Need help with my GT in Europe

[Plimiff]

Hello!

I am restoring a 71 SFGT here in Estonia, Europe. The Fury is now taken to bits and the body is one big rustball.
So therefore - is here anybody from Europe who could help me with parts? Especially body parts. Any help is needed and appreciated!

Thank you!

 

[Rapidtrans777]

Looks like you got your work cut out for you. What is the rest of the car like?

 

[65sporty]

More pic's please

 

[MarPar]

 

[1978 NYB]

Quite a project you have going there.

Good luck!!!

 

[CBODY67]

Just curious, why is the rh A-pillar a rust-out place on these bodies?

CBODY67

 

[69monaco]

For Sale - 1971 Sport Fury GT E-bay

 

[polara71]

This is why I buy to shine and drive ....good luck with your project

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Just curious, why is the rh A-pillar a rust-out place on these bodies?

CBODY67

This applies to any car, rust around the front and rear window channels are from some roughshod gouging the paint upon glass removal whether by piano wire, hot knife or what ever tools that were used to remove the old glass that cut into the paint. IIRC by FSM or the 3M kit that I used, you need to clean the channel completely and apply the proper 3M special primer before re-installing the glass. If you don't any moisture that gets in there will stay rusting the paint gouges to the metal to no end.

Do it right, take the time, read the FSM, most glass shops guys get paid flat rate per glass so sloppy shortcut jobs abound. Hot knife cut & re-use butyl strip... no, no, no...
Local glass shop near me, you wouldn't believe the number of customers that would come to me with leaking windshields after their visit to them. Son of the owner, (old classmate of mine) saw my spiderweb windshield one night at the local bar and tried to drum up some business reminding me that "It won't cost you anything, INS. pays for it". No thanks, I'll do it myself, 40 bucks, I pull at at junkyard, + what ever the 3M butyl strip kit cost, (already had a can of primer) and a bit of time = job done right.

BTW about insurance pays for it? yep and next year after your windshield claim your rates will go up, believe me I worked at a shop for a short time where there was a big glass replacement scam going on.

 

[CBODY67]

Thanks for the reply and comments. I just remembered seeing a thread in here of where fuselage cars usually rust and that was one of them. My '70 Monaco has a hole near the base of the rh A-pillar. I've owned it since 1975 and it had a factory vinyl roof. Weather took away the vinyl roof, leaving "holes", so I was wondering how enough moisture got into that area to cause such a deal?

I also observed the same things with many windshield replacements, back then. Including the use of "primer" under the sealer. In some cases, it just seems that we're lucky that the cars lasted as long as they did, after seeing how they were configured and built. If we'd tried those things when they were repaired, it would have been "not good".

There was also the common orientation that if the factory windshield seal was compromised, water leaks would happen. I always wondered about why that was, IF it was all done right. Modern sealers are much better than back then. And it seems the professional glass installers know how to make it work best, in modern times. Any "leak warranties" are covered by the glass company and the sealer manufacturer, it seems.

Thanks,
CBODY67

 

[Davea Lux]

Just curious, why is the rh A-pillar a rust-out place on these bodies?

CBODY67

A pillars usually rusted out because the vinyl top started to leak and salt water would get under the vinyl and attack the pillar metal. As soon as the metal got perforated, water and salt would get inside the channel where there was bare metal and things went to hell quickly. Salt would also collect along the seam for the window glass and eventually eat up the metal.
The outer pillar metal under the vinyl was poorly protected, in many cases primer with a light spray of paint, not something that would stop salt corrosion.
The car in the photo above shows a good example of outer metal perforation followed by catastrophic rust out from the inside.
This car saw a lot of salt as the upper part of the door post also appears at the point of failure.

Dave

 

[polara71]

and when there is no vinyl from the factory? They have a habit of doing it then too

 

[Davea Lux]

and when there is no vinyl from the factory? They have a habit of doing it then too

Very true, it just took a little longer. The low spot in the window channel collected salt residue as it was poorly drained. The area between the window edge and the window channel also collected salt residue under the trim strips.


Dave

 

[Wollfen]

If you can supply pics of all the areas that are rusted, then we will know what we have that can help.

 

[FURYGT]

The fuselage cars were know to have poor fitting windshields and back glass from the factory and with the glass being installed with sealant instead of a gasket they were prone to leaking very early in their lives.

 

[Davea Lux]

The fuselage cars were know to have poor fitting windshields and back glass from the factory and with the glass being installed with sealant instead of a gasket they were prone to leaking very early in their lives.

Also very true, most fuselage cars also had a seam leak at the corners of the rear window channel that allowed water to seep into the trunk. Water under the rubber trunk mats often went unobserved and rotted out the trunk floor.

Dave

 

[MarPar]

Also very true, most fuselage cars also had a seam leak at the corners of the rear window channel that allowed water to seep into the trunk. Water under the rubber trunk mats often went unobserved and rotted out the trunk floor.

Dave

The exact same problem I am having right now. My glass guy has been out 3 times and he still cant get the damn thing to stop leaking.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

See wad'I tell ya, FSM (1977) describes exactly how to do it, sounds like someone F'it up from the beginning.

FTW couple of things I left out before, popsicle stick and the black windshield sealer tube.
Correct me if I'm wrong, after removing old glass and prepping 'pinch weld' think that was what the primer was called, pinch weld primer, check, yep but 3M calls it something else now.

It's use, (wear appropriate protection kiddies)

And if you don't do it right, BOOOO!

After the cleaning & prep position glass in pinch weld before installing butyl tape/strip and position properly using any rubber bumper blocks/spacers (you did save those right?) if they were there. Use 4 pieces of masking tape, 2 top 2 bottom to keep the proper alignment so when you lay the glass on the buytl strip as because you ain't gonna be able to shift it around once it hits the strip. Slice masking tape and remove glass to a safe spot, lay the butyl strip down with the seam IIRC at middle bottom of glass, check FSM they tell you were the seam goes, bring your glass back and lay it very carefully on the butyl strip aligning to the masking tapes, press lightly around all edges to firmly seat glass to strip (look for voids). Then load up your caulk gun with the proper sealant for the glass to butyl strip, lay a fairly healthy bead all along the glass edge to butyl strip, then take the popsicle stick and smear/spread all along the glass edge to get it into any voids, (there really shouldn't be any, but on a ancient car who knows what damage has happened to the pinchweld)

*NOW* The important step, as per the FSM or sealant instructions, spray a light mist of garden hose water all along the sealant seam and look for leaks. If you find any take your popsicle stick and smear the sealant around till you have no leaks. IIRC part of the water spay misting with the right windshield sealer is that the light misting of water also helps speed up the cure of the sealant.

Now don't go heavy handed with the sealer in the more must be better attitude, you do want to get the trim back on (and off) easily don'cha?

Take your time & Good luck!

 

[fc7_plumcrazy]

let us know what kind of metal you need despite the a-pillar

Carsten

 

[Plimiff]

Hello!

I would gladly buy a whole new body for it but they don't go around much, do they? Would consider shipping it from the US.
1. Lower Quarter Panel Patch Rear Section (both sides)
2. Front floor pan LH
3. Right floor pan RH
4. Rear floor pan LH
5. Rear floor pan RH
or full cab floor pan
6. Trunk extension pair
7. Trunk floor pan
8. Front fender RH
9. Front Lower Fender Patch Rear
10. Rocker panel assembly (both sides)
11. Inner rocker panel (both sides)
12. Under floor pan main brace
13. Windshield frame (both sides)
14. Upper inner cowl panel
15. Outer and inner side cowl (both sides)
16. A-pillar assembly (both sides)

Thank You!