1969 Imperial progress thread

[vdk2010]

I have a few questions...


What's the best way to remove this leed stuff??? Is it the best way to use a torch? Is a propane torch good enough for this, because I don't have another one...


I was able to find a supplier for the original M9 deep plum paint from Nexa, which is a PPG company. How many liters paint will I need for the whole car? Had it one or two layers from the factory?

Which exhaust diameter should I use for the 440 engine? The tti 3"? Is there a performance loss when the diameter is to small? A buddy is using 2" pipes and the motor seems a little powerless. And what's the "best" muffler to get the stock sound?


Update on the car?
...still grinding ........ ........ ........ ........



All these small, tight places are not fun to grind... But the outside of the car is now completely stripped. (I just have the sandblast the small spots I can't reach with the grinder.)

 

[Ripinator]

I have a few questions...

View attachment 58704
What's the best way to remove this leed stuff??? Is it the best way to use a torch? Is a propane torch good enough for this, because I don't have another one...


I was able to find a supplier for the original M9 deep plum paint from Nexa, which is a PPG company. How many liters paint will I need for the whole car? Had it one or two layers from the factory?

Which exhaust diameter should I use for the 440 engine? The tti 3"? Is there a performance loss when the diameter is to small? A buddy is using 2" pipes and the motor seems a little powerless. And what's the "best" muffler to get the stock sound?


Update on the car?
...still grinding ........ ........ ........ ........

View attachment 58702
View attachment 58703
All these small, tight places are not fun to grind... But the outside of the car is now completely stripped. (I just have the sandblast the small spots I can't reach with the grinder.)

As usual, I stand in awe of you, Vodka.

 

[Big_John]

The lead can be melted out with a propane torch.

The 3" TTI system isn't necessary. There will be no power gains with that size over 2 1/2" in your case. That's assuming you aren't planning on some killer motor... LOL.

I can't answer your paint questions... But it will help the paint guys out there if you can tell them if it will be single stage or basecoat/clearcoat.

 

[vdk2010]

The lead can be melted out with a propane torch.

The 3" TTI system isn't necessary. There will be no power gains with that size over 2 1/2" in your case. That's assuming you aren't planning on some killer motor... LOL.

I can't answer your paint questions... But it will help the paint guys out there if you can tell them if it will be single stage or basecoat/clearcoat.

Ok, I will try the propane torch then!

I will tune the motor to get a few more horsepower, but no killer motor here ;)
But 2" is too small for the engine, I guess?

I will use the original single stage paint. I was able to find the original ppg paint. It's 100€ a litre, so I don't want to but too much.

 

[68plymouth383]

Yeah 2" dual exhaust is for small blocks. The bare minimum on a 440 is dual exhaust 2 1/4" diameter.

 

[patrick66]

If you do melt that lead, ensure you have a proper mask, as the lead fumes are bad, as I'm sure you already know. It looks like it's coming right along! Ich bin in Ehrfurcht vor, was Sie erreicht haben! (I had to look up part of that!)

 

[MrMoparCHP]

I have a few questions...

View attachment 58704
What's the best way to remove this leed stuff??? Is it the best way to use a torch? Is a propane torch good enough for this, because I don't have another one...

Here is how my body guy did it.

Alan

 

[vdk2010]

I will buy the 3" exhaust because it's not that much more expensive then. If there is no down side using it with a stock motor. I have to check how to install it because stock is only a single exhaust... There is only space for the pipe on the right side of the gastank.
What's the benefit of a x-pipe over a h-pipe?

I have a full 3m reusable resperator for grinding, this will work for the lead removal also I guess.

Thanks Alan. What did he use to fill the the spots afterwards? I've heard about tin metallic filler?! Is this the way to go?

No guisses about the amount of paint I'll need?

 

[ceebuddy]

Hi Julian, I agree with the posting that there is probably no significant performance advantage of a dual 3" exhaust pipe over a dual 2.5" dual pipe. Standard was 2.5" single exhaust and that might have choked the engine a little. But double that and you should be good to go. 3" pipes might look a little overdone, but that's a matter of personal taste.

On C-Bodies optionally available with dual exhaust, such as the 300 with TNT engine, the passenger side pipe would not go next to the gas tank. Since on dual exhaust systems there were no resonators in the back, both pipes would hang a little lower (and a little more outward compared to the stock single exhaust location next to the gas tank), suspended by hangers mounted to the ├┘-shaped part of the rear frame rail(s).

 

[vdk2010]

Means safe the 100 bucks for another part. Good plan ;)

 

[detmatt]

What's a liter???

 

[traintech55]

Great Car. My father used to own one. I was in a bad accident in it, not my fault. The car saved my life. Good luck.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Remove lead like Alan has shown, neutralize any rust in the seam with some sort of phosphoric acid then paint the seam with a decent paint not primer then use a all metal type of epoxy filler to smooth seam, plastic filler for final finish leveling. This is what I have done in the past. I am not a professional body man so don't take it as gospel.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

I will buy the 3" exhaust because it's not that much more expensive then. If there is no down side using it with a stock motor. I have to check how to install it because stock is only a single exhaust... There is only space for the pipe on the right side of the gastank.
What's the benefit of a x-pipe over a h-pipe?

I have a full 3m reusable resperator for grinding, this will work for the lead removal also I guess.

Thanks Alan. What did he use to fill the the spots afterwards? I've heard about tin metallic filler?! Is this the way to go?

No guisses about the amount of paint I'll need?

With the amount of rust in the area around it we chose to just patch, standard body filler was used to clean it up as was it on the rockers.

I do not recall how much black I got, I want to say 2 gallons.


Alan

 

[vdk2010]

What's a liter???

Apologies! I had a softdring in my hand and mixed things up. ;)

 

[vdk2010]

Remove lead like Alan has shown, neutralize any rust in the seam with some sort of phosphoric acid then paint the seam with a decent paint not primer then use a all metal type of epoxy filler to smooth seam, plastic filler for final finish leveling. This is what I have done in the past. I am not a professional body man so don't take it as gospel.

Why the paint before using the filler? I've read that filler will stick best on bare metal?!

With the amount of rust in the area around it we chose to just patch, standard body filler was used to clean it up as was it on the rockers.

I do not recall how much black I got, I want to say 2 gallons.

Alan

I will use a rust converter on the whole body, then sand everything again with 120 grid to have a good base for the epoxy basecoat. I thought about spraying the whole car with POR15 for rust inhibition. Will the 2k epoxy stick to POR15?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Filler is pourous and has trapped air, air has oxygen, oxygen causes rust. Never put filler on bare metal.

 

[commando1]

 

[vdk2010]

I saw this, but it's "just" a primer. They recomend to use their Rust Preventive Paint underneath. And for a regular self-etching primer, it's pretty expensive.

 

[vdk2010]

Filler is pourous and has trapped air, air has oxygen, oxygen causes rust. Never put filler on bare metal.

That's good to know! And you say I shouldn't use 2k epoxy primer underneath also? That was initially my plan as the first step.