I didnt think so but the guy that did it has a Mopar resume 40 years and a mile long.
The last engine I had rebuilt was built for speed and that cost me just over 4 grand. Of course that was in 1988 and 25% of that cost was in head work
383 upgrades
- Thread starter BGarff
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I didnt think so but the guy that did it has a Mopar resume 40 years and a mile long.
The last engine I had rebuilt was built for speed and that cost me just over 4 grand. Of course that was in 1988 and 25% of that cost was in head work
Fratzog
Old Man with a Hat
If he did it right you will be driving it until you lose your licence. Went with the same level of expertise with my current build. Although he's races GM's he builds everything in his shop.
BGarff
Member
Im looking for a cam with around_.500-.540 lift, 2400 stall, and the car already has a 3.55 suregrip. The carb also has annular accelerator boosters so that also helps. I'm looking for around a 6000 redline and I'm looking at some intake manifolds to pick up.
saylor
Senior Member
my first car when I was 16 had a 750 double pumper on a 351 Windsor motor. if you put the pedal to the floor off a stop light, it would die instantly.
we all did it, so go ahead if you have to learn the hard way
try not to die -
- saylor
we all did it, so go ahead if you have to learn the hard way
try not to die -
- saylor
65Fury440
Senior Member
Don't forget matching valve springs. What are the casting numbers of the heads you're using?
While the springs are off, put new seals in.
You really need to talk to someone smart about what cam to use. If you are going log exhaust manifolds, you need a whole different cam than if you are going headers.
Your enthusiasm is great, but there are some really great minds here that can help you do it right once. ( I do not consider myself that caliber but I'll help with what i can).
I did the same build you are doing twice in the late 70s, and would be happy to talk to you about it. PM me your phone number if you want, I'll call you.
Probably want to start hitting some swap meets, you can probably get used speed parts for half of what they are new.
-Doug
While the springs are off, put new seals in.
You really need to talk to someone smart about what cam to use. If you are going log exhaust manifolds, you need a whole different cam than if you are going headers.
Your enthusiasm is great, but there are some really great minds here that can help you do it right once. ( I do not consider myself that caliber but I'll help with what i can).
I did the same build you are doing twice in the late 70s, and would be happy to talk to you about it. PM me your phone number if you want, I'll call you.
Probably want to start hitting some swap meets, you can probably get used speed parts for half of what they are new.
-Doug
BGarff
Member
Haha I'll try not to die. The new carb now is between 600 and 670cfm now so I think it should pair nicely with a decent cam and such
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You'll need a bigger carb with a cam like that...
BigFury
Well-Known Member
I think there's been alot of sound advice given on this thread from many experienced people. Sometimes seeing is believeing and only then can you start to learn. Horsepower costs money and $400 won't get you far.. swap meets are your best bet. Good luck
65Fury440
Senior Member
So there was an old bull and a young bull on a hill, looking down at a herd of heifers...
That's a good deal. 383's are more expensive to rebuild compared to 440's.
I don't know why,but that was what I experienced.
My 383 cost 6 grand. However,I had to bore the cylinders out to 40 thou which means new pistons...Cha Ching.
Decked the block,balanced and blueprinted.
ARP studs for the mains,and ARP rod bolts.
The cost included rebuilding the original 906 heads with hardened valve seats and stainless valves with a back cut and opened up the bowls.It snowballed after that with proper valve springs to match my cam,etc,etc.
When I did my 440 ten years ago,it was only 2500.00.Parts were more attainable for the 440. For some reason 383 specific parts can be expensive like the pistons.
As mentioned by others,the $400.00 budget is very tight .Best upgrades for a 2bbl 66 383? I already have a holley 830hp carb. $400 budget on hop-ups not including the carb. I have bo problem tearing apart the motor as its already on the stand.
I agree with others sell the 830 Holley and get a different carb.
I finished up a side project recently (66 300) that has a 383 using factory cam and pistons.
In short I did a top end rebuild.
Rebuilt 452 heads,Lo-po log manifolds,TTi 2-1/2 system,68-70 factory iron intake manifold with heat cross over blocked. Edelbrock 625 carb,electric choke and 1/2 inch spacer,Pertronix ignition.
The used intake cost me 25.00,used carb 125.00.The 452 heads were already done and were extras from a buddy and was lucky they cost 200.00.
I surpassed your budget by a mile,but my point is it works and works very well with the tame factory cam and pistons.
The 66 4bbl intake is so anemic it sits flat compared to the 68-70 intake which has a rise and is better matched to the 906-452 heads.The 67 and older castings cylinder heads have small valves and do not flow as well as the 452-906 heads.
The open chamber of the 452 heads dropped the compression a wee bit but that is better for todays corn swill they call gasoline and its lower octane quality.
Hope this helps.
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I just had my 383 rebuilt and was nowhere near that much, new Pistons too.
And mine is a 2 barrel. ..... it hurt but had to be done. Not only was the builder being paid but so was the shop owner so there were multiple hands that had to get paid..
moper
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The last 383 2bbl I did on a teenager's budget was a '68 383 4bbl, a used 340's AVS carb, a small MP cam (would NOT use one these days because there's much better out there), true duals on the factory logs, a 175hp NO2 system, and eventually a Jacobs ignition. A full rebuild will cost thousands and the difference between a 2bbl and 4bbl is pretty much none assuming the engines are complete to start with. I wouldn't use stock pistons in any 383 build, and given some performance improvements I wouldn't quote one for under $5K now. But, that would get you anything from totally stock to about 425hp.
Landyacht
Active Member
Performer RPM is a good intake. As for choosing a cam Intake duration at .050 lift is what you should be looking for. With your gear and stall I wouldn't go with more than 230 degrees duration at .050 lift.
Landyacht
Active Member
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet & Lifter Kit - Chrysler 361-440 Three Bolt 268/276 - Lunati Power This cam might be a good choice for you.
BGarff
Member
And that should work well with the 650cfm, right?
Landyacht
Active Member
It might not be the perfect match but it should still work pretty decent. You can always upgrade to a 750 later on down the road.
BGarff
Member
I read that a single plane would be the way to go because it give off more high-end hp. The 383 has enough torque to rip a building off it's joists so I'm trying to focus on making more hp vs. Tq
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
But torque is more fun...
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