Medina, a 1971 T-code Monaco

Great looking ride, and most important of all it is being used often! They really are great cars, even 50 years on from their making!
 
the (blower) fan is now down to a single speed, so that will need to be fixed (whether it is a worn speed switch or the resistor, I will likely take the opportunity to replace them both).
While driving Medina last weeks, I got a pleasant surprise: the blower switch is not down to a single speed, but down to two. It is only missing its "top" speed: "medium" (not just "low") is in fact still possible. The fact that I can get the medium speed when I carefully move the blower switch from the high speed position, but cannot get medium when coming from the low speed position, suggests to me that the switch is in fact the issue.

I have therefore gone hunting for the right switch. Medina's SBD was Nov. 16, 1970, so the correct switch is P/N 2884 338. It is the same part number as on the Fury from 1969 onward (@CanCritter noted that there are "a cpl variations of them 3502679 and 3431496 that supersede older switch's"). In fact, the 1970-1971 parts manual shows that the cutoff date for the change was Feb. 1971:

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I have not seen P/N 3431 496 but I know that P/N 3502 679 does not look like Medina's switch (even though it supersedes P/N 2884 338). That is because 2884338 has a (kinda) triangular end (the part one's finger touches), as seen in this switch from a 1969 Fury:

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Here is Medina's original control panel and switch, for records:

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PS: for resistor with AC, @CanCritter found P/N 2936103 -- but my guess is the switch is Medina's issue.
 
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The only provider of Mopar Parts that I could find that sells the original part number is amsnos.com. You need to call them to find out the price but since the are the most likely source of rare Mopar parts in the country, that is why their prices are higher than most. When you call, either Mike, the owner, or Anthony, one of their associates will provide the price and both are very good to work with.

I see that Len Dawson of Deception Pass Motor Parts out of WA state lists a superseded part number for the original part, which is 3502679 which he has for $50.

And our very own Marty Mopar of Arizona Parts @marty mopar lists that same superseded part number for $25.

Personally, I believe those switches were all junk and Chrysler tried to save a few pennies too many in equipping their cars with them. It didn't help that the blower motors also draw too much current as they age way too rapidly too.

Wyatt could likely take yours apart, clean it and put it back together also. Removing and replacing the blower motor might be worth considering if it hasn't been done before. It is also little fun since the inner fender has to come out. But the blower motor isn't the worst part to replace though in that system - that would probably be the heater core/ac condenser.

The choices are yours.................................
 
The only provider of Mopar Parts that I could find that sells the original part number is amsnos.com. (...) Wyatt could likely take yours apart, clean it and put it back together also. Removing and replacing the blower motor might be worth considering if it hasn't been done before. It is also little fun since the inner fender has to come out. But the blower motor isn't the worst part to replace though in that system - that would probably be the heater core/ac condenser.

The choices are yours.................................
Thank you for the info -- it confirms what I found this afternoon. The good news is that a member has a working used switch for sale that looks correct, and he will check the part number this week.

I will probably replace the resistor at the same time (I have found a NOS one), but will leave the blower till it creates a problem. As you said, the inner fender would need to come out, and if it ain't broke then I am not sure that I want to go through the hassle till I need to. In contrast, resistor and switch can be done in one stroke.
 
Thank you for the info -- it confirms what I found this afternoon. The good news is that a member has a working used switch for sale that looks correct, and he will check the part number this week.

I will probably replace the resistor at the same time (I have found a NOS one), but will leave the blower till it creates a problem. As you said, the inner fender would need to come out, and if it ain't broke then I am not sure that I want to go through the hassle till I need to. In contrast, resistor and switch can be done in one stroke.

I can not recall ever needing to replace a resistor and yes the switch could just be cleaned more than likely as I noted in my previous post.

I personally would not wait for the blower motor to fail. The problem is that when they start deteriorating probably from corrosion, they will draw increasing amounts of amperage and fry the wires/connectors under the steering column which leads to some repairs that are more of a pain than replacing the blower motor after it is too late. Since the 35 amp alternators are not generally available anymore, having been replaced by usual 60 amp versions, those higher output alternators will fry those aforementioned wires very quickly - not worth it IMO.
 
