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Senator,
Thank you for that diagram... I'm a show me kinda guy.
I like it cuz it's simple. But why keep the red wire at all?
Are there some other connections?
I need to get my FSM out and do some studying.
GregC
 
The red wire, as it comes through the firewall, is there to feed the dashboard, interior lights etc.

IMHO, you don't need to bypass the ammeter. By wiring the starter relay directly to the alternator, you have bypassed most of the current draw across the ammeter. In other words, the only current across the ammeter is the draw from the interior of the car. The needle won't move as much, but it can still be a good indication of how things are working (or not working).

I also would not disconnect the ammeter..... If you want to bypass it, put a jumper wire across the two connections. Some cars have a connection in the circuit board that takes power from the ammeter connection. Not all... some do, some don't.

One other thing, install a volt meter.
 
Just had a "duh" moment.... as I was reviewing what I posted, I saw 70 300 vert screen name.

I just so happen to have the dash out of my 70 300 convertible and it doesn't have a circuit board or anything else connected to the ammeter connections. So... you could disconnect the ammeter, but running a jumper is just as good.

I still think it's best to leave it hooked up and working.
 
Big John,
I am installing a trio of real gauges and wanted to do the bypass surgery at the same time. Thanks for your insight. My ammeter on my 71 Newport barely deflects at all whereas the one on the 70 vert goes from peg to peg almost...
Cheers.
 
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