My Rust Repair job just got a lot easier!
- Thread starter mr. fix it
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mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
It's worth a try for the price. I paid $30.00 each for mine.. Luckily the supplier took them back.
cm23uoc
Old Man with a Hat
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That's the ones I use as well. If you take care they last a very Long time (low rpm, a Little oil)
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Nnnoooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Wwwwwwhhhhhhyyyyyyyyyynnnnnooooottttttt?????????
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Harbor freight imported garbage, You get what you pay for. I used these before I discovered Blair and was dead in the water with them on the first day of use. Blair are made in the USA, right here in MI and I can honestly say that I almost completely drilled my '68 RR apart at the spot welds with the Blair product and didn't ***** about it once!
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Understood.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Ok here is my take on spot weld cutters. Never used one, haven't needed one.
That being said could I have used one? Maybe.
Let's use this floor pan as an example, something I have done. What I did was on the donor floor I just took a 1/2" drill and blew through the 80+ spot welds right into the substructure, who cares you're not using it. Total cost far less and time probably far less as well.
Now to the car, there are a few methods you can use here. First up cutout the section up to and around all substructures leaving only the strip one the substructure, typically a 1" strip.
No lift the strip up and roll it back till you see a spot weld, sometime it will just pop off. Now take a cutoff wheel and cut through the spot weld from between the pieces. Another way is to slide a body panel knife in and hammer it through the spot welds. Another way I have done is to just grind through them from the top.
About the only time I see using a spot weld cutter is when you are removing a panel and need to protect both pieces.
I may be no expert and have only done one car but I didn't see how getting a spot weld cutter was going to save me time and or money.
Alan
That being said could I have used one? Maybe.
Let's use this floor pan as an example, something I have done. What I did was on the donor floor I just took a 1/2" drill and blew through the 80+ spot welds right into the substructure, who cares you're not using it. Total cost far less and time probably far less as well.
Now to the car, there are a few methods you can use here. First up cutout the section up to and around all substructures leaving only the strip one the substructure, typically a 1" strip.
No lift the strip up and roll it back till you see a spot weld, sometime it will just pop off. Now take a cutoff wheel and cut through the spot weld from between the pieces. Another way is to slide a body panel knife in and hammer it through the spot welds. Another way I have done is to just grind through them from the top.
About the only time I see using a spot weld cutter is when you are removing a panel and need to protect both pieces.
I may be no expert and have only done one car but I didn't see how getting a spot weld cutter was going to save me time and or money.
Alan
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
From my experience when removing the rusty floor I don't use a spot weld cutter. I just rip and tear with a plasma cutter, grinder, sawzall die grinder or whatever works best. However when removing a good floor that will be reinstalled I do use good quality spot weld cutters. I have used a regular drill bit but it does take longer and is not as clean of a cut. The trick is have a good center punch and let the spot weld cutter do the work. If you start rushing it you might start breaking the cutters or the arbor but once you get on a roll it's pretty easy.
thrashingcows
Senior Member
I did several hundred spot welds many years ago when I restored a 68 Coronet 500 convertible. I used the spot weld cutter from Eastwoods. I bought their unit, plus 2 replacement tips. Think I went through the original tip, and finished with the second. Still have the spot weld cutter and the 2nd replacement tip in the tool box.
Stay away from those Harbour Freight units...Junk! I tried one out not long ago and it was a waste of time.
And as others have stated...good deep center punch first, then some cutting oil and low RPM.
Stay away from those Harbour Freight units...Junk! I tried one out not long ago and it was a waste of time.
And as others have stated...good deep center punch first, then some cutting oil and low RPM.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
Since we are on the subject of floor replacement and we all love pictures.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
WOW!!!All that with just a good coat of paint??
That was mighty nice of you to provide shade for the dog too!:icon_thumright:
That was mighty nice of you to provide shade for the dog too!:icon_thumright:
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
It was very thick paint! The dog was on guard duty! I told her nobody gets near the fresh paint.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
And done in 24 hours. Very good..... 
this is what i use. the idea is not to drill through the weld but to cut closely around it. the weld is a lot harder than the surrounding metal. when done take a 36-40 grit grinding disc and grind the weld down flush.
68blackbird
Active Member
Looks like an exorcism performed...very nice work indeed....
ceebuddy
Well-Known Member
Looks like most of the rust was exactly under the front seats. But why would it hit right there? Any explanation or theories?
Nice doggie Chris!
Dang, I wish I had 1/10th of your skill!!!
Dang, I wish I had 1/10th of your skill!!!
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
This car sat up on the Navajo Indian reservation in Northern Arizona for years with all the glass busted out of it. It filled with rain and snow for close to 20 years.
That'll do it! Find any 30-30 holez in that one Chris? Thatz where I first go on to the 3M metal glue, And the big Un-a-bore bitz, lol
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