Oil filter question

In my years of gluing crap together bonding like materials always seems to work better.
So paper glued to steel is better than paper glued to cardboard? As for relief valves yes if it opens early and bypasses that not great for cleanliness. If it opens at a high pressure that's not great either, low oil pressure after filter.
The real question is why are you letting your oil get that dirty?
I love the overthinkers. Just change your oil regularly with a new filter of any brand and your life will be fine, steel ends and high pressure reliefs are good in advertising but mean nothing in the day to day world.
 
Your right Stan.... I don't know why I get sucked into responding to a question where the OP, (and others), question the facts with their own theory's.
 
Your right Stan.... I don't know why I get sucked into responding to a question where the OP, (and others), question the facts with their own theory's.
You know Will, we all have our theories and we all have experience with what works and what doesn't.

We all have our favorite brands... and I can't justify most of my choices. If I have a choice between Autolite and Champion, I'll reach for the Autolite every time.

Use what works for you... Simple as that.
 
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FWIW I tried K & N filters for a year, and had to keep priming the damned pump to get it to start working after changing them. Want to Wix/Napa Gold filters, and NO MORE of that ****! I suspect keeping the oil viscosity at 10W-30 Motorcraft for diesel engines has helped quite a bit too. (Their ZDDP is still ~1200 ppm) My crank case oil looks like what we cook with, and will continue to for the next couple months. When it starts looking like what I fried catfish in the night before, I'll change it.
 
[QUOTE="Big_John,
We all have our favorite brands... and I can't justify most of my choices. If I have a choice between Autolite and Champion, I'll reach for the Autolite every time.

Use what works for you... Simple as that.[/QUOTE]

Your absolutely right John.... Most all brand name products will do the job we expect them to do..... My choice between autolite and champion is always champion, at least in a Mopar. Goes to show ya...... :poke:
 
[QUOTE="Big_John,
We all have our favorite brands... and I can't justify most of my choices. If I have a choice between Autolite and Champion, I'll reach for the Autolite every time.

Use what works for you... Simple as that.

Your absolutely right John.... Most all brand name products will do the job we expect them to do..... My choice between autolite and champion is always champion, at least in a Mopar. Goes to show ya...... :poke:[/QUOTE]

Funny thing about Autolite vs. Champion plugs: Back in the sixties, my buddy Ronnie had a '63 Dodge Super Stocker - aluminum front end and all the SS goodies. Engine was a 426 wedge with 13.5 : 1 compression, two staggered Carter 3447 four barrels, Dougers by Head, etc.

The Champion salesman who frequented the shop where Ronnie worked convinced him to try a set of Champions to see if they would work better than the Autolites Ronnie was using. We took the car to Aquasco drag strip in southern Maryland, installed the Champions and made two runs. The engine ran crappy on the first run and crappier on the second run. Ronnie re-installed the old Autolites which had at least a dozen runs on them. Engine ran great. I have run Autolites ever since. . .
 
Your absolutely right John.... Most all brand name products will do the job we expect them to do..... My choice between autolite and champion is always champion, at least in a Mopar. Goes to show ya...... :poke:

my buddy Ronnie had a '63 Dodge Super Stocker - aluminum front end and all the SS goodies. Engine was a 426 wedge with 13.5 : 1 compression, two staggered Carter 3447 four barrels, Dougers by Head, etc.

The Champion salesman who frequented the shop where Ronnie worked convinced him to try a set of Champions to see if they would work better than the Autolites Ronnie was using. We took the car to Aquasco drag strip in southern Maryland, installed the Champions and made two runs. The engine ran crappy on the first run and crappier on the second run. Ronnie re-installed the old Autolites which had at least a dozen runs on them. Engine ran great. I have run Autolites ever since. . .[/QUOTE]

OH...... yeah Rip. There's your regular, everyday driver. :poke:Bad example.
Most folks who have ever been around a Max Wedge, or a street/race Hemi, know that a simple spark plug change from heat range to heat range, or brand to brand know there's more to it than just the plug change. Think carb adjustment, valve timing and valve lash adjustments. That's why some ran better than others.
:rolleyes:
 
I'm with you Rip, those lawnmower plugs are best left in the Briggs. That company has been passed around like a $2 *****, and it shows
 
my buddy Ronnie had a '63 Dodge Super Stocker - aluminum front end and all the SS goodies. Engine was a 426 wedge with 13.5 : 1 compression, two staggered Carter 3447 four barrels, Dougers by Head, etc.

The Champion salesman who frequented the shop where Ronnie worked convinced him to try a set of Champions to see if they would work better than the Autolites Ronnie was using. We took the car to Aquasco drag strip in southern Maryland, installed the Champions and made two runs. The engine ran crappy on the first run and crappier on the second run. Ronnie re-installed the old Autolites which had at least a dozen runs on them. Engine ran great. I have run Autolites ever since. . .

OH...... yeah Rip. There's your regular, everyday driver. :poke:Bad example.
Most folks who have ever been around a Max Wedge, or a street/race Hemi, know that a simple spark plug change from heat range to heat range, or brand to brand know there's more to it than just the plug change. Think carb adjustment, valve timing and valve lash adjustments. That's why some ran better than others.
:rolleyes:[/QUOTE]

I dropped the modern Champions last summer, having scored some NOS J-11Y plugs absurdly cheap. Ran a little hot for my liking, so I scored J-13s for WAY LESS, (nobody wants these?) this past February, which are specified in the FSM, and sure enough, NO MORE PINGING AT SPEC ADVANCE 12.5 DEGREES!!!

I ran Autolite 85s a couple times a few yrs back. They did pretty much the same as the Champion J12YCs from Rock Auto, requiring me to retard the advance down to about 10 degrees to avoid pre-ignition pings.

I suspect adhering to Mopar specs as closely as possible might be the best thing to do. IFF I was running a big 4 barrel carb, with a "fat" cam, bigger valves, headers, and cooling system to match, then I suspect the old J-10s specified for cop cars, cabs, ambulances and such would be the thing. OR, equivalent plugs from other makers. I've also run Bosch platinum plugs one year, before committing to Champion as my first choice. So long as I can get NOS J-13Ys for no more than it cost for new stuff, I'm gonna roll with that.

To be sure, while I praise the RELATIVE simplicity of these excellent old machines, they're still hardly simple. With use accumulates wear, and as these machines wear in, they run best with all parts in harmony with regular upkeep on whatever brand parts used to produce the desired output. Radical change from such parts will certainly strain systems previously worn according to other parts, fuels, oils, coolants and with such strain changes one should be doubly alert to failures and breakdowns.
 
I keep an eye out on ebay for NOS Champ J10's, J12's and J13's. Have a pretty good stock. I don't use the modern suppressor plugs in the old cars.
 
No resistive suppressors, and copper plug wires to keep the resistance as low as practically possible all makes for good firing even with the venerable Kettering ignition. The only electrical thing that ever troubled me consistently back in 05 when I drove my FIRST C body, the 66 NYer, was the electronic ignition. It had an orange box w a big Accel coil rated for like 80 kV, but it never worked right.
 
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