PS23K8D191537 04/09/1968 W. H. Humphreys

BECAUSE FOR $4200 DOLLARS I SHOULD'NT HAVE TO DO **** BESIDES PAY THE MAN AND BOLT IT IN.

I never did an engine rebuild so I had no idea they wouldn't do the studs. of course they are shot after 50 years and should be part of the standard replacement wore out parts.

and they didn't paint it when they were done. I guess I shoulda told them that too...

my greater point is that if I spent the same $4200 on a crate motor I would have avoided much wailing and gnashing of teeth. and I would have had new exhaust studs. and a painted motor. and whatever else may come up going forward that I don't even know about yet.
 
BECAUSE FOR $4200 DOLLARS I SHOULD'NT HAVE TO DO **** BESIDES PAY THE MAN AND BOLT IT IN.

I never did an engine rebuild so I had no idea they wouldn't do the studs. of course they are shot after 50 years and should be part of the standard replacement wore out parts.

and they didn't paint it when they were done. I guess I shoulda told them that too...

my greater point is that if I spent the same $4200 on a crate motor I would have avoided much wailing and gnashing of teeth. and I would have had new exhaust studs. and a painted motor. and whatever else may come up going forward that I don't even know about yet.

I've been following your thread of dread here, and I can't help but hope yer builder didn't take any such short cuts when he performed the rebuild / machine work on the internals. Like you, I also paid $4200 for a rebuild on my '66 440 engine. However, in addition to the machine and head work, the shop chased all the threads in the block, cleaned up and / or installed new studs, and they painted the engine (with paint I supplied). It was obvious they took pride in their work. BTW, they also arranged for another shop to rebuild my Carter carb and another to do my distributor.

I guess what I'm saying here is: I agree with you. You shoulda got a little more for your money from these guys. . .
 
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BECAUSE FOR $4200 DOLLARS I SHOULD'NT HAVE TO DO **** BESIDES PAY THE MAN AND BOLT IT IN.

I never did an engine rebuild so I had no idea they wouldn't do the studs. of course they are shot after 50 years and should be part of the standard replacement wore out parts.

and they didn't paint it when they were done. I guess I shoulda told them that too...

my greater point is that if I spent the same $4200 on a crate motor I would have avoided much wailing and gnashing of teeth. and I would have had new exhaust studs. and a painted motor. and whatever else may come up going forward that I don't even know about yet.
I've been following your thread of dread here, and I can't help but hope yer builder didn't take any such short cuts when he performed the rebuild / machine work on the internals. Like you, I also paid $4200 for a rebuild on my '66 440 engine. However, in addition to the machine and head work, the shop chased all the threads in the block, cleaned up and / or installed new studs, and they painted the engine (with paint I supplied). It was obvious they took pride in their work. BTW, they also arranged for another shop to rebuild my Carter carb and another to do my distributor.

I guess what I'm saying here is: I agree with you. You shoulda got a little more for your money from these guys. . .
IDK if I'd even fight about free... but it should have been a conversation and and option... Customer service may be their only downfall, but that sort of downfall chases business away.
 
I really don't have time right now to read over the whole thread but didn't this builder get recommended to you? Mab'be you need to kick someone else...

Here's the scenario, if he had done the stud replacement he could be up against someone that would cry as to "ooooh it's not original anymore I wanted to keep it 'concours original' now I may have points deducted at Amelia Island!' he he ha ha

For 4 grand think I'll go back into the business, soon as I get a million $$$ to set up a proper shop. Funny I use to have a co-worker that everybody talk's up that he's a 'Top Engine Builder' with a business on the side. He has no Dyno and no machine tools, he sends all his machine work out and just pretty's up the heads and puts it all together.
To me that's a assembler not builder.

:soapbox:
 
what kind of tolerance should i expect where the center hub of the coverter <> center cavity of flexplate ? i haven't got the dowels stabbed yet the angles and dangles are damn hard to line up and then the center hub hits. should it be a decent amount of PITA to fit this all together? I haven't had my *** kicked quite enough yet it seems.

obligatory photo:
View attachment 256748

o ya i learned something. see the bitty hole in the flexplate. put that OPPOSITE the drain plug on the converter. Mark that corner on the flywheel and converter where u can see it from the inspection cover. and you are in like flynn when ready to bolt the converter to the flexplate.
The center on the converter to the crank isn't a real tight fit, it should have a little clearance. It is close enough I have seen them get rusted in place though. Maybe a thou or two of clearance?
 
stardate 2019-0707-1620

motors swapped. the 383 motor came out of the white car and the 440 went in. have pics but too tired to plug in USB cable will do later.

must degrease muhself then ingest mass quantities of pizza.

- tried not to die

- saylor
 
stardate 2019-0707-1620

motors swapped. the 383 motor came out of the white car and the 440 went in. have pics but too tired to plug in USB cable will do later.

must degrease muhself then ingest mass quantities of pizza.

- tried not to die

- saylor

Great to hear from you, ya crazy bastard!

Patiently waiting on pics
smoking dog.gif


-glad you didnt die
Mario
 
Great to see some real progress - I’ll use this as pressure to make some progress on mine as well. Still no engine built, I just want to get her on the road again.

Congrats!
 
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