1965 727 shift cable question/ 1965 key codes

mopar440

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my 65 New Yorker has this cable-style shifter on it, and the trans has the normal kickdown lever /shift position on it. I do not know the history of the engine and transmission, but I know the engine is not the actual original 413.

What am I missing here? Is there a special tranny that works with this style shift cable and shift box? Or am i missing some pieces here? It is column shifted.

Also, does anyone have access to 1965 Chrysler key codes? I don't have the rounded key, if I remember right, you can pull out a cylinder and it's got a key code on it and I can cut the key from that

Thanks in advance for any help!

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I can't see much from your pix, but the three pin neutral safety switch (as opposed to one pin) likely means '67 and later trans as well as the lack of a place for the park cable. 1965 only transmissions are not easy to find, but they are out there.
 
I can't see much from your pix, but the three pin neutral safety switch (as opposed to one pin) likely means '67 and later trans as well as the lack of a place for the park cable. 1965 only transmissions are not easy to find, but they are out there.
I'm still doing research, but it seems that imperial services used to have some type of adapter kit to adapt the 65 to the 66 and later transmissions is that true? Their website doesn't work anymore.

ideally, I'd like to find some type of adapter system cuz the trans is supposed to be rebuilt
 
Imperial Services was a gem once upon a time. Maybe someone else has a way to get you that conversion, because they did exist, although I thought it was only for certain styles i.e. console shift?? Can't remember. Anyway, check this thread for more info... These are stand-up members of FBBO having issues with Imperial Services; Anyone Dealt With Imperial Services
 
I'm still doing research, but it seems that imperial services used to have some type of adapter kit to adapt the 65 to the 66 and later transmissions is that true? Their website doesn't work anymore.

ideally, I'd like to find some type of adapter system cuz the trans is supposed to be rebuilt

Imperial services went to a vendor only sales some time back and deactivated their website. There has not been much communication as to who picked up their parts line, if anybody, they seem to have disappeared from the face of the earth.

Dave
 
Also a work of caution if you plan to install the '65 transmission. Be sure you have an internally balanced engine. If you now have a U-Code 440 with the forged steel crank, it is externally balanced and will not work with the '65 transmission. Latter 440 engines '73 and up have an iron crank that is also externally balanced. That might be why someone installed the later transmission. If you still have a 413, just not the original one, that will not be an issue as 413 engines are internally balanced.

Dave
 
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I'm still doing research, but it seems that imperial services used to have some type of adapter kit to adapt the 65 to the 66 and later transmissions is that true? Their website doesn't work anymore.

ideally, I'd like to find some type of adapter system cuz the trans is supposed to be rebuilt


Rick Allison is the man you need to talk to at A&A. He seems to have all that Imperial Services stuff including replacement cables.

Home - A&A Transmissions

You didn't say whether you have a console or column shift but he has both even though I can't find it on the website. I had one in my hand at Carlisle. The price was somewhere around $200, maybe $175 IIRC.

He also sells the pushbutton conversion but you have to send him your pushbutton unit to be modified, catalog says $495.

Kevin
 
Thanks for all the info

Looks like this Steve guy I've imperial services had a kit that converts a 65 cable to a newer style linkage 727, not sure if it's council or colum only though

Nobody seems to be getting their parts though,anybody have a picture of this thing? I can't believe it be too hard to make? Or use an old b&m cable kit or something

I've also read that the park cable and shift cable move separately s,you have to hook something to move it into park, but I'm not sure yet I'm just starting my research
 
Rick Allison is the man you need to talk to at A&A. He seems to have all that Imperial Services stuff including replacement cables.

Home - A&A Transmissions

You didn't say whether you have a console or column shift but he has both even though I can't find it on the website. I had one in my hand at Carlisle. The price was somewhere around $200, maybe $175 IIRC.

He also sells the pushbutton conversion but you have to send him your pushbutton unit to be modified, catalog says $495.

Kevin
Awesome, I'll try this first, it's a column shift
 
Rick Allison is the man you need to talk to at A&A. He seems to have all that Imperial Services stuff including replacement cables.

Home - A&A Transmissions

You didn't say whether you have a console or column shift but he has both even though I can't find it on the website. I had one in my hand at Carlisle. The price was somewhere around $200, maybe $175 IIRC.

He also sells the pushbutton conversion but you have to send him your pushbutton unit to be modified, catalog says $495.

Kevin
if you had one in your hand, did it look like something the average guy could build or did it look like someone who needs one of them fancy degrees from MIT to build?
 
if you had one in your hand, did it look like something the average guy could build or did it look like someone who needs one of them fancy degrees from MIT to build?

There's nothing special about it except for the specific connection to the column end and whatever it takes to seal that from the elements. The transmission end is a little less complicated. A sturdy bracket to anchor the cable and a new shift lever with the correct radius to match the stroke and detents in the shifter. Also weatherproof.

The cable looked like Morse industrial style, made to last slightly less than forever.

If you had access to all the cable end hardware and the math skills (trigonometry?) to calculate the radius the shift lever needs to have to convert linear distance to the correct rotational distance, no MIT degree needed. Lol.

Kevin
 
There's nothing special about it except for the specific connection to the column end and whatever it takes to seal that from the elements. The transmission end is a little less complicated. A sturdy bracket to anchor the cable and a new shift lever with the correct radius to match the stroke and detents in the shifter. Also weatherproof.

The cable looked like Morse industrial style, made to last slightly less than forever.

If you had access to all the cable end hardware and the math skills (trigonometry?) to calculate the radius the shift lever needs to have to convert linear distance to the correct rotational distance, no MIT degree needed. Lol.

Kevin
I was thinking the kit from b&m or tci, that comes with a cable a,bracket would work, if I could hook it up to the column.
However , the way I understand it, is the shift cable stops at reverse, then the park cable moves. Is this correct? If so, I'd need another lever for park, or some other idea
 
Also, does anyone have access to 1965 Chrysler key codes? I don't have the rounded key, if I remember right, you can pull out a cylinder and it's got a key code on it and I can cut the key from that
I have a few Curtis code books. I'd say look through any literature that came with the car, it was not uncommon for the codes to be handwritten into the owners manual or invoice. In truth, if someone has the ability to cut to code, they also should have the books.

BTW, cut depths changed in the late 60's... but that depends on the key your car uses.
 
Awesome, I'll try this first, it's a column shift

Another solution would be to find a complete steering column from a '66 New Yorker and convert the car to a solid linkage setup. You would probably have to repaint the outer jacket to get the unit the correct color, but the rest of the conversion should be a bolt in.

Dave
 
Rick at A&A got back to me, I ordered the "kit" to do this, he has it. It was AA353 $275

Thanks for the help!
 
Its here, fast shipping!

Looks straight forward, however the valve body has to come out for a lighter detent spring. Does come with a different shift lever. It does appear to delete the park cable, which is what I wanted.

Got the car running ( last tagged in 2001) hoping to be driving by late next week!

IMG_20191024_154759322.jpg
 
Anyone know the right way to remove this boot and replace the cable? It's one year only (1965) and I haven't been able to find any information online

IMG_20191025_154123801.jpg
 
I got it in, I removed that collar, then the metal plate slid down.

Also removed 2 7/16 bolts to remove a guide plate with a stud

You need a needle nose pliers to get at the hair pin clip, it's not easy, then remove old cable.

Fish new cable through boot/plate, and install washer, cable , hair pin (not easy)
 
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