What electric fuel pump for 1972 Newport conversion?

Henrius

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I am tired of fuel feed problems in this car. Outwardly I am keeping it originally looking, but trying to improve it mechanically. I want to change from a pump that sucks (pardon the pun!) to a pump that pushes fuel from the gas tank.

But I know nothing about electric fuel pumps. Modern ones are designed to pump under high pressure to injectors.

Are there any conversion kits that pump under lower pressure to carburetors? Also, do some pump go inside the tank, and others reside outside the tank.

Would be interested to hear from any of you that have converted C-bodies to electric fuel pumps, and what you used to do it. I will be replacing the dented gas tank at the same time.
 
I am tired of fuel feed problems in this car. Outwardly I am keeping it originally looking, but trying to improve it mechanically. I want to change from a pump that sucks (pardon the pun!) to a pump that pushes fuel from the gas tank.

But I know nothing about electric fuel pumps. Modern ones are designed to pump under high pressure to injectors.

Are there any conversion kits that pump under lower pressure to carburetors? Also, do some pump go inside the tank, and others reside outside the tank.

Would be interested to hear from any of you that have converted C-bodies to electric fuel pumps, and what you used to do it. I will be replacing the dented gas tank at the same time.
JEGS carries a variety of electric fuel pumps for vehicles with carbs. They have low pressure ones and mount outside of the tank,as well as some that mount inside.
 
JEGS carries a variety of electric fuel pumps for vehicles with carbs. They have low pressure ones and mount outside of the tank,as well as some that mount inside.

Thanks. Never heard of JEGS. Can you give me their web address/contact info?
 
Go to your local Napa or O'Riely auto parts and just get a Mr. Gasket or their house brand pulse pump. 3-5 psi and will have enough flow for a street driven fairly stock engine. I had one on my first car (65 4 door Fury) and never had any trouble out of it even when doing 100+ for quite a while on the highway. They are cheap and fairly quiet.
 
I don't understand why you think your mechanical pump sucks. Why does it suck? Is/are your problem(s) really related to your proven reliable by 1,000,000,000,000,000 pumps used out there? My money is on:
1. that it's not the pump, or...
2. you don't want to change the pump you have now because it's a pain in the *** to get at.

Google: Melling if it's really the pump.

Just trying to get your brain analyzing the whole situation.

I'm not really wise. I just think I am cuz I'm older. :D
 
I'd rather have a mechanical pump. Seems to me these electric pumps fail WAYY to often
 
A little while back I purchased a 1967 Valiant with a 273 and someone had put an electric fuel pump on it? There were NO other modifications, bone stock. I didn't want it so I hooked up the fuel pump that was still there but nothing, put on another pump that I already had, nothing, purchased a new pump, nothing? Not sure what made me think about it but I thought that maybe the eccentric was missing, after pulling the timing cover off I could see it was there but the cam bolt was about to fall off, the only thing keeping it on was the cover.

Because of that the eccentric was not on the key and not spinning. Tighten it all up and it worked.


Alan

2004-05-14_12.jpg
 
I don't understand why you think your mechanical pump sucks. Why does it suck? Is/are your problem(s) really related to your proven reliable by 1,000,000,000,000,000 pumps used out there? My money is on:
1. that it's not the pump, or...
2. you don't want to change the pump you have now because it's a pain in the *** to get at.

Google: Melling if it's really the pump.

Just trying to get your brain analyzing the whole situation.

I'm not really wise. I just think I am cuz I'm older. :D

Changing the pump is no hassle and I have done that many times.

I have had fuel starvation problems with this car for so long. I have replaced actuator rods, filters, carbaurator, etc. I have replaced all the rubber fuel tubing connected to the metal tubing, tubing, and retightened to make sure connections are not leaking.

I would rather keep it original, but no mechanic can figure the problem out. Starvation occurs at LOW RPM. My guess is that small leaks in various places allow bubbles in the line. At low RPM, not enough fuel is delivered and the carb starves out. When it quits, I check, and the carb bowl is empty.

I figure that an electric fuel pump that pushes intead of pulls fuel, running at a speed independent of engine RPM, is the easiest way to solve the problem for good.
 
I figure that an electric fuel pump that pushes intead of pulls fuel, running at a speed independent of engine RPM, is the easiest way to solve the problem for good.

This is where many people end up going the wrong way in thought processes. You are correct that an electric pump pushes but that is what it does. A mechanical pump will pull fuel to the pump then push it to the carb. If you do not mount the fuel pump (electric) low enough your problems will get worse! They are pushers. They do not have a great ability to pull the fuel up then down to the pump. That is why fuel cells have the sump in them so the pump doesn't have to try to pull fuel to it. With a factory set up engine wise you are much better off with a mechanical pump. The sending unit is at the top of the tank so the pump has to pull fuel uphill then to the pump. The diaphram in the mechanical pump is designed to do this. Electric pumps do not have this in them and sometimes can and probably will struggle to get fuel to the pump.
 
