Slotted rotors won't make up for poor brake pad friction material. Read the "edge code" and look for frictions with the highest letter codes for best performance.
Early road racers put ducting from the front bumper area to the backside of the backing plates, which had been "ventilated", on drum brake "road racers" of the earlier '60s. So, also having good undercar air circulation can be necessary for best brake cooling performance, solid or slotted rotors.
It seems that many newer ultra-perf vehicles have softer brake rotors than in the past. Or the metallurgy might be similar, but the friction materials are more aggressive. End result, pads AND rotors are needed for EACH brake job. It's claimed that if you did turn the newer rotors, by the time you got 1/2 way through the pad life, you'd need new rotors. End result . . . brake jobs that cost close to $2K! One reason to get a 36K/3 yr lease that covers "brake jobs"! Rather than a "buy it and keep it" orientation.
Last year, we got 4 factory slotted rotors, pad wear sensors, and brake pads for a late model Land Rover (mid-size) in our shop. Our dealer cost from the LR dealer was $1300.00. A 30% markup and labor would put that brake job, for a $40K vehicle, in the $2K territory.
Just some observations,
CBODY67