Best Oil for '68 440's...

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I'm sure this has been talked about before. But I'm curious as to what is the most-preferred oil out there for our original Chrysler Big Blocks. I'm talking about the '60s era engines out there with original heads and all. I was leaning towards something like Valvoline VR-1 10W40. Is there any other oil or fuel additives you all recommend?
 
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Hey... I'm just trying to make sure I'm up with the latest knowledge on this subject. It's been awhile since I sold my last C-Body, but I just got myself an old '68 Imperial and want to keep it running right. I went back like 10 pages on this subject and couldn't find anything about oil choices. So, I'm sorry if it looks like I'm beating a dead horse...
 
Hey... I'm just trying to make sure I'm up with the latest knowledge on this subject. It's been awhile since I sold my last C-Body, but I just got myself an old '68 Imperial and want to keep it running right. I went back like 10 pages on this subject and couldn't find anything about oil choices. So, I'm sorry if it looks like I'm beating a dead horse...

I hear ya. . . I use Penn Grade 15W-40 in my '66 300 440s. Quality oil with high ZDDP content needed for flat tappet cams. You can get it from Summit.
 
For my original 383hp I use 10-30, nothing special, STP sells an additive that contains ZDDP, small blue bottle @ O'rileys for $4.00 +, I also add 1 qt of Lucas oil additive . gets me down the road for the season and next spring do it over.
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Here’s a little unknown fact.

Use a “diesel engine oil” Rotella etc. It’s the same as “non diesel oil” except it has a higher zinc and higher detergent properties, which is what you likely are after,.... and as a bonus it’s cheaper than “standard” oil.

And if that isn’t enough add 1 pint of STP and you are covered.

My costs are about $23 for 5 quarts of Rotella, STP, and filter.

Triple win!!!
 
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Yes, this subject does seem to come up on a regular basis, but I don't mind--I like talking about oil!! I use Valvoline VR-1 10W30 conventional. I hear that "Driven" oil is good as well. I don't particularly like trying to make a concoction of additives, I let the oil company do all the chemistry!! One exception is that I will occasionally use a quart of heavier weight oil or something like STP because my engine does have a lot of miles and smokes a little. Here's a question that's been on my mind. I bought a case of 30 weight oil for my lawn tractor which meets the latest automotive specs and contains zinc. Wouldn't this work well in these engines?? I kind of also agree with the diesel oil theory. Diesel engines demand much more of their lubricating oil so it only stands to reason that it's a pretty durable oil. However, for me personally I would be more inclined to use auto diesel oil rather than oil made for a heavy truck.
 
Like Fury Pursuit above, I used to use Chevron Delo diesel oil for its high zinc content in the form of the ZDDP addititve.

However, diesels are now required to also meet very stringent emission standards like gasoline engines and to do so they employ catalyzed particulate filters and nitrogen oxide adsorbers that are intended to last for much more than 100K miles of operation. When diesel emission controls such as particulate filters and nitrogen oxide adsorbers degenerate, that triggers the OBD II lights on these newer diesel vehicles that require maintenance. As such, ZDDP is being reduced in these diesel oils to prevent ash buildup and it might be wise to check the specs on these such oils to make sure they are still in the range you desire anymore. My evaluation of recent Delo containers show a reduction in ZDDP compared to older such diesel oils. They are now at a level that doesn't satisfy me.

As a result I have resorted to the use of Valvoline Racing oil that is marketed as VR1. Because I live in a state that is mostly high temperatures above freezing all the time, I use the 20-50 grade that is widely available at high but more reasonable prices of other brands of such oil and this oil carries the trusted Valvoline name I have come to rely on for best results. It is available at Autozone and NAPA and Oreilly Auto Parts stores. If you live in areas where temperatures regularly fall below freezing, you might want to consider the 10-30 grade, which are the only two grades of that oil that I have seen.

The detergent level of these oils isn't best for a lot of stop and go city driving and cold or humid climates in order to reduce deposit buildup of these oils compared to more standard types, so use the VR1 mostly in cars that are used on the open road primarily and a minimum of repeat cold starts and traffic in cold climates.

