Exterior LED lighting upgrade

[bnz84]

I know others have successfully went to LED headlights so before I committed to redoing the wiring I thought it wise to try too. I'm not ready to give a review or post as I just haven't gone out at night much. I know ,lame, but I will. They do work with original wiring. I have used them. I didnt want old yellow and I didn't want blue tint. But bright white was OK so this is what I got. I did have to trim off some of the rubber boot that seals the light and gives ventilation. Seems counterintuitive to allow moisture in. But these bulbs are so common and I DONT see too many complaints of water and dirt getting in them unless its a daily driver in dirty conditions. Tech is always changing and probably stuff out there better since I got them. Companies putting together kits for old cars are probably pretty up on what is needed. The filters are a nice idea too.

H4 Hi - Lows
H1 Hi only

AutoPal Headlights. From India. More respected than the chinese ones but less than german and brand names. I was going to buy from this site but got them at Carlisle. They have different versions. Some with LEDs to serve as daytime running lights or connect into dims. I didnt want this. The H1 highs I linked to are the slightly more modern look with the center reflector. Not OEM look. They on ebay and amazon too.
H4
H1

 

[Mike66Chryslers]

cbarge, When you did this conversion, did you include the fender mount signal lights? Do they make LED replacements for those bulbs too? I know that those can be a PITA to swap.

I used these LED bulbs to replace the fender turn signal bulbs. They just fit in the socket and look very good when lit. The ones I linked to are no longer available, but the most important thing to know is that they have a "BA9S" base style.

In a 66 Chrysler there were a couple dash bulbs that used these as well. I think the lights that shine into the ashtrays and possibly the light for the heater controls, or maybe it was the light for the ignition key.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01KRL8AYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[SPF Required]

Trying to do before and after pics of this upgrade during daylight hours was not as good as I had hoped, but I can tell by looking this is going to be a great upgrade.

I did reveal that I have a deeper issue to figure out with my reverse lights not coming on, but that is a battle for another day.

A couple of questions regarding the emergency flashers: I installed the grounded turn signal relay and reversed the polarity of the socket and it works great. I have never had working emergency flasher in the ride and noticed an empty socket next to the turn signal relay, but it is a three wire socket. Is this for the emergency flasher relay? Is there a different one out there with three blades?? And if so, I assume it too would need to be a grounded variety like the turn signal relay??

 

[SPF Required]

Disregard. After consulting the FSM wire diagram, I think that empty 3 wire socket is the “Time Delay Relay”.

 

[SPF Required]

It looks like I need to find this relay/socket:

Anyone know where this is hiding under the dash of a ‘68 300?

 

[cbarge]

cbarge, When you did this conversion, did you include the fender mount signal lights? Do they make LED replacements for those bulbs too? I know that those can be a PITA to swap.

I did not since 2 out of 3 cars I converted did not have the fender mount turn signals.
But Mike has already mentioned a good recommendation.

 

[bnz84]

I had trouble finding the emergency flasher relay even after I read other's instructions on where to find it. Mine was between the ash tray and column. But tucked up snug to the metal not hanging. No way I could put a light or eyeball on so I I just felt for it. Only after the sweat got in my eyes did I find it. Good luck. Its there.

 

[SPF Required]

Thanks for the tip on finding that emergency flasher. I’ll dig around for that when I start to diagnose the reverse light issue. (My gut says it’s the switch at the base of the column).

in the meantime, I did the parking lights in the front bumper too. You can see the difference in this pic (driver side is the LED).

And here’s a close up of the bulb itself:

New problem popped up though…. Now the brake lights only come one when the headlights are on and the blinkers only work when they are off. Pretty sure the solution lies in the connector at the base of the column (because that’s where it was before). Stay tuned!

 

[Mike66Chryslers]

Thanks for the tip on finding that emergency flasher. I’ll dig around for that when I start to diagnose the reverse light issue. (My gut says it’s the switch at the base of the column).

in the meantime, I did the parking lights in the front bumper too. You can see the difference in this pic (driver side is the LED).
View attachment 482731

And here’s a close up of the bulb itself:
View attachment 482732

New problem popped up though…. Now the brake lights only come one when the headlights are on and the blinkers only work when they are off. Pretty sure the solution lies in the connector at the base of the column (because that’s where it was before). Stay tuned!

If those are the type of LED bulbs that are amber running lights and also flash amber when the signals are on using the same LED elements, you may not be able to use them. I was not able to on my 66. Long story short is: What was originally 2 separate circuits with the original 2-filament incandescent bulb is now tied together using this bulb, which causes some interesting power backfeed in the system.

