Help Needed With Brakes

Rutty

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Hello everyone,

I'm replacing all the brake lines, master cylinder, and all four wheel cylinders on my '68 Newport Custom which I just bought late last year. I've run into problem after problem and am at the end of my patience with this project. Hoping that someone out there may have done this recently and can give me some advice.
My latest problem is I snapped off the bleeder nipple on the front left cylinder. It's a really tight fit to get a wrench in there and I bent the nipple which is why it snapped off. This cylinder had a bleeder nipple that used a 7mm wrench.
After not being able to find a replacement nipple (don't know how a parts store can sell a cylinder but not the replacement bleeder) I ordered a new cylinder from a different parts store in the hopes that it might be a little better quality. It came with a bleeder nipple that uses an 8mm wrench. That's all fine and good but the 7mm wrench already barely fits and I don't think an 8mm wrench will. I was going to install it just to see but then noticed that the flat surface that the copper crush washer seals against is quite a bit smaller on this new cylinder. The new cylinder is shown to the right in the attached picture. Would you guys install this? Do you think there's enough flat area for the crush washer to seal?
Finally, does anyone know of a source for quality wheel cylinders? I haven't been having a lot of luck with these aftermarket ones.

Thanks!

PXL_20210620_191421733.jpg
 
Anther option is send the wheel cylinders out for rebuild , they can sleeve them if needed . My 64 880 I have the same problem . I use a 1/4 drive 6 point deep six point on the bleeder valve. I bleeder wrench works also , you just need to find the style that works for you . Pic is one example . Here is a good source I use for brake rebuild items.
Karps Brake Service-Boosters (karpspb.com)
wmr-w80616_xl.jpg
 
If I understand the question right, the size of the bleeder nipple should not be an issue - as it is a new unit it should open and close easily enough with an open ended spanner. As long as the existing hoses attach and seal correctly you should be good to go.
 
and a flat seal washer just needs to make a tight seal, it doesn't really need to have a 2mm flat area, so to speak, as long as it has enough area to make a leak proof connection between the 2 surfaces
 
and don't over tighten the bleeder valves before bleeding the brakes. the bleeder nipples can be finger tight to just nipped when installing them
 
back to square one - what did your spanner hit against that caused the original bleeder to bend and break?
 
In one respect, the "best quality" wheel cylinders are probably the ones on the car. It was normal to zing a brake cyl hone through them, wash out with brake fluid, then put it all back together with the new kit items . . . back when they were just "used cars". No need to replace them unless the innards were really scored or rusted-up, which was usually rare or "last resort". But in more modern times, the cost of "new" cylinders is probably about the same as or less than a kit to rebuild them, it seems, last time I looked. No mention of their country of origin, though.

Put good quality brake fluid back in the system, too.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Hello everyone,

I'm replacing all the brake lines, master cylinder, and all four wheel cylinders on my '68 Newport Custom which I just bought late last year. I've run into problem after problem and am at the end of my patience with this project. Hoping that someone out there may have done this recently and can give me some advice.
My latest problem is I snapped off the bleeder nipple on the front left cylinder. It's a really tight fit to get a wrench in there and I bent the nipple which is why it snapped off. This cylinder had a bleeder nipple that used a 7mm wrench.
After not being able to find a replacement nipple (don't know how a parts store can sell a cylinder but not the replacement bleeder) I ordered a new cylinder from a different parts store in the hopes that it might be a little better quality. It came with a bleeder nipple that uses an 8mm wrench. That's all fine and good but the 7mm wrench already barely fits and I don't think an 8mm wrench will. I was going to install it just to see but then noticed that the flat surface that the copper crush washer seals against is quite a bit smaller on this new cylinder. The new cylinder is shown to the right in the attached picture. Would you guys install this? Do you think there's enough flat area for the crush washer to seal?
Finally, does anyone know of a source for quality wheel cylinders? I haven't been having a lot of luck with these aftermarket ones.

Thanks!

View attachment 467765

Contact Craig@mobilparts, a vendor on this site for quality US made cylinders. The ChiCom wheel cylinders usually have bleeder screws made out of peanut butter, very soft metal that twists off easily. Replacement bleeder screws are available on line if you Google, "Bleeder Screws"

Dave
 
IIRC I had quite a few aftermarket/parts store wheel cylinders back in the day where the bleeder screws were different sizes, had to use 2 wrenches to bleed the whole car.
 
Here are a couple of pics of the clearance issue. You can see that there's not much room between the bleeder and the suspension piece (steering knuckle?). I can just sneak the closed end of the 7mm wrench over. I don't think there would be enough room to get the closed end of an 8mm wrench over the bleeder. I'd have to use the open end.
You can see my "homemade" bent 7mm wrench in the one picture. I can't help but think there must be a better way to do this.
PXL_20210620_232850744.jpg
PXL_20210620_232942319.jpg
 
I'm thinking your bleeder screws should be SAE not metric, 5/16" IIRC. Like Davea Lux posted above, get a hold of Craig@mobileparts for the best wheel cylinders and any other parts or hardware you need for this or any future jobs. He stocks a lot of the older, higher quality parts and he knows what you will need. If you leave a message he will call you back. (516) 485-1935.
 
Yes there is a better way to do this. Use a 1/4” drive socket on those bleeders. Don’t try to use a wrench. The China wheel cylinders have metric bleeder screws.

I like rebuilding wheel cylinders. Remove and degrease/clean & dry, soak in evaporust. Hone inside paint outside. Good to go.

I use dot 3 fluid and flush it every 2 years. No problem. No rust, no mushy pedal that dot 5 will sometimes rewards you with. There are many ways to do things and this works for me. And it’s all we had Until mid 80’s and cars stopped just fine and they still do.
 
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I use a 1/4" drive deep well socket with an extension to move the bleeder screw and it works much better than a wrench as 413 pointed out.

Dave
 
Thank you everyone for the suggestions!
I think I'll put the cylinder on with the 8mm bleeder and try the deep socket. This may be a dumb question but do you still use a clear tube on the end of the bleeder while using the socket or do you just use the socket to break it loose and then use a wrench while bleeding?
 
Oh, also I'll make sure to contact Craig@mobileparts next time instead of buying the cheap aftermarket parts!
 
Thank you everyone for the suggestions!
I think I'll put the cylinder on with the 8mm bleeder and try the deep socket. This may be a dumb question but do you still use a clear tube on the end of the bleeder while using the socket or do you just use the socket to break it loose and then use a wrench while bleeding?
Clear tube is to direct the fluid downward into a catch-can to prevent a mess.
Use whatever tool you can to break it loose, then only needs ~90° to open/close during the bleeding strokes. When finished, tighten a bit more with whatever tool you can. They only need to be tight enough to prevent a leak, you don't need to put them on like a bodybuilder.

If you have the discipline, turning the screws ~30° open/close once per year would keep from seizing, and would not require a re-bleed.
 
Loosen it then use the clear tube. 1/2 turn is fine. While it’s dripping in a can turn Your ratchet to tighten so it’s ready to go
 
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