The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
Same here. Ours failed when tuning my dad's Satellite. The car died, he went to the garage to get some more tools, and poof! The ignition module died.
383 upgrades
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That's good to know, for this I do not mind increasing my paranoia.
65Fury440
Senior Member
It sounds like you really want to use that carb. It really isn't a good match for any other component on your engine.
What will happen with too big a carb, it will bog and lose low end torque. You will actually lose power. Plugging in the numbers, 383 CI x 5500 max rpm/ 3450=609.5 ideal CFM x .9 VE= 548 real needed CFMs
If you could get right cam (Magnum ish) , aftermarket intake, elec ignition, headers, your motor would scream. If you choose a couple wrong parts, it will be a turd.
$400 isnt much coin to really make a dent in a project. I would concentrate on following the factory route with electronic ignition, 4 bbl intake and a Magnum spec cam. You can trade that big carb off, here's a link to a possible option for you.
Factory Refurbished Street Demon 1900 625CFM 4bbl Carb
Good luck with your build!!
What will happen with too big a carb, it will bog and lose low end torque. You will actually lose power. Plugging in the numbers, 383 CI x 5500 max rpm/ 3450=609.5 ideal CFM x .9 VE= 548 real needed CFMs
If you could get right cam (Magnum ish) , aftermarket intake, elec ignition, headers, your motor would scream. If you choose a couple wrong parts, it will be a turd.
$400 isnt much coin to really make a dent in a project. I would concentrate on following the factory route with electronic ignition, 4 bbl intake and a Magnum spec cam. You can trade that big carb off, here's a link to a possible option for you.
Factory Refurbished Street Demon 1900 625CFM 4bbl Carb
Good luck with your build!!
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
BGarff
Member
Thank you, I think I'll put the 830 up for sale then. It'll also give me like 500 extra bucks so that wont hurt
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
Suggestion: If it's $140 for the Pertronix 1 & Flamethrower coil I'd consider getting the Proform Electronic Dizzy with control unit, harness etc. from Summit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66993/overview/
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Not odd at all.
Developed the same aversion when I was 17 and fried the points on a customer's car. My boss instilled that aversion...
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The thing about the pertronix is that once installed you're hard pressed to tell that you're not still running points and it looks right. No extra boxes to mount anywhere. If I were openly converting to electronic I would only use Mopar parts.
Landyacht
Active Member
On a $400 budget I would leave it the way it is.Best upgrades for a 2bbl 66 383? I already have a holley 830hp carb. $400 budget on hop-ups not including the carb. I have bo problem tearing apart the motor as its already on the stand.
65Fury440
Senior Member
Really, a 383 2 bbl is 270 hp and 390 tq.The smart thing to do would be upgrade to electronic ign and call it good.
I wouldn't follow my own advice though, some of us want to do it the hard way. If you do decide to make the motor more powerful, just be aware that it usually never stops.
If you put a bigger cam in, you need bigger intake and exhaust manifolds. Don't forget that new 4 bbl carb.
The $400 thing, yea, if you're that tight for money, put it somewhere else that's needed.
You'll be happy without that big ole carb though...sell it and buy some other stuff!
I had mine rebuilt 100% stock and it was over 4 grand...
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
I do agree detmatt - I initially got a Pertronix II and Flamethrower coil and was going to do the upgrade, but since I found that my vac adv diaphragm is leaking and uncertain whether there may be other issues with the stock dizzy (worn bearing etc.) I decided I'd be better off going with the Proform. It may not be Mopar, but it's full electronic with the same type control box as OEM and I can keep the old stock coil in place. The only give away would be a new shiny billet looking dizzy and someone knowing EI's didn't come on my car. As far as extra work, I think it'll be easier to mount the control box, two screws - zip zip, than it would be to remove the points, install the Pertronix igniter, swap out the coil and run a wire to the ballast etc. For me, I'm not too concerned if someone looks under my hood and say, "oh that's not original, your year didn't come with EI or it's not a Mopar EI"... I did a front disc conversion, added a rear sway bar and just installed tubular control arms so the car is getting less and less original, but the safety and modern upgrade factor is what's more important to me... Just my two penny's
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Thankfully There are many ways to do things the right way.
