SUMP CLEARANCE

[69PHOENIX]

Hi Fellas,
Thinking of running a 7 Pt Deep Engine Sump (Trans Deep Sump Also) in a 69 Plymouth Fury / Dodge Phoenix Sedan, But wondering about Ground Clearance. With the Prevalence of Parking Lot Humps Now a Days, I'm a Little Concerned about the Necessity of having to Fit Sump Protectors. A Friend suggested Spacing the Engine Mounts But I'm Planning on Running a Gear Vendors and Clearances are Liable to be a Bit Tight Already.
Anybody had Experience? Anybody got Advice. As Always T.I.A.
Regards Tony.M

 

[detmatt]

Just curious, why do you feel you need to run these deep sump pans? And are you saying you had a friend actually suggest to raise the engine in order to be able to use them?

 

[CBODY67]

Unbeknownst to many, the angles between the engine/trans, driveshaft, and rear axle are VERY important as to smooooth and reliable operation of the powertrain (including universal joints!) on the road. Best to not vary them at all, other than to replace failed/weak mounts with new OEM-spec ones.

When the first wave of lifted minitrucks was around in the 1980s, it was not uncommon to see some on the side of the road with a driveshaft dangling from the transfer case. Not a good thing to have happen with one's spouse/date!

Remember that with the deeper pans, you'll also need appropriately matched pickup tubes too!

If you might be chasing a "heat" situation, might it be better to swap to a syn fluid for better heat tolerance and also seek to decrease the heat issue at its origination? Just curious.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[69 300 vert]

Hi Fellas,
Thinking of running a 7 Pt Deep Engine Sump (Trans Deep Sump Also) in a 69 Plymouth Fury / Dodge Phoenix Sedan, But wondering about Ground Clearance. With the Prevalence of Parking Lot Humps Now a Days, I'm a Little Concerned about the Necessity of having to Fit Sump Protectors. A Friend suggested Spacing the Engine Mounts But I'm Planning on Running a Gear Vendors and Clearances are Liable to be a Bit Tight Already.
Anybody had Experience? Anybody got Advice. As Always T.I.A.
Regards Tony.M

For a short time I ran a Moroso 8 qt pan on my Fury, NEVER again.

 

[BigblueC]

For a short time I ran a Moroso 8 qt pan on my Fury, NEVER again.

Why not?

 

[69PHOENIX]

O.K.
First 69 Fury / Phoenix I owned was in 1976.
383 4DR H/T 2BBL NIIIIICE CAR!
Paid $900, Not a Lot even in those days, But the Fuel "Crisis" was in Vogue so Nobody wanted what they thought was a Gas Guzzler.
(I'm Old enough to Remember when all oil reserves would be Exhausted by 2000, which was a Great excuse to increase Prices)
Amazingly enough I was able many times to achieve 23 M.P.G. (Imp)
But that's another story.
The Reason I want Deep Sumps is because on so many occasions, under sudden heavy acceleration, the Oil would run away from the Pick up.
Not that I was a Street Racer of course, But from a Standing Start any Heavy Acceleration and a Hundred Yards down the road the Oil Light would
just about Blind you, Took a lot of the Fun out of Life.
So I figure a Baffled Deep Sump would be a Wise Move. (I actually have an idea for adding Extra Capacity by Widening the Sump not so much Deepening it. Think about adding a Modified Wine Bottle to Either Side of the Sump & adding an Inch to the Depth. Not a Great addition to the Capacity but enough, about 4 Pints, Baffled of course.)
As to the Trans I have read many articles over the Years criticising the T/Flites Sump Capacity.
At my age this will be the Last Car I build so I want to build it Right.
As to the T/Shaft Angles, I'm Fairly Familiar with Drive Shaft Phasing, If it's done properly you can get away with some really weird angles.
Where they Fail is in Not being Phased Properly.
People tend to try to point Transmissions at Diffs and that's not how it works, Universal Joints need to be allowed to do what they are designed to do.
Anyway Thanks for your Thoughts, As I say, Always Appreciated.
Kind Regards, Tony.M

 

[69 300 vert]

Why not?

Ground clearance, no matter how carefully I tried to drive sometimes banging the pan was just unavoidable. I said short time, it was several years, it got banged up, started to leak. Was relieved to get it off there.

Baffle your stock pan, it'll be fine, if you elect to widen it, look out for steering linkage clearance, at full lock, both directions.

 

[69PHOENIX]

69 300 VERT.
Just Spotted your Comment as I Posted My Reply.
I assume due to Parking Lot Humps Etc.
That will be the Reason I DON'T Go Ahead with the Idea.
Regards & Thanks, Tony.M
O.K.
This is Weird, Just Got your Second Reply But can't Get out of this Post for some Reason.
Anyway Thanks !
Tony.M

 

[tallhair]

69 300 VERT.
Just Spotted your Comment as I Posted My Reply.
I assume due to Parking Lot Humps Etc.
That will be the Reason I DON'T Go Ahead with the Idea.
Regards & Thanks, Tony.M
O.K.
This is Weird, Just Got your Second Reply But can't Get out of this Post for some Reason.
Anyway Thanks !
Tony.M

Try refreshing the page

 

[CBODY67]

Oil light on acceleration? Our '72 Newport Royal 400 2bbl would do that too. Nothing near a hard start from a stop sign or red light would do it. Our '66 never did that, but if I hit a slick spot at WOT in low gear with the '70 DH43N, the rpm woiuld spike and the oil light would come on, until enough oil got back down there to turn it off. NO bearings ever got noisy.

Shop for "drag race" oil pans of about 6-7 qt capacity might do it? Aren't there some Mopar Perf or 440 6bbl oil pans that are baffled and might work rather than an aftermarket pan?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[73Coupe]

The stock oil pans are prone to getting dented as is.... I couldn't imagine driving around too long with a low hanging sump before it gets breached!

I too had the oil light come on with acceleration or hard cornering. Thought it was mainly due to unbaffled pan, but it turned out that the pickup screen was partially blocked with plastic timing gear bits. After cleaning them out and reinstalling the stock pan, not more oil light. The pan will still get baffles added when the full rebuild takes place.....