70NEWYORKER
Well-Known Member
The stem on that metering valve must be pulled OUT to open, not pressed in.
front brakes won't bleed
- Thread starter cuda hunter
- Start date
This is the pv I have. BWS/MV,right?
I don't have a factory service manual, yet.
Took the pic from another thread.
I don't have a factory service manual, yet.
Took the pic from another thread.
Looks as if it push's in.
70NEWYORKER
Well-Known Member
Thank you. I sure need that book.
Ok, so out it is. And it specifically mentions the lock out while bleeding.
Ok, so out it is. And it specifically mentions the lock out while bleeding.
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
Now to get that special tool!
Well, yes and no. I need this thing to move so I will try to figure out something to pull it out and hold it out for the bleed time.
I'm hoping that the issue was all caused by the leaking top cover of the M/C and after bleeding the system the check valve will function as it's supposed to.
Hopefully.
I'm hoping that the issue was all caused by the leaking top cover of the M/C and after bleeding the system the check valve will function as it's supposed to.
Hopefully.
Ok, purged the M/C. Opened the check valve. Opened a bleeder for a while. NO fluid.
Open the drivers bleeder. For a while. No fluid.
Close the check valve.
Open both bleeders. No fluid.
I tried running the car and the car off.
I pumped the brakes with the car on and off.
When the car is off, the brakes are very firm. I assume I am feeling the rear drums of which have been gravity bled.
Am I going to have to power bleed the system? Maybe to get through the PV? I am alone and can not power bleed. I've always gravity bled. Will gravity not work with this situation?
Open the drivers bleeder. For a while. No fluid.
Close the check valve.
Open both bleeders. No fluid.
I tried running the car and the car off.
I pumped the brakes with the car on and off.
When the car is off, the brakes are very firm. I assume I am feeling the rear drums of which have been gravity bled.
Am I going to have to power bleed the system? Maybe to get through the PV? I am alone and can not power bleed. I've always gravity bled. Will gravity not work with this situation?
Typical brakes. Driving me nuts. Should be simple.
No, not new yet.
I'll separate the line above the rubber where the metal line meets the rubber.
If it is the rubber line blocking fluid I should get drips above the line then.
I'll separate the line above the rubber where the metal line meets the rubber.
If it is the rubber line blocking fluid I should get drips above the line then.
Yes, I bet that's what going on
Nope. No fluid coming out of the line either with exception of turning it on, pushing on the brakes and getting spatter.
Sounds like I have to power bleed these regardless?
Sounds like I have to power bleed these regardless?
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
I'm late to the "party" here, just to throw this out there, one time I lost my brake pedal on my '71 Polara, due to a bad master cylinder. Replaced the master cylinder, had the same problem you are having, nothing coming out the front. Asked an A body guy I know, he told me to push that little dick in (I believe he called it a reset button). He said it comes out when it senses something wrong with the system (which there was), worked for me! Best of luck!
Thanks for the thought. We discussed the little dick earlier in the thread.
You are the first to state that when the check valve has done it's thing, it's out of the Brake Warning Switch/Metering Valve BWS/MV.
So it if's doing it's thing correctly, it is towards the inward position.
You are the first to state that when the check valve has done it's thing, it's out of the Brake Warning Switch/Metering Valve BWS/MV.
So it if's doing it's thing correctly, it is towards the inward position.
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
You mentioned your brake light was on right? I think your problem is here. As I recall, the little dick is always at around that distance, it may just need to be pushed in and allowed to pop back out. Maybe try the moderate force method outlined above?
I have tried in and out with no change.
I'm going to try power bleeding it when I can get someone to sit in the drivers seat.
After that, throw parts at it?
1. rubber brake lines
2. BWS/MV
3. rebuild/replace Master Cylinder
4. rebuild/replace power booster
I'm going to try power bleeding it when I can get someone to sit in the drivers seat.
After that, throw parts at it?
1. rubber brake lines
2. BWS/MV
3. rebuild/replace Master Cylinder
4. rebuild/replace power booster
Has anyone mentioned internally collapsed front rubber hoses??
Yes, thanks for the suggestion. I can't get any fluid down to the hoses.
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