I can not recall ever needing to replace a resistor and (...) I personally would not wait for the blower motor to fail.
Perfect timing for this advice. The SBD on Medina's fender tag is B16. What do you recommend as a source to buy a blower as a birthday present? This one does not look exactly like the factory unit: More Information for VDO / CONTINENTAL PM202
 
This one? https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/.../14667/automotive-car-1971-dodge-monaco?pos=1

Funny that, it is the exact same picture as the VDO / Continental from Rock Auto!

I concluded some time ago that the same blower motor is sold by a variety of suppliers ranging from Murray to Bosch to some others. The one I ended up purchasing last time I needed one was a little different in that it had the exact rubber drain tube attached to the round whole in the housing as did the originals (otherwise they all appeared to be identical). I was hoping perhaps the choices of materials in the newer ones might have been better than the Mopar ones that didn't seem to age well. I only wanted to have to change it once given the necessary removal of the inner fender to access it. I learned from my time at Chrysler that they were too cheap in their electrical components and wiring for their own good (examples of this in the 1970's included power window motors, wiper motors, power seat switches, power window switches, dome lights, map lights, fader switches, door jamb switches, a/c and heater push button switches and on and on).
 
I have had less than great results re-lubing dry bushings in small electric motors. As this seems, in my experience, to be the most common problem, any tips or instruction would be appreciated. Lindsay
 
I have had less than great results re-lubing dry bushings in small electric motors. As this seems, in my experience, to be the most common problem, any tips or instruction would be appreciated. Lindsay
This is a simple electric motor. Most of the heat generated is from poor contact with the commutator and dirty brushes. I have toy train motors that still run well after 100 years, literally, from simple disassembly and cleaning. I would not be confident that a new motor would have quality parts and craftsmen-ship.
 
I would not be confident that a new motor would have quality parts and craftsmen-ship.

I have never had an issue with any of my Forward Look cars relative to blower motors and other electrical components generally in those cars. The power window motors had issues with the gears mostly.

But I can say for sure that the quality of electrical components on the 70s mopars was in the toilet. I enumerated a bunch of them in post 371 above. I personally have no faith in the quality of Chrysler's 70s electrical components and the formals were even worse if that was even possible.

For Bosch to put their name on the motor currently being offered as well as other manufacturers gives me more confidence that these aftermarket ones will go the distance compared to the thrifted electrical components in our Chrysler products. Most of the problems with my scores of cars come from electrical components more than anything else. And the instrument panels are irritating to work on too. I was there when the bean counters and the instrument panel lab couldn't care less about the long term performance of the electrical systems in our cars. The wiring systems were also very weak and under-designed.

My 1989 Dodge Dakota has 200k miles on it and its electrical components are excellent. I have never even had a power window go bad or electric door lock or anything else electrical go bad except for the wiper motor recently. Iacocca knew how to clean house and get quality back into Chrysler's products.

I would trust my old Lionel train sets to go the distance long before I trust anything electrical Chrysler produced in the 70s.
 
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It looked pretty solid to me when I took it apart, guess I'll be the guinea pig for used rebuilt blower motors.
 
It has been three years to the day since @71Polara383 helped me get Medina from upstate NY. He drove a trailer to pick up, and I preceded him by plane to buy, the car. We did so right between a snow storm and an ice storm. Together, we got this rare surviving Monaco bought and on the way to his shop in the nick of time.

Since then, Wyatt has been key to getting her back on the road: I am very grateful to him. I thank as well the many members who helped make this adventure possible -- including in particular @polara71 @'69FuryIIIConvertible @saforwardlook and @david hill .

I don't think I have posted this photo before. I took it last fall. The phone camera lens was not especially clean when I took this shot, so the picture is fuzzy and as a result the car looks dirty. The finger smudge generated a nice rainbow, though, so let's post it after all:

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The weather has turned, spring is here, but unfortunately I am away for work and can’t enjoy driving Medina yet. @71Polara383 and I are big believers in exercising our cars, so he took her out to get some fresh 93 gas and stretch her legs. She passed 84k miles along the way

:thumbsup:

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