Fury III (a long time ago) came with the 360-2V. That engine has the cam sprocket with the plastic teeth. It won't last much past 100k miles.
Agree. We were just talking about that:
1972 360 Cam Gear
I really need to determine whether the engine was rebuilt. Have had the car 4 days. Lots to think about.
 
My '72 Fury III (a long time ago) came with the 360-2V. That engine has the cam sprocket with the plastic teeth. It won't last much past 100k miles.
Hi Delta
Edelbrock intake, and carb. If you look at the colors of the water pump and intake vs rest of engine, looks like the timing chain wasn't done when they were. Still that paint might mean a rebuilt engine. Don't have proof yet.
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Congrats! That is a pretty nice looking car:thumbsup:
Looks to me as if the engine was rebuilt and the added the for barrel intake and water pump layer on ad an after thought. The engine looks way too clean for that vintage. Either way just drive it, put the new cam sprocket and chain on when it needs it. Not like it's an interference motor, you'll know when it's starting to go.
 
View attachment 164095 Exposed headlights look great too.
Will you do something about this?
Hi Oliver. I hope the letters are stick on. If they come off easily, I might be able to remove the glue residue with Goo Gone. I’m afraid however, with older woodgrain, that the woodgrain will peel off with the letters. I intend to eventually do something to fix this, just not sure how much work it will be. As a matter of priorities, the letters are fairly far down the list. Priority number one was the charging system. That I’ve cured, and the car has no IOD. Priority number 2 is making the Edelbrock 1406 carb electric choke, throttle linkage, and kick down linkage work, which I’m almost finished doing. Priority number 3 is getting the taillights working. I’m hoping that will be pretty simple. After that, the car has other issues for operation or drivability, while the letters are purely a matter of looks. That said, I’ll get to those letters eventually, and they will go away.
Thanks for the HL encouragement! Ben
 
Hi Gary. I like the car a lot too! I really was bound and and determined not to buy another project, but this car had my name on it. And it was one of those rare instances where the owner is obviously honest and straightforward. I also like the idea of driving the car down to North Carolina. I could bring the door panels and quarter panels with me, which would take care of the delivery issue.

As I told Oliver, I’m dealing with a carburetor that was put on the car and hooked up to fuel, but basically nothing else was done. Once I’ve got that and taillights, I can legally drive the car during the day. For night driving, the headlights are blinking on and off. The system has a short to ground from the bright side of the headlight wiring. I’ve tested all the grounds in the engine compartment and pulled the bulkhead connector to test the wiring for continuity and shorts in the engine compartment. Unfortunately, that’s all good, so the short to ground is either in the headlight switch or under the dash. I’ve also tested the headlight floor dimmer switch and its connector. No problem there. I’m betting on the headlight switch. Anyway, will have to see whether I finished the Fury first or you finish the Nissan first.

I pm'd the owner of the car, regarding the hideaway headlights. Thanks for the nudge there. Will need to see what Troy does. Sounds like he's having a rough time.
 
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