66 Monaco Wagon A/C Resurrection

[70NEWYORKER]

Why did Chrysler feel they had to overdo the mounting?

Vibration

 

[TxDon]

Teardown is almost complete. I was very lucky, all the a/c fittings came apart with no problems. They all had the original black O-rings inside and so far everything looks pretty clean.

It never fails, I started thinking I would just replace the parts.. then I decided to do a little cleanup and maybe some touchup paint.. then I removed the grille to get more room to work.. then I took off everything on the front of the motor.. now I will be taking off everything loose, cleaning most everything under the hood and detail painting the engine before installing the new a/c stuff. Never fails...

 

[jct]

Before you know it you'll be pulling the engine and doing a complete rebuild

 

[Polara_500]

You "enabled" yourself when you put the plastic sheeting down before you put the car in..........

 

[TxDon]

Before you know it you'll be pulling the engine and doing a complete rebuild

I certainly hope not! If I did that I would have to upgrade it to a 440...

 

[TxDon]

You "enabled" yourself when you put the plastic sheeting down before you put the car in..........

You know me better than I know myself...although this has happened a few times before. If I didn't keep "enabling" myself with car projects I would not only have fewer aches and pains but I would be a rich man!

 

[TxDon]

It was not my original intention but it looks like this has turned into an engine detailing thread before it will get back to being an A/C update one. I have everything stripped off the top and front of the engine, the distributor and alternator will also leave. My next step is to flush out the evaporator and get that messy step done before I start cleaning and degreasing.

 

[LocuMob]

She's got a little grime on her.

 

[jct]

For a few more bolt removed you can change your timing chain, if you haven't done so already.

 

[TxDon]

A few days ago I did the flushing process on the evaporator. I found a big bucket and attached an old heater hose to the larger fitting on the firewall. I used a flush gun setup connected to my air compressor which shot the flush solvent under 100 psi through the coil. As expected this was a very messy process but not due to the gunk inside as there really was none. The problem was my dumb use of duct tape to attach the hose plus a flush gun hose fitting not tightened correctly resulting in a solvent shower! When I got that under control I flushed it both ways and was pleased to see very little dirt and no visible metallic debris. I also flushed the lines I will reuse with similar results. Today I will start the engine cleanup prior to painting.

 

[TxDon]

Question for the experts - my new compressor comes pre charged with Sanden SP15 oil. I have read that I also need to add some oil to the flushed out evaporator and new condenser. Is there a good source to know how much should be added? And did you do that when you did your conversions?

 

[TxDon]

Question for the experts - my new compressor comes pre charged with Sanden SP15 oil. I have read that I also need to add some oil to the flushed out evaporator and new condenser. Is there a good source to know how much should be added? And did you do that when you did your conversions?

Anybody?

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

All the Auto Partz Stores sell the R134 oil Don, and I'm pretty sure it ONLY comez in either 6oz or 8oz size canz? So I'd think that would be your "yard stick", Jer

 

[TxDon]

I'm not talking about the total amount of oil. My compressor comes with oil already in it but here is what Bouchillon says on their condenser install instructions: "When system is flushed clean and dry and you are using a new compressor with oil fill, add 2-3 ounces refrigerant oil to rest of system, usually split between new condenser, evaporator, and new receiver dryer."

 

[TxDon]

Making slow progress, at least de-gunking the engine is done...one of my least favorite jobs. Started by scraping (see large pile on floor) then used Superclean, water rinse, more scraping, brake cleaner, even more scraping, more brake cleaner, finally ready for paint. I used a whole lot of aluminum foil and old sheets to mask then shot it with turquoise. I used the OEM Mopar P412075AB engine paint which was a very close match to the original. Next I will clean and flush the radiator and clean and paint the small parts then I can start putting it back together.

 

[TxDon]

More slow progress. I am working on reassembly, the carb, ignition and alternator plus wiring are on and I have set the compressor in place to contemplate how it will work with my power steering pump. I have what the FSM calls the "1.2" pump with the rubber mounted bracket, the BPE mount instructions keep referring to "Saginaw" pump and bracket but I'm not sure what I have. I'll be doing the actual trial and error fitting later this week. While I had the distributor out I cleaned it up and replaced the points and condenser.

 

[TxDon]

Compressor mounting success! I used the BPE4710 mount kit and followed their detailed instructions regarding spacer placement and it went on very easily, the only deviation was eliminating a washer under the small pump housing bolt. I also had to play with the washer packs between the front bracket, p/s pump bracket and water pump housing passthru, possibly because of my non-Saginaw p/s pump. They did supply washers of two different thicknesses plus I found another thickness in my hardware stash. As others have noted it is a challenge to get at the rear of the long bolt for the final attachment but was doable. In the end it is a good looking and very stable mount set that worked with all my factory a/c alternator and p/s stuff and the original belts fit and line up great, thanks much to Bouchillon. Next will be mounting the new condenser.

 

[LocuMob]

Looks very nice!

 

[Dsertdog]

I agree! Great job!

 

[blue88]

Nice progress...