This is where many people end up going the wrong way in thought processes. You are correct that an electric pump pushes but that is what it does. A mechanical pump will pull fuel to the pump then push it to the carb. If you do not mount the fuel pump (electric) low enough your problems will get worse! They are pushers. They do not have a great ability to pull the fuel up then down to the pump. That is why fuel cells have the sump in them so the pump doesn't have to try to pull fuel to it. With a factory set up engine wise you are much better off with a mechanical pump. The sending unit is at the top of the tank so the pump has to pull fuel uphill then to the pump. The diaphram in the mechanical pump is designed to do this. Electric pumps do not have this in them and sometimes can and probably will struggle to get fuel to the pump.

Thanks for your wisdom. There is one thing I haven't done- pull the tank and inspect for rust particles. The tank is old and has some corrosion inside. Similar corrosion stopped my 1973 Pinto recently- fine rust particles even made it past the filter. I am going to have a shop blast and seal the tank inside, then reinstall it. Then I am going to put on an extra rebuilt carb. If that does not solve the problem, I have just got to go the electric fuel pump route.
 
bringing this thread back as its nearest to my issue and question that I can find in the search function

I have been chasing a fuel starvation issue since I got my 65 back in November - Ive had the tank dipped and refurbished, replaced mechanical fuel pump twice, replaced fuel lines, replaced fuel pump pushrod and I still have a fuel delivery problem. At this point Im thinking the cam lobe might be an issue but not going into the motor now. Therefore I am looking to put an electric pump in to see if this eliminates the problem and allows the car to be driven.

Ive seen someone recommend Napa - anybody have a part number to reference for a quality unit - quiet/reliable? thank you
 
Please describe this "fuel delivery problem" that you descibe as a fuel starvation diet.
What exactly is happening?
 
Please describe this "fuel delivery problem" that you descibe as a fuel starvation diet.
What exactly is happening?

I have a fuel filter with viewable site glass before fuel pump and between pump and carb.

When I turn over the engine, gas will begin to fill up the filter between pump and carb enough to start the vehicle but not all the way (it did fill up all the way after replacing the fuel pump both times, but quickly starts to run out) the filter before pump never fills.

The vehicle runs enough to drive but pops on deceleration and acts like running out of gas at WOT

At this point I have had the gas tank boiled and sealed professionally, new sending unit and pickup, new screen, new fuel hard and soft lines, 2 new fuel pumps, and a new pushrod from Mancini - the previous pushrod showed slight wear but no mushrooming.

it seems to me that the cam lobe that drives the pushrod is the only thing I have not tried to change at this point - but id rather avoid pulling the cam at this point and if it is the source of the problem installing an electric fuel pump would bypass the mechanism
 
readin about alota issues re fuelpump rods...electric pump soundin like wise bet....
 
I electrified my 1971 Monaco (440) a few years ago. I contacted PEGASUS auto racing for their ideas for my (street) use. (I knew nothing about anything) They recommended a Facet Gold-Flo #476087E (4.0 to 5.5 psi, 1.6 amp avg draw, 36gph) not cheap at just under $100 but I'm hoping that it has quality that won't let me down and it features a removable filter on the body. I mounted it at the tank and am really happy with it's performance. Again, I had no experience to draw from or to compare any other pumps but relied on the advise of those who knew. Also, Big_ John posted some extensive wiring details and diagram today, Feb 24th. It isn't the only way to wire the pump but it sure works well for me. If any of this sounds interesting to you I'd be happy to pass along further information. My Monaco is not a street racer set up.
 
I electrified my 1971 Monaco (440) a few years ago. I contacted PEGASUS auto racing for their ideas for my (street) use. (I knew nothing about anything) They recommended a Facet Gold-Flo #476087E (4.0 to 5.5 psi, 1.6 amp avg draw, 36gph) not cheap at just under $100 but I'm hoping that it has quality that won't let me down and it features a removable filter on the body. I mounted it at the tank and am really happy with it's performance. Again, I had no experience to draw from or to compare any other pumps but relied on the advise of those who knew. Also, Big_ John posted some extensive wiring details and diagram today, Feb 24th. It isn't the only way to wire the pump but it sure works well for me. If any of this sounds interesting to you I'd be happy to pass along further information. My Monaco is not a street racer set up.

im interested in the diagram Eyemon - thanks. Ill also check out your pump as I haven't picked one yet - how is noise on the unit you have?
 
I don't know how noisy other pumps are so I can't compare. Without the engine running I can hear it but I think that is good because I am able to hear it slightly change pitch as the carb reaches "full" and the needle valves shut down the flow. That lets me know when to activate the starter. Rubber isolaters are available as an accessory but I don't use them. If you go to search and enter "simple electric fuel pump wiring" you will find a wiring diagram and a lot of information that Big_John was kind enough to post for me. If it interest's you further I'd be happy to send all of that and more to you via USPS if you give me a mailing address in private messages
Certainly the diagram that I use isn't the only one but it is simple, functionable, and easy, so I believe that it is worth looking at.
 
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