Caliper bolts for 1970 300 Convertible

[Shivasdad]

I got a set of calipers for a 1970 300 convertible. It came stock with disc brakes, but my customer wanted all new parts, and I agreed. The calipers came with bolts/pins that fit, but on two of them the shoulders were 1.5 inches and the other two the shoulders were 1.25. Overall length and threads were the same. The short ones fit best, taking up tension on the positioners and keeping everything centered. The long ones actually match the old ones that were on the car but allow the positioners to flop around. They will keep the brakes secure, but I fear they will make a lot of noise from the positioner and the pads being allowed to float around too much.

The local auto parts stores call for the longer shank. I can't find a list on line of caliper bolts with dimensions to assist in getting some that will work better. Should I just stretch the positioners out? Put a washer/spacer at the head end to put a little pressure on the positioner? This has me stumped.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[68plymouth383]

Welcome to the forum! ! I'd check with your local bolt and screw manufacturer. Or even fastenal. Just bring in the 1 1/4" bolt and tell them you need these. I'd get a grade 8 for strength. A grade 5 would work. If I'am replacing hardware I always go stronger.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

The positioners are anti rattle clips but they make the pads drag some and after all these years most have lost their tension. If it were my car I would omit them but I don't think that is a option with your case. I think the bolt/pin is a crap shoot from different suppliers.

 

[ceebuddy]

The Positioners were always a mystery to me. What are they supposed to position?

Not the brake pads, I guess, disk brakes will work without them. The rubber seal around the piston with its square profile is enugh to pull the caliper that tiny littlebit required.

I bought a set of replacement pins with rubber bushings, no positioners. The bushings are different, they have a collar on both ends, while I think the orignal ones only have a collar on the outer end. I never bothered to install these bushings, looked like too much trouble.

But my theory is that the original positioners are there to prevent the original rubber bushings from slowly moving out of the caliper. Or perhaps I am totally wrong.

 

[Shivasdad]

Thanks guys, for all the replies. The positioners I have are definitely without tension. I flattened one with my fingers, thinking it would be made of spring steel. I guess my best bet is to stretch them out and let them do their thing while they can. Finding a list of caliper pins with dimensions like you can with lug nuts has proven impossible. I know it won't affect the brake function. I'll just tell the owners to turn the radio up if they rattle.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

they can be found on ebay, and they have the modern bail positioners.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261813104290

I have seen others but this is all I found with the current search.


Alan

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Looks from the picture/drawing that they would keep the rubber bushings in but I have never had one come out and would probably glue it if it was a problem.

 

[mobileparts]

You indicated that you wanted to go with NEW parts -- I have N.O.S. ++ American Made ++ Front HUB & ROTOR Assemblies
for the 1969 - 1972 "C" Bodies and N.O.S. ++ ASBESTOS ++ Brake Pads ---- such that you don't "rip up" these rotors with
this new "garbage" friction material brake pads.......