Wyatt convinced me to destroy my 71...

I don't second guess Xenon's knowledge when it comes to this stuff.
When doing the low air pressure test, he had me replace my air hose blower nozzel with a nozzel with a rubber tip, so that there is no damage caused to the metal surface and so that there is a better seal when the air hose test was done. It makes a lot of sense once you see it being done, but little things like this not only helps with my understanding, it also assures me the trans will perform as it should when back together.
 
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I was always taught to do burnouts in low gear as to help keep the shock off the sprag with the application of low/reverse band. Yes, shifting to second before it catches is important also.
Never do burnouts in drive/breakaway as all the shock is directed at the sprag if it hooks.
 
I was always taught to do burnouts in low gear as to help keep the shock off the sprag with the application of low/reverse band. Yes, shifting to second before it catches is important also.
Never do burnouts in drive/breakaway as all the shock is directed at the sprag if it hooks.

That explains all the transmissions I went through when I was 17/18
 
Did you replace all the support bushings during you rebuild. What overhaul kit did you use and did the kick down band come with it. It appears your kick down band is the heavy duty option.
 
When the transmission was apart, the bushing looked fine and we all felt the need to replace them was not necessary. The overhaul kit was purchased though A&A Transmission in Camby, IN, just outside of Indy.
I went with the red clutches and the red racing bands when the ordered was place for the kit, but after Xenon and I had the trans apart, it was evident the transmission must have been rebuilt recently, and the bands looked new. As seen in a previous post, the discs were burnt.
When I placed the order with A&A, the kit I was after would give the feel of the shift when driving the car as it goes through the gears. Not too harsh, but definitely not a real smooth shift.
I want to feel the shift when driving the car, and IMO there'd be no pleasure in driving an HP car that feels like a Sunday driver.
When the kit arrived with the red racing bands, they only had 1 groove, and the kit came with 6 red driving discs and 6 clutch plates. (the factory set up had 5 of each)
The bands that were already in the trans is what went back in cause they did look to be heavy duty, had been replaced recently, and had more grooves for better fluid passage. The single groove red racing bands may have been too much for what I was looking for, and the hard shift in a heavy car probably would wear them out sooner than expected.
The red driving discs and new clutch plates did get used, as was a thicker snap ring (also in the kit) to make everything fit within the recommended tolerances in the FSM.
With luck, it will have the feel I am looking for once back together and on the road.

Also note, if ordering from A&A (maybe other places too) there is a core charge for the bands. When retuning your core, A&A told me if it can't be rebuilt, there's no refund....FYI
 
Stopped over by the powder coating company this morning and liked what I saw.
The pics are just the first coat, with two more to come.
powdercoat1.jpg
powdercoat2.jpg
powdercoat3.jpg
 
Just curious, are they applying multiple coats of the same black powder?
Bob at the powder coater mentioned after the sand blasting, the first bake would allow them to clean up any burrs/welds and then sand for the 2nd bake. The 3rd time is for the finish. As far as I know, all 3 bakes will be done with ti same black satin color.
His shop does alot of car parts and stubs occassionally. He said the Camaro guys always want this done to their cars, but added "they're much smaller and easier to work with".
In any case he and his guys do seem to pay attention to the details and seems to a good guy to work with for this end of the resto.
 
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Bob at the powder coater mentioned after the sand blasting, the first bake would allow them to clean up any burrs/welds and then sand for the 2nd bake. The 3rd time is for the finish. As far as I know, all 3 bakes will be done with ti same black satin color.
His shop does alot of car parts and stubs occassionally. He said the Camaro guys always want this done to their cars, but added "they're much smaller and easier to work with".
In any case he and his guys do seem to pay attention to the details and seems to a good guy to work with for this end of the resto.
From our experience you have to pay attention to detail and prep if applying more than one layer of powder.
 
From our experience you have to pay attention to detail and prep if applying more than one layer of powder.

With all due respect, you have to pay attention to detail regardless of how many layers it gets.

I'd personally be more concerned with over-curing the base coat which can make it brittle, more susceptible to chipping later and contribute to complete delamination eventually. Moreover, on large pieces like a frame, thinner sections will heat up faster and present challenges on heating uniformity.

Most shops just shoot a single base coat of epoxy primer on steel (and sand it out) rather than multiple layers of color.

I truly hope the O.P. gets the results he seeks.
 
The stub frame was delivered today, and am pleased with the results. I didn't mention in the previous post but they did apply primer to the frame before it went into the oven.
stubframe undercoated del 12_10_19.jpg
 
With all due respect, you have to pay attention to detail regardless of how many layers it gets.
Agreed. Attention to detail and prep is the key to a good job whether powder or liquid paint.

Where it work we've taken to applying a zinc rich primer before color powder for all steel pieces that will be exposed to the elements.
 
Wow. I just read this thread from start to finish. Way to go guys. I gotta get over there and see this thing soon.
 
Last week the valve body for my NYer was done, but didn't get any pics to speak of. This weekend Wyatt had the classroom time with Xenon, showing him the "how to's", and rebuilt his 727 valve body at the shop. Are we havin fun yet?
After thoroughly cleaning all the moving parts, the reassembly will begin.
Xenon's patience with the both of us and availability to take the time to show us the steps for the rebuild is greatly appreciated.
Pssst…Wyatt...X-mas is around the corner. (for er...uh..:poke:for the teacher)
Trans 6.jpg
Trans 5.jpg
Trans 2.jpg
Trans 4.jpg
Trans 7.jpg
Trans 3.jpg
 
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