I know this is not about a C Body, but you all a great source. What make and model is this carb? It is on my original 1975 Cordoba - 360 2 bbl.? I need to buy a rebuilt kit, it doesn't want to run very smooth!
If I was to keep the car completely stock, then I need one of these. But... if not, anyone recommend another two barrel carb? This car is a pretty pristine, almost show quality doba with Houndstooth interior.Good luck.
Those are one of the worst carburetors ever made.
You could have huge pile of them and still not have one that runs right.
I have one that actually runs well, and I have to move it from car to car any time I need to run one of my 360 or 400 2bbl. cars.
The accelerator pump check valve seat erodes, causing a bad stumble off idle that you can't get rid of. Sometimes you can clean the seat up with a drill bit, but it's not uncommon for the bit to go right through the bottom of the carb before the seat cleans up. The pro rebuilders probably have a way to deal with this, though I've seen plenty of these that were professionally rebuilt and they still don't run right.
Jeff
If anyone does this service make sure that the intake crossover is clean and free of this carbon. When I did my badly heat riser clogging to bring back cold weather drivability on my 318, I started cleaning out the intake manifold gasket area I had to dig real deep. A lot of long screwdriver poking/chipping away and blowing out with the air hose to get it pretty much all cleaned out. PITA & YMMV.Holley 2245. Make sure the heat crossover is open and not plugged with carbon. It really makes all the difference on these cars.
Look at the photos, I just fixed one, look at the plugged heat crossover. This car ran terrible, Like a total POS. Now after the clean out it runs like a top.
The crossover in the intake should be hot in just a few minutes of running, and very hot after driving. If not it needs cleaned out. I know racers like to block this but on a stock engine and carb it is not a benefit to have the intake cold.
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Have you ever rebuilt a carb before?I know this is not about a C Body, but you all a great source. What make and model is this carb? It is on my original 1975 Cordoba - 360 2 bbl.? I need to buy a rebuilt kit, it doesn't want to run very smooth!View attachment 475312
Yes, it is good clean car. Pictures from my detailer today as it sits in my shop.Have you ever rebuilt a carb before?
That looks to be a fairly clean engine bay, I'd suggest getting all the numbers off the carb ie remove the carb and get the body numbers and any other tag number if any (revision) then do your own research for the correct kit part number and go from there. There is and has always been many 'That'll work' part suppliers. Make sure you get a good kit as that carb really doesn't look too bad and you may get away with a carb can spray clean and not having to dip it.
Oh, I stand corrected, this one has Aztec interior!Yes, it is good clean car. Pictures from my detailer today as it sits in my shop.
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If I was to keep the car completely stock, then I need one of these. But... if not, anyone recommend another two barrel carb? This car is a pretty pristine, almost show quality doba with Houndstooth interior.
I run ethanol free gas in all of my 70's cars. I am now conflicted. I have a Holley rebuild kit coming along with a new fuel pump. (should I just buy a rebuilt carb?) The car takes quite a bit of priming to start (ole gas can to the carb trick), and need to keep the rpm's up to run. My detailer could not get it to run, so they pushed it around. I can keep it running, but I am used to that in Chryslers. As usual, ran when parked about a year ago!With all due respect, that Holley 2210 (non-EGR) or Holley 2245 (with EGR) is, from my experiences with two of them, a pretty decently designed carb. More throttle responsive and more economical than the Stromberg WWC 2bbl on our '66 Newport 383.
It is not hard to rebuild, either. The ONLY real issue with them, from my use and research, is that the upper housing under the air cleaner stud will gradually pull upward and expose the power valve vacuum passage to open air, along with breaching the seal between the float bowl and the venturi area of the carb. Which means the power valve is open all of the time, which also means about 11mpg no matter what. It can further erode cold engine warmup as raw fuel from the float bowl is sucked into the venturi area/throttle bores as the choke blade is closed. Chrysler had a "bridge kit" to fix that, which is an easy install, also.
The heat crossover coking issue seems to be an LA engine issue. When the passge clogs, then the automatic choke ceases to function as it should. The only fix is to chip everything out of the passage. The clogging is typically the result of short-trip driving, as many of the '66 Belvederes the local dealer sold to elderly ladies, who probably did not drive over about 5 miles at a time, had that issue by the time the cars had 60k miles on them. Except in warmer weather, the chokes never got a chance to fully open, so then when the automatic chokes started to cause the engines to not run well, they'd be in the service department getting those heat crossover passages cleaned out.
Although ethanol'd fuel has been with us a good while, make sure that the accel pump cup is compatible with it. In whatever kit you might find. This is ONE place where NOS is not desirable. BUT, do get an OEM-type carb base gasket to go with the kit. Most of the ones in the kits are thin, cardboard type gaskets rather than the 1/4" thick OEM-style gaskets.
Nice Cordoba!
Just my experiences and such, which might vary from others.
CBODY67
A few more pictures;Have you ever rebuilt a carb before?
That looks to be a fairly clean engine bay, I'd suggest getting all the numbers off the carb ie remove the carb and get the body numbers and any other tag number if any (revision) then do your own research for the correct kit part number and go from there. There is and has always been many 'That'll work' part suppliers. Make sure you get a good kit as that carb really doesn't look too bad and you may get away with a carb can spray clean and not having to dip it.
Usually the idle air bleeds are about 3 times too large.