Optional Heater Control Valve for Better AC cooling.

[66/440]

I thought I would share my experience on using a different heater control valve to help your AC cool a little better.
As most of you are aware there is always some hot water in the heater core from leakage past the heater control valve and due to heat transmission from the water in the engine block on the opposite side of the heater core from the valve.
There is a heater control valve that will over come this issue as it has 4 ports and totally isolates the heater core so your AC does not have to fight the heater core, even if it is on a reduced scale.

The heater control valves from the mid 80's Dodge turbo Daytona's work great for this purpose. it is inexpensive and easy to install. Here is a photo of the one I most recently installed. Because it functions as a closed loop until the valve is actuated there is no flow of water into the heater core in the AC mode.
Just thought with summer coming on it may help make a 4 to 6 degree difference in your outlet air.

 

[commando1]

I wish you had How-To pics. Sounds interesting.

 

[66/440]

I wish you had How-To pics. Sounds interesting.

Link to operation of four port heater control valve operational theory.
https://www.thermotion.com/4-port-electronic-heater-control-valve-pn-354-69694

I am also using the 3M crystalline film, AND a blower motor wiring up grade, I will post the tutorial from another site if you are interested. With the Sanden conversion there has been a really nice increase in cooling power.

Link to Motor Trend article on 3M Crystalline:
http://wot.motortrend.com/3ms-window-films-block-heat-uv-rays-dark-tint-77391.html#ixzz1MH2xvMJD

 

[66/440]

I need to clarify that the link I provided was for an example only. The valve I am using is vacuum controlled and works perfectly with no modifications.

 

[66/440]

I wish you had How-To pics. Sounds interesting.

Here are better shots of the four port valve hooked up.
The two hoses on the bottom are the in and out from the engine.
The hoses on top are the in and out for the heater core.

Second photo shows the vacuum pot with the same single vacuum hose that normally operates the diaphragm on your current set up.
I did notice that there is a 4 port valve that is metal and plastic rather than all plastic that was offered for the "95 to "00 Chevy trucks, Tahoe, Silverado etc. It is about $10 more.

 

[ceebuddy]

Just thinking: If you have an Auto Temp II system with a broken servo assembly and you don't want to shell out big bucks for an aluminum repro unit, while climate in your area calls at least for heating in the not-so-warm seasons, then this four-port electronically controlled heater valve might be a solution.

Perhaps the mandatory Control Module even hooks up right to the potentiometer in the dash control unit (not sure about the original potentiometer's rsistance range). So then at least you'd have control over heating without too many changes to the car. Would cost around $160, plus your time to install it.

Only problem is that one nipple of the original servo/valve has a smaller diameter. But Thermotion offers a two-port valve, too.

Oh, and still no A/C then.