New Toy - 1968 Plymouth Fury III

[furyfever]

Hogshead...I take it, is the fill plug? Just unscrew it and stick my finger down in there...to see if I get any oil on it? Could I also just insert a long stick in there as well that will go all the way to the bottom to see if it's bone dry? I was kind of surprised to see the plug is 1/2 way up on the passenger side. Obviously the pumpkin only needs to be 1/2 full then?

Thanks guys...

Bob

 

[Polara_500]

Actually the hogshead is the entire center section. To remove that you have to start by removing wheels, axles, driveshaft, etc.. The fill plug is just the fill plug, and it's right when the car is sitting level and rear gear lube just seeps out over the bottom lip. In your case, pop it and feel for fluid first. If you don't find any I'd try putting the rear wheels up, dropping the driveshaft and then try rotating - it shouldn't be too hard to turn and you know it's just the rear end.

 

[66300]

You might want to check your brake hoses. I had the same problem last summer with my 66 300, the brake hose was rotten inside and holding the fluid instead of releasing it. After awhile it would release. I replaced all three hoses.

 

[saforwardlook]

Just when I was thinking that cars like this would be a very rare sight anymore, here this one comes along - from the rust belt - Ohio no less! I guess they are still out there somehow. What an incredible car. Love that dash. You hate the dealer tag, but I hate the fender skirts.

 

[67-Fury]

Dam that car is Fu#king nice. And Clean.

 

[kenmdale]

No kidding...you have me thinking now. I pulled all 4 wheels today and didn't really find anything wrong with the brakes...All 4 drums came off rather easily. I did notice the rear hubs are very hard to turn though with trans in neutral. Is it possible that's whats going on with my Fury?

Bob

Do you have a suregrip rear end, and if so did you have both wheels off the ground when spinning them

 

[furyfever]

Just when I was thinking that cars like this would be a very rare sight anymore, here this one comes along - from the rust belt - Ohio no less! I guess they are still out there somehow. What an incredible car. Love that dash. You hate the dealer tag, but I hate the fender skirts.

I too like the looks of the 67-68 Furys (especially the standard hardtops) much better without skirts, but try and find a set of rear wheel lip moldings! The skirts give a bulky lead sled look. Without skirts, (quick glance) they look more like Roadrunners from the rear. I've already been looking for a set of rear wheel lip moldings. I filled out the online request at Wildcat Wrecking but no reply yet. Seems like I have done this before for other parts...and never get a reply. Anyone else experience the same? Perhaps they're the stereotypical surly wrecking yard folk?

Do you have a suregrip rear end, and if so did you have both wheels off the ground when spinning them

Don't know if car has suregrip rearend (how can one tell without burning rubber) but yes, I do have both rear wheels off the ground. After I read the message by Polara_500 last night...I went out in the garage and removed the rear drums...they are quite snug, (perhaps I spoke too soon) and then I spun rear hubs. They were quite easy to move...just by one finger. I then put the drums back on and then they were very difficult to spin them...so now I'm leaning toward the (rear) brakes as being the cause. Perhaps they are too tight? And I'm going to take 66300's advice too. I'll eventually replace all three rubber hoses too as they look to be original. Want to do this methodically though...so I find culprit. Thanks to all...

Bob

 

[BigFury]

So damn clean! Very nice car..congrats on the purchase

 

[furyfever]

Unscrewed the rear end fill plug...it's not completely full but level was about and inch down from the bottom of the hole. Inserted a long stick and there is plenty of oil in there. Upon further inspection the right rear brake seems to be too tight and the emergency brake definitely needs adjustment. I'll start there and see what happens. If this isn't it I like having a next plan of attack...replace all 3 rubber hoses.

 

[Fury440]

Unscrewed the rear end fill plug...it's not completely full but level was about and inch down from the bottom of the hole. Inserted a long stick and there is plenty of oil in there. Upon further inspection the right rear brake seems to be too tight and the emergency brake definitely needs adjustment. I'll start there and see what happens. If this isn't it I like having a next plan of attack...replace all 3 rubber hoses.

If you add or change the lube, first figure out if its sure grip. If so it needs an additive.

