knockin or 'clunck' sound

Knebel

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2013
Messages
1,538
Reaction score
581
Location
Beaverton, Oregon
Hi there,

I have a weird knock going through the car when take off from a complete stop, come to a stop, or shift from park into reverse. It does this onetime 'clunck' sound and the takeoff/break situation also makes me feel it in the floorboard.

Weird is, i have been chasing the noise a while, have done an almost complete front suspension rebuild, only thing i didnt do was the lower control arm bushing cause i dont have a torsion bar tool. 2 weeks ago i put in new front shocks cause i could feel the knock on the shocks while bumping the car up and down on the front. With the new shocks, that improved a lot and there is no knock anymore when pushing up and down the front end to work the suspension.

Now, when i push down the rear right, so that the rear suspension on that side travels a lot, i dont hear the knock. On the drivers side rear, i can actually recreate the noise. Its a metallic click/clonk which I locate either somwhere under the driver door or more to the back towards the leafspring. I already tightend frame screwes, seat screwes, suspension bolts ect. I also flooded the leafs with wd40 but the noise is still there. Anyone has any advise on this? It reminds me a little of sticking breakpads or a loose bolt moving in a slightly larger hole.

Thank you for any help, Tobi
 
You have checked some of the easy ones and that is good. Have you checked the u-joints for noise or slop or rust dust coming out of the caps?
 
U-joints? Let me look in the repair manual to see what that is, i assume what holds the rear axle to the leafsprings? If so, yes, they are tight like they are welded on.


EDIT ok, nvm, no havent checked those. Last time i was under there they visually looked good, but i might cangrease them a bit.
 
Time for the ebay add & fresh photoshop pics. Seriously, recheck your leaf spring eyelets, the shocks (rear) and maybe the engine/trans mounts, u joints, third member (rear axle) worn out? Exhaust rattle?
 
sounds like u-joints to me too based on how it is acting, most likely either that or motor/trans mounts gone bad. I'd check the torsion bar bushings as well.
 
Rear axle was rebuild some years ago so I would rule that out, but you never know... U-joints look almost new and got some grease on them. Also no play in the u joints. Rear shocks are new too. I know the exhaust has a loose hanger at the tailpipe, but that actually sounds very different when Yank on it.

I was just under the car and checked the e-brake wire.. the balls in the splitter which splits the one into the two to the rear wheels were binding. Everytime i pulled the cable, it would make that clicky 'klonk' sound which carried through the cable all the way to the front to the floorboard. I took care of the binding with the dremel and the sound seems to be gone or at least better. I drive the car tomorrow and will report.
 
Ok, the E-Brake Cable was NOT it....

I made some tests this morning, the clunck sound appears on the Drivers side when i slowly and gradually apply the breaks to come to a stop. If i push them hard i cant hear it. I also hear it when I make a right turn, no foot on the gas or break and the body rolls back to straight out of the turn. Hmmm.
 
Transmission mount was a bit loose so i banged that on tight. I also inspected the u joint on the rear axle a little bit closer and i can see some movement, very little tho. Is that thing replaceable without taking the driveshaft out? Manual just says to take old spider and caps out and put new one in.
 
I always press them out with a socket on a vice. You might be able to rig up a C clamp under the car if your really determined to leave the drive shaft in. I've never tried that route though.
 
My car makes a slight knock when get a little heavy with the gas on take off....It's the engine mounts. Give them a looking into.
 
Thx. Will look into the motor mounts too. The more i really observe it, the more i notice that the knock shows up when breaking gradually, just not always so it is not too easy to recreate...
 
Clunking sound while breaking...I would checking your suspension components. Ball joints,control arm bushings,tie rod ends,idler arm,pittman arm, and wheel bearings while your at it. Oh, and your break components too naturally. Make sure to use jack stands and be sure to have the car supported properly before getting under there.
 
Clunking sound while breaking...I would checking your suspension components.
Ball joints, ----NEW
control arm bushings ----NEW
,tie rod ends ----NEW
,idler arm ----NEW
,pittman arm ----how to check?
and wheel bearings ----GREASED and ADJUSTED

Oh, and your break components too naturally. Make sure to use jack stands and be sure to have the car supported properly before getting under there.

Break components, would i be looking for sticking break shoes? I had the drums off recently and mechanically and visually it looked clean, the shoes have little cracks in them i saw, so they are next on the list. I will replace the u joint too of course. It wound just be nice if it was something simple....
 
Replaced the brake shoes all around. The backing plates on the drivers side had 2 worn spots with grooves on them on each wheel, also, there was NO lube present. The rear was pretty bad and i just roughly smoothend the one groove out so there was no edge where the brakeshoe would bind on. Should have welded it up but wasnt in the mood for it since i whacked myselfe in the face with pliers putting the other side togeter...
Anyways, Lubed the spots up and put everything together and i wish i could say the sound is gone.... well it has gotten less present and i dont hear it as often. I am surprised how good the car brakes now.
 
Ok that is weirding me out. I also hear that sound when there is weight transfere in curves. I also could hear a click or clunck sound before when i pushed down on the inner fenders. Could that maybe be the body flexing???
 
If you needed torsion bar bushings for the front control arms where would you get them?
 
Help, I have a 1966 Fury VIP that needs torsion bar bushings. Where can I get these?
 
If it does it going on a curve, when the weight unloads from one side to the other it may be sway bar bushings or links. That is if you have one.
 
Back
Top