I have come to trust Valvoline over many decades now and will continue to do so for best results.
 
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Like Fury Pursuit above, I used to use Chevron Delo diesel oil for it high zinc content in the form of the ZDDP addititve.

However, diesels are now required to also meet very stringent emission standards like gasoline engines and to do so they employ catalyzed particulate filters and nitrogen oxide adsorbers that are intended to last for 100K miles of operation. When diesel emission controls such as particulate filters and Nox adsorbers degenerate, that triggers the OBD II lights on these newer diesel vehicles that require maintenance. As such, ZDDP is being reduced in these diesel oils to prevent ash buildup and it might be wise to check the specs on these such oils to make sure they are still in the range you desire anymore. My evaluation of recent Delo containers show a reduction in ZDDP compared to older such diesel oils. They are now at a level that doesn't satisfy me.

As a result I have resorted to the use of Valvoline Racing oil that is marketed as VR1. Because I live in a state that is mostly high temperatures above freezing all the time, I use the 20-50 grade that is widely available at high but more reasonable prices of other brands of such oil and this oil carries the trusted Valvoline name I have come to rely on for best results. It is available at Autozone and NAPA and Oreilly Auto Parts stores. If you live in areas where temperatures regularly fall below freezing, you might want to consider the 10-30 grade, which are the only two grades of that oil that I have seen.

The detergent level of these oils isn't best for a lot of stop and go city driving and cold or humid climates in order to reduce deposit buildup of these oils compared to more standard types, so use the VR1 mostly in cars that are used on the open road primarily and a minimum of repeat cold starts and traffic in cold climates.

I have come to trust Valvoline over many decades now and will continue to do so for best results.

Still lots of zinc and phosphorus in Rotella T4 in 10w30.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/rotella-t4-10w30-voa.333855/

Most of the diesel oils are still over 1000 ppm, most around 1100+

Kevin
 
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Valvoline VR-1, Driven racing oil, Penn grade Are all great.

Buy the oil made for the job, forget the ZDDP additives in off the shelf Modern motor oil. It has too much detergent and it fights your additive.

many oil tests test the oil, then when thy put in the additive in the same oil the lube qualities go down!
 
Still lots of zinc and phosphorus in Rotella T4 in 10w30.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/rotella-t4-10w30-voa.333855/

Most of the diesel oils are still over 1000 ppm, most around 1100+

Kevin

That holds true for most diesel oils. I use the Petroleum Quality Institute of America, PQIA.org for my data. I run Motorcraft Super Duty Diesel Motor Oil 10W-30, which has 1206 ppm zinc, and is one of the best diesel engine oils for old V-8s. According to the PQIA, Rotella T4, 15W-40 comes in around 1100. I used to run Rotella T5.

A good rule of thumb: the stuff with warnings about catalytic converters is what we want for high zinc!
 
As for the viscosity, we either ran straight 30 year round, then 10W-30, and later possibly 10W-40. This is in N TX, so it's not usually as cold as in the norther regions.

When I got my '70 DH43N, I started out with what the dealer put in it when they changed the oil for their used car checkout. Then, after chasing a "4500rpm surge" that would not go away and wanting something better, I settled on Castrol GTX 20W-50, which many people called "motorcycle oil" in 1975 (as that was usually what it went it). I figured that if it could stand up to autobahn speeds in a smaller, Euro-sized engine at higher rpms, it should do just fine in a larger American V-8 with more generous bearing sizes and lower rpms. AND, that surge went away after that change, too.

To me, I feel that the oil companies can blend a really good oil (base stocks and additives), but you might have to look a bit to find it), which is why I regularly monitor www.bobistheoilguy.com forums, where some PQIA results are also posted. BTAIM

I recently found some Castrol black-bottle Edge that is NOT Dexos approved (key thing these days) AND has the "SL" rating, which means right at 1000ppm of zddp in it. I also went to Rotella T6 5W-40 in my '77 Camaro. Key things: readily available everywhere, decent pricing, and a good syn oil still with over 1200ppm of zddp in its latest blends.

