I have a 1973 Dodge Polara and am about to replace the cracked dashpad with a good one .The questions I have are can this be done without removing the windshield and about how long of a process is this? Also I want to take the old vin plate and put it on the replacement pad..Any pointers on drilling out the rivots? I don't want to mess up the plate.Any help will be appreciated.
Dash pad replacement
- Thread starter chry73luv
- Start date
bigmoparjeff
Senior Member
Windshield does not need to come out.
Should take less than two hours to get the dash out.
You should be able to grind the rivets from the back side of the dash, so there's no risk to the VIN plate.
Jeff
Should take less than two hours to get the dash out.
You should be able to grind the rivets from the back side of the dash, so there's no risk to the VIN plate.
Jeff
57fury440
Well-Known Member
Don't drill out the rivets. Once the dash pad is out trim the bottom side of the rivets and push them up through the top. This way you can reuse them and it will look correct. I don't know about a 73 Polara but E body Barracudas do not need to have the windshield removed.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Some General Directions
1970 Fury AC Dash Removal
· DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE WINDSHIELD or A-PILLARS
· Remove the plastic cover from under the steering column.
· Remove the two bolts holding the steering column to the dash lower edge and let the column rest on the driver's seat. I had already removed the steering column and seat. If your car is like mine, you have two studs and two nuts (instead of 2 bolts). The studs should be removed as well as the nuts, especially if you are going to leave the steering column on the seat. You may be able to remove the studs with double nutting. Otherwise, remove with a vise-grip and replace.
· Remove the four screws in the windshield defroster vents, two vents each with a screw on each end. 5/16 short socket, swivel, 6 ext, 3 ext, ¼ ratchet. These screws do not attach the defroster vents. They attach the front of the dash pad to the top of the firewall. 4 separate screws attach the defroster vents to the firewall. Do not attempt to remove these.
· Remove the door sill plates and side kick panels.
· On the engine side of firewall, unplug all the cables from the bulkhead connector. On the passenger side of firewall, remove 2 screws holding the bulkhead connector and fuse panel to the firewall.
· Disconnect the speedometer cable by pushing the clips together and pulling out of the back of the speedometer.
· Unplug wiring harness connectors at the sides under where the kick panels were. These are rear body harness, power seat, power windows, rear speakers, convertible top lift motor, etc. There are a bunch, but each has a different shaped connector so reassembly is easy.
· Next, disconnect any control cables/vacuum hoses running between the heater box and the dash heater control. Heater box stay in the car or is removed separately.
· For AC cars, at passenger side of dash panel under glove, remove 3 PH screws holding AC duct to bottom of dash panel.
· Unplug the radio antenna.
· Under the dash at each end you will find a bolt holding up each end of the dash assembly at the top of where the kick panels were. Loosen these bolts, but do not remove them. The bottom of the dash frame is slotted allowing you to lift it up and out.
· At this point roll the dash towards the seat and lift. Move it out about 5 or 6 inches and check to see if anything is left connecting it to the car. When clear, lift it out.
· If the instrument cluster is still in the dash, it has to be removed before you can detach dash pad from dash panel.
· To detach the dash from the dash pad: there are 7 nuts that mount on studs from the bottom of the dash pad through holes at the top of the dash shell; 3/8 ss, swivel, 6 ext, 3 ext, ¼ R. Six of these nuts are on the right side and one is in a corner on the left side. Remove 5 PH screws, one at each end of the pad and 3 across the top of the instrument cluster mount. The pad and panel should separate.
(This is an expansion on some directions Bill Maitland sent me. Thanks, Bill. RIP)
1970 Fury AC Dash Removal
· DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE WINDSHIELD or A-PILLARS
· Remove the plastic cover from under the steering column.
· Remove the two bolts holding the steering column to the dash lower edge and let the column rest on the driver's seat. I had already removed the steering column and seat. If your car is like mine, you have two studs and two nuts (instead of 2 bolts). The studs should be removed as well as the nuts, especially if you are going to leave the steering column on the seat. You may be able to remove the studs with double nutting. Otherwise, remove with a vise-grip and replace.
· Remove the four screws in the windshield defroster vents, two vents each with a screw on each end. 5/16 short socket, swivel, 6 ext, 3 ext, ¼ ratchet. These screws do not attach the defroster vents. They attach the front of the dash pad to the top of the firewall. 4 separate screws attach the defroster vents to the firewall. Do not attempt to remove these.
· Remove the door sill plates and side kick panels.
· On the engine side of firewall, unplug all the cables from the bulkhead connector. On the passenger side of firewall, remove 2 screws holding the bulkhead connector and fuse panel to the firewall.
· Disconnect the speedometer cable by pushing the clips together and pulling out of the back of the speedometer.
· Unplug wiring harness connectors at the sides under where the kick panels were. These are rear body harness, power seat, power windows, rear speakers, convertible top lift motor, etc. There are a bunch, but each has a different shaped connector so reassembly is easy.
· Next, disconnect any control cables/vacuum hoses running between the heater box and the dash heater control. Heater box stay in the car or is removed separately.
· For AC cars, at passenger side of dash panel under glove, remove 3 PH screws holding AC duct to bottom of dash panel.
· Unplug the radio antenna.
· Under the dash at each end you will find a bolt holding up each end of the dash assembly at the top of where the kick panels were. Loosen these bolts, but do not remove them. The bottom of the dash frame is slotted allowing you to lift it up and out.
· At this point roll the dash towards the seat and lift. Move it out about 5 or 6 inches and check to see if anything is left connecting it to the car. When clear, lift it out.
· If the instrument cluster is still in the dash, it has to be removed before you can detach dash pad from dash panel.
· To detach the dash from the dash pad: there are 7 nuts that mount on studs from the bottom of the dash pad through holes at the top of the dash shell; 3/8 ss, swivel, 6 ext, 3 ext, ¼ R. Six of these nuts are on the right side and one is in a corner on the left side. Remove 5 PH screws, one at each end of the pad and 3 across the top of the instrument cluster mount. The pad and panel should separate.
(This is an expansion on some directions Bill Maitland sent me. Thanks, Bill. RIP)
Bill fury
Member
I just did it on my 70 Fury. Easy, just take your time,and put the screws, and nut in separate little containers so you dont mix them up. I also took the time to wash all the hard plastic that I removed. Change any bulbs that are out.
Wow.That looks great.How long did it take you to do?
This is a pretty good video on how to remove a 69 fury dash pad , a lot will be the same.
And did you do this with the seat in? And about how many pairs of glasses did you go through?
Bill fury
Member
Left the seat in,and glass survived lol. Did I mention I'm 6'3" .And did you do this with the seat in? And about how many pairs of glasses did you go through?
Bill fury
Member
4 hours give or take. I took my time wishing, and cleaning everything I could. And had a few beers.
Mopar Papa
New Member
Where did you get the new pad?
Bill fury
Member
If you're asking me,I had from a parts car. They are out there. I just bought a 3 sneaker 70 fury pad at Carlisle.
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