 

[Polara_500]

Sounds like a reasonable plan of attack - eliminate possible issues one at a time so you can tell when you've found/corrected the problem. Good luck on your search.

 

[furyfever]

If you add or change the lube, first figure out if its sure grip. If so it needs an additive.

Can this be done with car on jackstands...all 4 wheels off? If so, how? Also: should I hear anything when I spin rear hubs by hand w/ drums removed?

Sounds like a reasonable plan of attack - eliminate possible issues one at a time so you can tell when you've found/corrected the problem. Good luck on your search.

Thanks...I appreciate your input/help.

 

[mr. fix it]

or... it could be a sticking brake pedal assembly or MC that is not releasing properly...

You didn't top up the MC with transmission or PS fluid did you?

 

[Polara_500]

Can this be done with car on jackstands...all 4 wheels off? If so, how? Also: should I hear anything when I spin rear hubs by hand w/ drums removed?

Thanks...I appreciate your input/help.

With both rear wheels off the ground rotate one of them while observing the other - if both rotate the same direction it's a sure grip, if they rotate in opposite directions it's not. May want to have the wheels hanging on there, or at least the drums as it's kinda hard to see the other side without that. Spinning the rear axles with no drums in place it should be pretty quiet as you're only supposed to be hearing properly lubricated bearings and so on, with the drums in place you may hear brake shoes on drums and so on.

 

[Fury440]

What Polara said plus, if you turn a wheel one rotation and count the number of rotations of the drive shaft you can estimate the gear ratio.
If you have posi both wheels must be off the ground with transmission in neutral. If the rear end is an open type, jack only one wheel and turn the wheel two rotations.
For example if the drive shaft turns about 3 1/4 times the ratio is 3:23 Its easier to count the drive shaft revs if you draw a chalk line as a reference.

 

[furyfever]

Thanks very much guys...Sure is nice having knowledge come my way. I really appreciate it. Although I've been driving and fixing these great C-bodies for nearly 40 years now...I still have a ton to learn. I'll report back.

I did not top the MC off with anything yet...but I'd only use...and have always only used brake fluid.

When I rotate the hubs, I do hear a slight noise which sounds like gears meshing inside pumpkin.

My neighbor came over tonight and looked carefully at the rear brake shoes and drums. He pointed out some heat cracks in shoes and glazing inside drums so I'm going to get new shoes and have the drums resurfaced.

Thanks again...

Bob

 

[Fury440]

I'm going to get new shoes and have the drums resurfaced.

Try to find a brake shop that will grind rather than turn the drums. When drums get hot, imperfections will create hot spots which case harden. These hard spots are not removed by a lathe, only grinding will remove the case hardened bumps. Secondly, see if he can arc the shoes to fit the drums.

 

[WorkerBee]

While you are doing the brake job, I would suggest flushing your brake fluid as I've fixed a sticking brake problem on one of my cars before. It's not hard.......just a slow process.

 

[Navy1996]

A really nice car, color is great and I love the metal dashboard none of that plastic stuff, you need to have AC here in St Petersburg Florida, enjoy!

 

[fury fan]

If nothing else, you made the AAA guy's day, he's been doing jumpstarts and hauling Kias/Camrys/Fords/wrecked cars all week long. And you never know, your paths may cross again in some grand fashion - some of the finest people I know I met very randomly due to one of my cars. Ever seen Grand Canyon (the movie)?

It is normal to hear a regular 'snicking' noise while rotating the bare axle hubs, that's spider/differential gear meshing. Be aware, those rear axle bearings are NOT lubed by gear lube, they are greased similar to the front bearings and are regularly neglected because of this. Please pull the axles and lube the bearings -- even though your mileage is low that grease is old. There are some tips to doing that job, dig around for a good tech article, I cannot type enough to do it justice.

Try to find a brake shop that will grind rather than turn the drums. When drums get hot, imperfections will create hot spots which case harden. These hard spots are not removed by a lathe, only grinding will remove the case hardened bumps. Secondly, see if he can arc the shoes to fit the drums.

You're going to have to look around to find a specialist that can arc the shoes, if there's even anybody that can do that anymore?