When I got the Camaro, after the 3000 break-in period, I put 20W-50 GTX in it and the oil comsumption went down to 1/2 qt per 4000 oil changes. When I did the cam, timing chain, and intake upgrade at 92K miles, I (as others) was startled at how clean the lifter valley was. The only accumulation of "gray stuff" was in the small recesses where it could settle out and was liquid enough to remove with a fingertip. Plus, very few deposits on the bottom of the heat crossover shield on the bottom of the intake, which also amazed those used to seeing what other brands normally put there. In other words, it was danged clean inside, which made me smile!

As noted, adding lots of zddp to a detergent oil can compromize the detergency additives. Seems like there is one Joe Gibbs Racing oil that has 3000ppm of zddp in it? But that oil is meant more for a 500 mile race than a 4000mile street-use oil change, I suspect. So you can get too much of a good thing!

One other issue is that there are other anti-wear components in motor oil than just zddp and the base stock oils. So zddp is not the only guide in that respect . . . at least that's what some claim. 1000ppm of zddp in a syn oil is fine, but a dino oil needs more like 1200-1400ppm (as some of the normal Rotella diesel oils have in the . . . NOT the recent "gas truck" oils which are Dexos-compliant).

The oil of your choice, viscosity of your choice, with a quality OEM-level oil filter (Motorcraft in my case as they are available at a good price, FL-1A for the long filter), changed about every 4000 miles (the old Chrysler oil change spec, when the cars were new, with the 5/50 warranty) should work fine without breaking the bank.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
10w30 is winter oil. I'm not sure how many of you are driving in 20-30 degree temps regularly, but kudos to you for using the car as it should be. All of us drive during the warm weather of summer. Big V8s have a lot of interior surface area and oil is part of the cooling system. Our cars do not have a oil cooler except in police or some other circumstances. The oil receives a lot of heat and needs the viscosity to maintain a hydro-dynamic wedge in engines that even initially did not have tight or very consistent clearances and that has not gotten better in ~50 years (unless completely rebuilt). If all you do with the car is all short trips (5 mi. or less) I can see using lighter oil. Diesel oils are designed with long hard use in mind with a lot of contamination. While our cars may not have to pull heavy loads uphill, contamination is a concern.
 
10w30 is winter oil. I'm not sure how many of you are driving in 20-30 degree temps regularly, but kudos to you for using the car as it should be. All of us drive during the warm weather of summer. Big V8s have a lot of interior surface area and oil is part of the cooling system. Our cars do not have a oil cooler except in police or some other circumstances. The oil receives a lot of heat and needs the viscosity to maintain a hydro-dynamic wedge in engines that even initially did not have tight or very consistent clearances and that has not gotten better in ~50 years (unless completely rebuilt). If all you do with the car is all short trips (5 mi. or less) I can see using lighter oil. Diesel oils are designed with long hard use in mind with a lot of contamination. While our cars may not have to pull heavy loads uphill, contamination is a concern.

Ok, Dave. . . So what kind of oil do you use?
 
I actually run straight 40w Penn Grade.
 
I've run pretty much straight weight Valvoline Racing Oil in my Mopars back in the day, first 30w then 40w as my right foot was getting bigger, then down to 10w30 when the overnight temperature would fall below 35°f as per the owners manual. Heck in my 1968 Fury III DD when the oil consumption was getting too over a quart per tank of gas I started tossing in 60w Valvoline Racing Oil from my stock of Harley oil.

Castrol 20w50 was used in the Crown Vic cabs 302ci engines, not my choice, owner of company supplied the oil & filters after I got too the cars from a constant engine light coming on problem from bargain gas station oil changes that carbon'd up the oil clogging the pickup screen. Try'd to keep the owner on a 3,000 mile/30 day change regimen, sometimes they would go over depending on how flush he was for cash, ie bar tab, scratch tickets tally, state tax agents coming for a visit... LOL
Seemed to work OK for oil, used it in my Honda Bikes.

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