What are you working on today??

66 SF 383/727 spun rod bearings and seized up after 12 miles at 120+ mph.
Gauges View attachment 482340 showed all was good till i let off and it died and that was all she wrote. Since have learned that B engines have slow oil drainback problem and that i most likely emptied the sump.
That does suck, but where did you run it that hard without getting busted?
 
Where did you order your tank from?
FYI - I recently replaced the tank in my 67 Newport, and I bought the tank and the other bits for the project from Vans Auto. The tank and some of the bits were available on their Ebay store, which is cheaper since the shipping is included. The tank fit perfectly.
 
I had to have the factory alternator rebuilt for the black Imperial after it spun a bearing. Since I was taking it to a local shop for the work, I had him rebuild the starter too. Got them back yesterday, and hope to have them both installed later today.
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I never really realized how bad my arm rest were until a buddy gave me some freshly painted base plates he had. Thanks to ABC Moparts in AZ, I got some repop arm rests and am stoked at the results. Did both doors. Really improves the look of the entire interior.
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Repaired my frame and started making a new kickstand mount on my motorcycle.
Re learning how to weld after 33 years. First time with a Mig Welder.
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I had to work on the church's mower, this happened while mowing last night...
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The left side was welded last year, so I repaired the right side and reinforced the left side.

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I didn't have any JD green at the shop so black will have to do for now
 
Upgraded the turn signal bulbs on my thing to led. These originally had the 73 and up big *** ugly elephant size taillights . The upper tail light brake light is now 58-61 bus , the backup lens 67-71 bus is the actually the turn signal and small leds under the bumper are backups. Had just a amber bulb which was not bright enough in the day the leds bulbs are way brighter .

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Advanced the timing on my 383 in my 68 Newport, she's a completely different car than when I got her, so much more responsive and no more spark knock when I get on the throttle. My timing before adjustment (today while I was checking anyways, before it was so bad it would backfire), looked to be around 15-16 degrees BTC, I moved it closer/right at 10 and now she cranks after two full turns from the key. No more throttle shenanigans to get her to fire now.
 
Advanced the timing on my 383 in my 68 Newport, she's a completely different car than when I got her, so much more responsive and no more spark knock when I get on the throttle. My timing before adjustment (today while I was checking anyways, before it was so bad it would backfire), looked to be around 15-16 degrees BTC, I moved it closer/right at 10 and now she cranks after two full turns from the key. No more throttle shenanigans to get her to fire now.
You actually retarded the timing, it was over advanced. 15-16 BTDC is why you had spark knock, retarding it to 10 took timing out which reduced your total timing and eliminated your spark knock.
 
You actually retarded the timing, it was over advanced. 15-16 BTDC is why you had spark knock, retarding it to 10 took timing out which reduced your total timing and eliminated your spark knock.
Ahhh yes, so that's how it is. I wasn't really sure of the exact relationship between that, I thought the timing was too retarded, I guess with the way I was reading it on the timing ledger over the harmonic balancer I misunderstood the relationship. (Before it was showing the mark even below the ledger itself, when I moved it, that's how I saw I moved it to 10 degrees). I learn something new with this car everyday!
Interestingly though, I remember reading in my FSM for this car, that the 383s with the TF had the advance of 7 1/2 degrees, while the manual equipped 383 cars had a timing of exactly TDC. I'm not really sure why they had the difference? I can only assume off the top of my head it has to deal with the way the manual vs automatic trans works, since the manual you switch gears manually while the TF regulates shifting with fluid pressure from the kickdown linkage...I just found it interesting they had the difference.
 
The ramp pegs on my buddy's trailer were completely cracked out, so I repaired those before loading up the other Mopar. I decided to take my mom wheeling, she was smiling so much that her face hurt by the end of the day. Like any big kid, I found a puddle and had to jump in... when I jumped in, I didn't really find the bottom, and I sunk it up to the "frame rails" (unibody Jeep).
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Finally got my original booster back from Booster Dewey & installed today on the 67 disc brake Fury. Repainted my original MC, a little prettier than the crappy job they did from the factory. My spare Bendix rebuilt booster will be for sale pending a test drive.
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