If so, you need "switchback" bulbs with 1157 base. I used the following. They are white as running lights and amber as turn signals.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075R4V43V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[cbarge]

Thanks for the tip on finding that emergency flasher. I’ll dig around for that when I start to diagnose the reverse light issue. (My gut says it’s the switch at the base of the column).

in the meantime, I did the parking lights in the front bumper too. You can see the difference in this pic (driver side is the LED).
View attachment 482731

And here’s a close up of the bulb itself:
View attachment 482732

New problem popped up though…. Now the brake lights only come one when the headlights are on and the blinkers only work when they are off. Pretty sure the solution lies in the connector at the base of the column (because that’s where it was before). Stay tuned!

You did say you installed a grounded LED flasher for the emergency but did you do the same for the turn signals?

 

[SPF Required]

You did say you installed a grounded LED flasher for the emergency but did you do the same for the turn signals?

other way around. I have the grounded led flasher in for the turn signal, I still need to find the emergency flasher up under the dash somewhere.

 

[SPF Required]

I am starting to dig into my issues and decided to start with the connector at the base of the column. My intent was to clean the pins with deoxit and reassemble. But upon opening the connector, I noticed one of the wire connectors was broken.

hard to see it in the photo below, but it is the sexond from the right in the top row. If I trace this wire correctly in the FSM wiring diagram, I think this leads to the tail/stop lights in the back.

I pulled that wire from the connector (second photo below), but can’t figure out where to get this type of terminal for the wire. Hoping I can find it locally so I can get her back on the road.

Can someone tell me what type of terminal this is?

 

[cbarge]

I see green death.
For now if connector is not available make a jumper wire to see it it is the problem.
If still no power going to brake lights then TS switch may be bad.
On a 68 its not that hard to change compared to 70 and newer.
You dont have to deal with the ignition and locking column combo.
Hope this helps.

 

[SPF Required]

green death

man, I don’t like the sound of that! I will give the jumper wire a try and let you know how it works out.

 

[Turboomni]

here is the link to the Super brite LED vehicle LED Lights..
LED Lights, Bulbs & LED Lighting Accessories | superbrightleds.com
Go to vehicle bulb finder and bulbs will come up.
I specifically use the 360 degree beam angle bulbs with 27 LED's
The tail lights are 1157-R27-T
Front park turns 1157-A27-T
Reverse is 1156-CW27-T

Although I did not do the whole car yet I did install 4 1157-R27 Red bulbs in the rear tail light lenses. They work really great and a big improvement. I didn't change anything in the front. Flashers work fine and the incandescent bulbs in the front are brighter.

 

[SPF Required]

For now if connector is not available make a jumper wire to see it it is the problem.

that connector/wire appears to be the culprit.

tested it with a jumper:

And gave it a temp fix bypassing the connector and installing an insulated spade connector:

I live to fight another day!

now on the the reverse lights.

 

[SPF Required]

Flashers work fine and the incandescent bulbs in the front are brighter.

This may change once you go all LED. The remaining filament bulbs you have on the circuit might be drawing enough to allow the flasher to work properly. My understanding is with the low draw of leds, the ‘analog flasher’ will make then hyper flash.

completely agree on the improved brightness.

 

[Turboomni]

This may change once you go all LED. The remaining filament bulbs you have on the circuit might be drawing enough to allow the flasher to work properly. My understanding is with the low draw of leds, the ‘analog flasher’ will make then hyper flash.

completely agree on the improved brightness.

Yes I agree with you that converting the front bulbs will make the present flasher go nuts. Actually I am so happy with it I may leave it as is as the remaining incandescent bulb shine brighter now. My main concern was the brake lights and not having a 3rd one everyone is used too. With 4 of these Leds going off now in the back when braking they can surely see them now.

 

[Gerald Morris]

This may change once you go all LED. The remaining filament bulbs you have on the circuit might be drawing enough to allow the flasher to work properly. My understanding is with the low draw of leds, the ‘analog flasher’ will make then hyper flash.

completely agree on the improved brightness.

Just get an electronic-mechanical flasher, and you can go ALL LED, sans resistive loads or misbehaving circuit branches. $8-20, depending on what brand and vendors you trust.

 

[cbarge]

1157 Switchback LED Bulb - Dual Function 60 SMD LED Tower - A Type - BAY15D Bulb | Super Bright LEDs