I am working on my first classic a 66 Fury III. The original fuse panel had some corrosion so I got the bright idea to replace it with a modern style fuse box the has a main power feed to the fuses and a main ground feed to the ground terminals. I am having trouble figuring out what wire I would use for the main power. I have a wiring diagram but I am just not getting it. I am trying to get the wiring done so I can put the dash back in. I appreciate any knowledge that you are willing to give.
Wiring aftermarket fuse box
- Thread starter Haze08
- Start date
What color is the car?
What color is the car the box came from?
Do you have any other relevant information you could share?
What color is the car the box came from?
Do you have any other relevant information you could share?
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
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Cantflip is trying to make a point. Which is we need more information before you can get any worthwhile information.
Year, make, model, and relevant pictures.
Year, make, model, and relevant pictures.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Heh.... I try to stay away from Internet car electrical issues, but with this one of trying to wire a 'Aftermarket' fuse box to a old car is my take on the color of the car is it will be 'Burnt' if they get it wrong....
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Do not condemn your fusepanel just yet....
Corrosion in the fuse panel is common.
So are the terminals for the fuse panel if they do not clean up.
I would remove and clean the terminals first.
Delmar has the terminals if rusty beyond cleaning.
Del Mar Wire & Products - Wholesale Automotive and Electrical Distributor
Installing a late model fuse panel you are creating more work than necessary and I dont recommend it without totally rewiring the entire car (painless wiring kit,etc).
Bypassing the bulkhead connector abd do the underhood ammeter bypass and a clean fuse panel your car can be reliable for another 50+ years.
Hope this helps.
Corrosion in the fuse panel is common.
So are the terminals for the fuse panel if they do not clean up.
I would remove and clean the terminals first.
Delmar has the terminals if rusty beyond cleaning.
Del Mar Wire & Products - Wholesale Automotive and Electrical Distributor
Installing a late model fuse panel you are creating more work than necessary and I dont recommend it without totally rewiring the entire car (painless wiring kit,etc).
Bypassing the bulkhead connector abd do the underhood ammeter bypass and a clean fuse panel your car can be reliable for another 50+ years.
Hope this helps.
Not sure what is seeking to be accomplished. It's one thing to have a common power feed, but another to have a common ground feed from the same box. Especially as the "ground" is through each of the individual circuits as they are being used. Even the gauges.
Other than the ammeter bypass, seeking to undo factory circuits will take spools of wire and not really accomplish anything better, other than new-style fuses, it seems. As with many "upgrade" projects, do NOT make more work than is necessary! FWIW
By observation, the Painless kit is really designed for street rod-type vehicles and NOT OEM vehicles, unless they might have specific harnesses for particular applications of particular vehicles.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Other than the ammeter bypass, seeking to undo factory circuits will take spools of wire and not really accomplish anything better, other than new-style fuses, it seems. As with many "upgrade" projects, do NOT make more work than is necessary! FWIW
By observation, the Painless kit is really designed for street rod-type vehicles and NOT OEM vehicles, unless they might have specific harnesses for particular applications of particular vehicles.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
There are 3 separate power feeds into the fuse panel. One is for always-hot circuits, basically sourced from the battery. The second is key-switched circuits, fed from the ignition switch. The third is one circuit which is for interior lights which can be dimmed, and is fed from the headlight switch.
One option to consider is using two 4-circuit fuse blocks, one for always-hot circuits and one for key-switched circuits. I've put a couple pictures of possible ones below. Use a separate single inline fuse holder for the dimmer circuit. (I really like the Blue Sea one. It's compact, has screw terminals for all connections, and a cover for safety. I wish they made another that was mirror-image so two could be mounted side-by-side with the power feeds at the same end.)
Cut a base that's about the size of your original fuse panel out of plastic or some suitable material, attach the fuse blocks to it, and mount that where the original fuse panel was.
Take lots of pictures and post a how-to here so others can see your handiwork.
One option to consider is using two 4-circuit fuse blocks, one for always-hot circuits and one for key-switched circuits. I've put a couple pictures of possible ones below. Use a separate single inline fuse holder for the dimmer circuit. (I really like the Blue Sea one. It's compact, has screw terminals for all connections, and a cover for safety. I wish they made another that was mirror-image so two could be mounted side-by-side with the power feeds at the same end.)
Cut a base that's about the size of your original fuse panel out of plastic or some suitable material, attach the fuse blocks to it, and mount that where the original fuse panel was.
Take lots of pictures and post a how-to here so others can see your handiwork.
Was waiting for this to be noticed...
Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
I figured I knew what the OP meant, though an assumption on my part. A lot of generic fuse panels, mostly intended for marine applications, have a ground bus as well as a power bus. Not needed for our automotive application, since the circuits ground through the car's body.Was waiting for this to be noticed...
The problem with fuse panels like this is that they only have a single power feed bus, which is intended to connect to battery positive. There is no capability of having some of the circuits connected to a separate power bus for the key-switched circuits.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Its a bad idea. Go get a replacement fuse block made for that Fury! They can be had, with clips for about a $C note. If you can't floow the old FSM wiring diagram especially, DON'T RUIN YOUR PRECIOUS FURY III by generic after market plastic ATO fuse JUNK!!! DON'T!!
Search for a fuse block, and clips. These CAN be had separate or as a complete unit. Trust me in this, this way is both easier and WAY more reliable than attempting to put modern crap in a superior old machine. Glass fuses were designed by engineers BTW. Get THOSE NOS too.
John Kirby
Active Member
That is what I did. bought the terminals on ebay. Took a little more than an hour to replace them. They were rusted really bad. When done the voltage drop across them dropped dramatically. i.e. the fire hazard was greatly diminished. Take photos while disassembling the box. It will help later. You squeeze the fuse ends together with needle nose pliers and they come out easily. R&R from the wires and press back in. If you cut any wires you're doing it totally wrong and creating a big headache.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
You did things JUST RIGHT! The very fact that your load center had become a source of resistance warranted the measures you took. I'm delighted to know that you did this job right, with the right material. Even when I add extra circuits to my rides, I start with a good, glass SFE rated fuse block which gets fed by a fusible link protected conductor. One can even purchase BREAKERS made to the 1.25" x .25" form factor SFE glass fuses use, if the circuit warrants that sort of protection.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
This is what the cheapest bonafide non-clone SuperBird will get you via Hoovies Garage, BUTT CONNECTORS!
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