1975 Chrysler New Yorker Brougham

bvberserk

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Moscow, RU
Hello colleagues (probably I can name you colleagues since now :) ).
Finally got my first C-body -named above 2-door New Yorker with St. Regis package
I was definitely refreshed with new paint some time ago (lots of overspray) , but overall condition is pretty nice - interior is almost excelent, and it looks pretty solid unreneath too.
It still has its factory 440 inside and it runs very smoothly.
Surely there are minor stuff to work on - passenger wiper not working, some wires disconnected under the hood (probably seat belt security), AC not working, steering leaking a bit and more and more.
On the other hand vinyl top looks awesome and all trim is in place. Also previous owner left both Service and Body manuals, which is very handy :)
I will add more pictures here and to my garage.
Will appreciate your comments and any piece of advise (as I will have lots of stupid questions :) )

here is my garage link, still have to get familiar with forum features
1975 New Yorker Brougham

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nice ! did you import it to Russia or did someone else ? a friend sold a Cordoba years ago which went to Moscow

mark
 
Here are some underneath and underhood pics. Radiator seems to be factory one. Rear axle is 9 1/4 afaik, though I forgot to check if SureGrip is installed. Sliding front calipers
Are these rear shocks some kind of tuning? :poke:
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Welcome. There is a host of knowledge from many good people here. All the problems you mention are fairly common. Good luck with the wiper in particular. Beautiful car.
 
Looks good! Underhood pretty clean as well. Disconnected wires near starter relay most likely seatbelt interlock system, I have the same loose connectors in my '75 Imperial
 
nice ! did you import it to Russia or did someone else ? a friend sold a Cordoba years ago which went to Moscow

mark
I bought it in Minnesota and imported, so I'm the first owner here.


Looks good! Underhood pretty clean as well. Disconnected wires near starter relay most likely seatbelt interlock system, I have the same loose connectors in my '75 Imperial

I also suppose it is interlock disconnected, as the car starts in any case no matter where seatbelts are

Rear shock with assisted springs are a common cure to help jack up sagging rear springs.
Air shocks are another Mopar recommended way to increase load carrying capacity and many chose to go that route. (raise hand)
.

I see, thank you. Not sure whether I need additional load capacity, I'd probably look forward installing rear sway bar recommended here
 
The first quest I'm trying to resolve are seatbelts. According to owners manual (and what I see actually) driver and passenger have three-point belts, however this piece looks like cut and I see no buckles or anything to connect with main buckle. Although main buckle does have additional hole, I'm not sure how shoulder belt should fit there. I will appreciate if someone share a pic how it should look like.
As for now I use it as two-point seatbelt, but it definitely is less secure and attracts additional police attention, as it looks like I'm not attached at all.

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what I may suspect is some kind of retraction issues, otherwise I see no reason to cut seatbelts from both sides.
 
The first quest I'm trying to resolve are seatbelts. According to owners manual (and what I see actually) driver and passenger have three-point belts, however this piece looks like cut and I see no buckles or anything to connect with main buckle. Although main buckle does have additional hole, I'm not sure how shoulder belt should fit there. I will appreciate if someone share a pic how it should look like.
As for now I use it as two-point seatbelt, but it definitely is less secure and attracts additional police attention, as it looks like I'm not attached at all.

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No back in the day when shoulder belts became mandatory via the NTSB on production vehicles (1969?) some drivers didn't care for the shoulder part and just cut them off. Some just coupled the buckle and sat on top of them to silence the seat belt buzzer, some disabled the seat belt buzzer (raise hand many times).
There were no laws back then that required you to wear the belt but just manufacture annoyances to get you to 'Buckle Up' which were easily defeated as many mechanics (raise hand 'again') were quite annoyed at the buzzer nagging when we were servicing vehicles. States with vehicle inspection laws one of the requirements to pass inspection would be that the belts are present and functioning properly as with the catalytic converter and emission controls. ie air pump belt, etc.
This car with the cut shoulder belts would fail inspection in many USA states. Most Inspection Stations would let the non operating buzzer and seat-belt warning system slide as they being mechanics themselves were annoyed at this system and as in many states the law only stated that the inspection only required that the seat-belts be present and operational.

With today's 'Buckle Up' laws if the coppers don't see the shoulder belt properly worn it's a pull over and ticket.

One state that I know of today requires that all cars on the road registered in that state be required to have seat & shoulder belts to be operated on the states roadways even though being a 'Classic Car' (Pre 1968) without the mandatory manufacture belts that the vehicle be retrofitted with belts to pass the state mandatory inspection laws. Many old car buff's went boohoo 'bout this.


.
 
The first quest I'm trying to resolve are seatbelts. According to owners manual (and what I see actually) driver and passenger have three-point belts, however this piece looks like cut and I see no buckles or anything to connect with main buckle. Although main buckle does have additional hole, I'm not sure how shoulder belt should fit there. I will appreciate if someone share a pic how it should look like.
As for now I use it as two-point seatbelt, but it definitely is less secure and attracts additional police attention, as it looks like I'm not attached at all.

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Good morning from New York City, welcome to the site and congratulations on your new toy. I had a 75 identical to yours, and pictured below is the best I had of the way the seatbelt should look.
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it does appear that someone has cut your seatbelt. There is a retractor in the quarter panel under the opera window, the seatbelt and continues to the roofline for a contact point and back down to the main buckle with the other retractor on the floor next to the seat. I had similar issues with my retractors not releasing when trying to apply the seatbelt, so I’m guessing at some point in the cars past they cut the seatbelt due to the retractor not releasing.
 
it does appear that someone has cut your seatbelt. There is a retractor in the quarter panel under the opera window, the seatbelt and continues to the roofline for a contact point and back down to the main buckle with the other retractor on the floor next to the seat. I had similar issues with my retractors not releasing when trying to apply the seatbelt, so I’m guessing at some point in the cars past they cut the seatbelt due to the retractor not releasing.

Thank you for the picture, now I see there is no any additional buckles, just a belt loop. Will take a closer look at shoulder belt and its retractor, hopefully service manual has some details regarding it
 
As for exterior look, my car is missing pinstripes, but I wonder whether it needs side moldings?
i.e. this pic (as well as 75LandYacht one) shows side molding:
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while there is no such molding in Chrysler catalog
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Was is some kind of an option? I'd assume st regis has a fullset of options
 
Those side moldings are there to help prevent parking lot dings. Now that cars are so much taller, their door will miss the molding and hit your car whether they are there or not.
 
Got my *** kicked today by NY-er - started right up but idling was really rough (noticed such behavior on cold start earlier, but it was getting fixed after short warmup), but after couple of minutes it stalled and I couldn't start it again even with QuickStart spray. I've got carbed Suzuki bike some time ago and you could literally kick it the whole day when temperature goes down, but if fired instantly with QuickStart. But here it's not the case, I didn't hear even minor changes. Probably got spark plugs wet, as I pumped pedal quite actively :)
it is 45 F degrees outside and I guess I need to take a closer look to the carb - at least check if choke works.
 
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