Front shocks making me mad

prd2bdf

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Hey guys. First post here. I got a 1973 Newport with original shocks. As predicted the rears were a breeze. The fronts however…

I’ve read and read and everyone says it’s just a matter of compressing and slipping it in. I’ve tried for hours and can’t get the KYB shocks in. They’re a pain to compress and I’ve zip tied it as much as I can. It still won’t go in.

what voodoo did you do to get it in in under 45 minutes as some have posted here.
 
When all else failed, they detached the lower ball joint.
Me? I heard the KYB stories so many times I refused to consider them.
 
After diddling with mine for two hours, I took the car and the shocks to a local mechanic. Money well spent.
 
First easy thing to try is to take UCA rubber bumper off for more movement.
 
That’s what my service manual says but when I look at it. I’m wondering how. The metal collar that the shock goes in seems not to give me enough room to angle the shock in and up
First easy thing to try is to take UCA rubber bumper off for more movement.
 
I used good old fashioned regular shocks on the front and they were damn near impossible with the stub out of the car and suspension partially disassembled. Good luck.
 
When I installed a set of the white high pressure KYB's, I had to fully compress the shock in a shop press and tie it in that position with mechanic's wire. It needed to stay 100% compressed in order to fit it into position. Once in place, I cut the wire. The top section of wire around the stud got trapped between the shock and the bushing and had to be left there, but caused no problems.

That's the last set of KYB's that I'll ever install on a C body.

I put a set of the silver KYB's on a Ford Expedition, and they were weak, undersized junk right out of the box. Within a few months they became worse than the 320K mile original Ford shocks that came off it. I was surprised, since the Japanese usually make good stuff.

Jeff
 
Remove the lower bolts from your brake plate and the lower control arm will fall down. They will easily go in that way. Release the tension on your torsion bars first by loosening the torsion bolts.

The two bolts at the bottom of the plate are what I am talking about.
IMG_2730.JPG


Even with the brake plate still being in place, the lower control arm will drop down like this, giving you kore room to work. Those are KYBs you see there. That large bolt on the bottom of the control arm is what needs to be loosened first.
IMG_2732.JPG
 
Release the tension on your torsion bars first by loosening the torsion bolts.
^This^

@prd2bdf
BE SURE TO LOOSEN THE TORSION BARS! Otherwise the LCA will let loose with possibly lethal results.

I'd still just try removing the upper control arm rubber bumper first. That will let the whole suspension drop down another inch or so, possibly giving more clearance to install the shock.
 
I stick with Monroe HD shocks. Part of the whole C body experience is the ride. They’ll never handle like today’s Charger.
 
Jeff are you happy with the white high pressure KYB's? I have the silver ones I put in last year and they dont feel right, has a bit of a "shimmy"
And yes I did the same thing tied them closed with wire and cut it out after cussing them in there.
 
("cussing them in there" work better than hammers and pry bars??)

Monroe was the shock supplier for OEM and Chrysler Parts back then. Their old Super 500s worked great for a firm and responsive ride/handling experience, by observation. But the Monroe RadialMatics which replaced them didn't feel as firm as the Suoer 500s did, by observation. Even with the radial tires the RMs were allegedly tuned for, on my '67 Newport. Not sure how the current Monroe shocks equate to the old ones, in firmness and such. But even the Monroes are low-pressure gas shocks as I recall. KYBs are mid-pressure and Bilsteins are "high-pressure". NONE of which really affects the total valving, altough the presssure can be a factor. Even the old red KONIs are lower-pressure gas shocks now.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Jeff are you happy with the white high pressure KYB's? I have the silver ones I put in last year and they dont feel right, has a bit of a "shimmy"
And yes I did the same thing tied them closed with wire and cut it out after cussing them in there.

No, I didn't care for them. The front shock tube diameter was so small that even the high pressure gas was inadequate for the weight of the car. The rear KYB's were huge. The rebound control between front and rear was totally out of balance. Go over a rise and fall in the road and the front of the car would pivot up and down, where the rear didn't budge. Don't waste your time and money on the white KYB shocks.


Jeff
 
While were having problems...

I am putting a new set of Bilstiens in my '71 300. I'm redoing the whole suspension so it was very easy to get the shocks in place... but now...

I can't get the bottom of the shock to squeeze into the lower control arm enough to get the bolt through. A bunch of persuasion with a rubber mallet and using a screwdriver through the bolt hole have got me kinda close. I gave up last night when the sun went down. Today after work I'll grab some prybars and a bigger hammer?
 
Subscribed. I put standard Monroes on when I first got my car, better than the leaking originals but not much. After much back and forth here and many positive reviews I have a full set of KYB silver waiting to be installed.
 
I ended up taking the tension off the torsion bars, unbolted the upper ball joint and compressed the shocks and stuck them in there then bolted them all back up. The silver kybs does an admirable job.
 
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