BGarff
Member
BigFury
Well-Known Member
Basic dual plane or a cast iron unit will work just fine. Call Jim Dowell at Racer Brown for the right cam for your application. An 800 carb will drown a stock 383. $400 won't take you too far if you start pulling heads etc.. hit some swap meets..
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
It would not be a first choice on a stock or close engine but if you got it use it.
Okay saw last post Doh, how much for 830?
Landyacht
Active Member
That carb is designed for high end street use on engines with 240 plus degrees duration cams and engines pulling 8 inches vacuum at idle. That carb would work good with a fairly radical cam ,lots of stall and a really high gear ratio. On a mild engine not so good. You need to take your time and do your research on these things. I would recommend you purchase some books on performance engine building and pour through as much literature as possible and develop a good understanding on performance builds. It will help save you money in the long run and you will get positive results the first time. You need a clear goal as to what you are looking for in performance gains. If you are looking to get this car on the road and running in the very near future I would keep the motor bone stock put it back in the car and just drive it. If you want to make power gains keep saving your money over the next couple of years and slowly accumulate the parts. It took me over two years to build my engine. If you have the patience and are willing to wait that long you will be much better off and much happier with the final results.Just bought this last night for $350. Its a 600HP that is CNC-ed to around 670cfm. Now with selling the 830hp I'll have an $800 motor budget. Also, it already has elec. Ignition. Pertronix II and flamethrower coil. So I'm figuring, intake manifold, cam, torque converter, and some super-cheap headers that I can bend to fit. Probably should've mentioned that I'm not worried about keeping it stock.
Here's what I did to my 68 2bbl 383.....
Comp cams 268H,Edelbrock Performer intake,750 carb,with electric choke.1/2 inch spacer,heat crossover blocked off. Cloyes double roller timing chain,Summit electronic ignition kit (has a good curve for today's gas).
TTi 2-1/2 inch exhaust system hooked to factory HP logs.
Original 906 heads hardened valve seats.
Hope this helps
Comp cams 268H,Edelbrock Performer intake,750 carb,with electric choke.1/2 inch spacer,heat crossover blocked off. Cloyes double roller timing chain,Summit electronic ignition kit (has a good curve for today's gas).
TTi 2-1/2 inch exhaust system hooked to factory HP logs.
Original 906 heads hardened valve seats.
Hope this helps
440_Magnum
Member
Add me to the list of "an 830 mech secondary carb is too much" camp. With mechanical secondaries, you gotta keep the carb smallish or it'll fall flat on its face when you stomp it. Vacuum secondaries or or an air-valve carb (AVS, Thermoquad, Rochester Quadrajet) work far better most of the time, unless you are prepared to spend a lot of tweaking to get the throttle tip-in and accelerator pump shots tweaked just right. My personal favorite is the AVS (or the modern equivalent Edelbrock Thunder Series). Holley and I just don't get along well, though I know others like them and they are very tunable.
So on your $400 budget, you gotta be careful. That pretty much means keep your heads, pistons, etc. because tearing that far in will eat the budget fast. I'd sell the 830 carb and buy an AVS (or a vacuum secondary Holley, if you must), get a cam/lifter set, custom exhaust (with or without headers as budget allows or doesn't), upgraded timing chain set while you're doing the cam, and electronic ignition. Boom: fun on a budget.
So on your $400 budget, you gotta be careful. That pretty much means keep your heads, pistons, etc. because tearing that far in will eat the budget fast. I'd sell the 830 carb and buy an AVS (or a vacuum secondary Holley, if you must), get a cam/lifter set, custom exhaust (with or without headers as budget allows or doesn't), upgraded timing chain set while you're doing the cam, and electronic ignition. Boom: fun on a budget.
Fratzog
Old Man with a Hat
That's a good deal.
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