Reverse light switch.

[MassDart]

Consider me one of the FABO guys looking for one. I don't care how brittle they are. I just need it to pass inspection once. I don't care if the back up lights work after that. LOL. I'm definitely in for a bunch when you're ready to sell. I'll change it every year if I need to. Thanks for the effort on this!

Doug

 

[carrman]

Converted my '68 to a later style rooster comb and the combined neutral safety/backup light switch later Mopars use. My pin was missing and I couldn't find another one so this was easier.

 

[SPF Required]

Continuing to make some forward progress with this reverse light switch lever (pin) project. The new resin is definitely not as brittle as the original prototypes.

Still need to dial in the size of the teeth that push through the hole in the steering column, but getting close. This latest version had too much play in it and would wiggle past the front of the peg on the reverse light switch. Almost there!

sorry the pics aren’t more clear. There is not a lot of room up there to squeeze in my phone..

 

[MassDart]

Thanks for the update! Very excited to have access to these rather than just having to kluge something together.

 

[halifaxhops]

Great!

 

[MassDart]

Any new progress?

 

[SPF Required]

The progress has been slow…. Sorry. A problem we keep facing is the part of the pin that pushes into the steering column is quite small and resin used in the printing process is somewhat brittle which is a bad combo for such a small piece. Going to keep at it though. There has got to be a way.

 

[Gerald Morris]

The progress has been slow…. Sorry. A problem we keep facing is the part of the pin that pushes into the steering column is quite small and resin used in the printing process is somewhat brittle which is a bad combo for such a small piece. Going to keep at it though. There has got to be a way.

I recommend you drop 3D printing that pin, buy a short 1/4-20 tap which will chuck into a 1/4" hex drive, use a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/4" socket to turn the tap, and then tap that 3/32" hole for 1/4-20 thread. Next, find or make a short 1/4-20 threaded stud to screw into the now threaded hole. NOW, you'll have a sturdy, easily removable stud to push the reverse light switch into position.

This approach served me very nicely. I plan to remove the stud for a little trimming, to better permit the column shifter its full range of movement, like, down to 1st gear, but aside from this flaw in my repair, it works very well. I didn't even need to remove the steering column, which is why I recommend the Klein tap, which you can buy with a set of small self drilling taps at any Klein tools vendor. Home Depot sells them, much as I loathe that evil corporation. Nice to purchase Made in U.S.A. steel tools!

I commend the effort to duplicate the original with a 3D printer, but recommend lost wax acrylic casting over this. Make a wax model, invest it in hard plaster, or dental "stone" (buff colored is the right grade). be sure to make the seam of the model lie midway into the plaster/stone when you invest it, boil it out, then press acrylic into the resulting hollow space. You can even reinforce the model with steel wire, so that when adding the acrylic, your pin will be stronger than the original.

There be many ways to flay a feline bro!

 

[SPF Required]

I recommend you drop 3D printing that pin, buy a short 1/4-20 tap which will chuck into a 1/4" hex drive, use a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/4" socket to turn the tap, and then tap that 3/32" hole for 1/4-20 thread. Next, find or make a short 1/4-20 threaded stud to screw into the now threaded hole. NOW, you'll have a sturdy, easily removable stud to push the reverse light switch into position.

This approach served me very nicely. I plan to remove the stud for a little trimming, to better permit the column shifter its full range of movement, like, down to 1st gear, but aside from this flaw in my repair, it works very well. I didn't even need to remove the steering column, which is why I recommend the Klein tap, which you can buy with a set of small self drilling taps at any Klein tools vendor. Home Depot sells them, much as I loathe that evil corporation. Nice to purchase Made in U.S.A. steel tools!

I commend the effort to duplicate the original with a 3D printer, but recommend lost wax acrylic casting over this. Make a wax model, invest it in hard plaster, or dental "stone" (buff colored is the right grade). be sure to make the seam of the model lie midway into the plaster/stone when you invest it, boil it out, then press acrylic into the resulting hollow space. You can even reinforce the model with steel wire, so that when adding the acrylic, your pin will be stronger than the original.

There be many ways to flay a feline bro!

thanks for the advice @Gerald Morris . Any chance you have a link to the tap you are referring to? Maybe a pic of your set up??

I too am trying this with removing the column. It feels like I am working blind at times. The tap set I have is too tall to work in this cramped conditions at that end of the column. While I do have an original pin that I have been using for the model. If the 3D print is ultimately a failure, I am sure many on here would like to know more about the alternative method you describ above.

Thank you!

 

[Gerald Morris]

Here bro: Klein Tools High Speed Steel Drill Tap Tool Kit (4-Piece) 32383SEN - The Home Depot

Use the largest of these four taps, the 1/4-20 bit-tap combo. Chuck the 1/4" hex base into a 1/4" socket, driven by a 1/4" drive ratchet, make sure you're vertical, normal to the tangent to the plane of the 3/32" hole the pin goes into, tap that hole at least four complete rotations of the tap, to make sure you've cut the thread and cleared it down, and then you can insert a short 1/4" stud, which is best supported with a nut just where it touches the column. This takes shear stress off the threads.

 

[Gerald Morris]

FWIW, the reason I advise you to avoid removing the column unless you have other serious issues compelling it, is that the mount to the dash consists of fragile parts meant to make the column collapsible. If you MUST, do it, but I hate disturbing anything that fragile if I can avoid it.

 

[SPF Required]

I am tracking you now… thanks for the link to the tap!

 

[Gerald Morris]

I am tracking you now… thanks for the link to the tap!

Quite welcome! Once you get your switch working, get some good 1156 LEDs for the reverse lights. Or stick with the sort of pearly light of old school incandescents if you have a pair. I went to LEDs only because I wanted to be damned SURE fools in parking lots would NOTICE when I want to back up and to clear out of my path.

 

[SPF Required]

Good news on the reverse switch front. Finally got a legit 3D scan of the original and printed out some replicas. This batch was with the more brittle resin because that is what was already in the bath. It is a perfect copy:

 

[SPF Required]

And a perfect fit!

 

[SPF Required]

Even though this was the more brittle material, I decided to install the switch just to see if it will work. Figured if it doesn’t break, I will see how long it lasts.

 

[SPF Required]

Let there be light!

So excited!

 

[HWYCRZR]

I think you may have a winner there. Actually with the little head cap, it may be able to be re-used a couple of times unlike the original.

 

[Gerald Morris]

So long as it holds up, you have a winner copy! Collectors and purists can rejoice in the quality of your work; its that good.

 

[SPF Required]

Took the car out for a drive. Backing back into the garage so I had my son hop out and snap a pic. One happy dude here!