65 Sport Fury

motor mounts w/poly locs, header bolt kit and gasket showed up today. Poly locs were on back order. i'll post pics when the mounts are done. It'll be a long while before i know how well they work. But the driver's side mount takes care of putting a 440 in a 65 Fury.
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I welded up my own oil pump boss mount and drilled/tapped the holes. I will share pics soon.
 
A little dusty but some pics of the front suspension.
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I was talking about taking it off of mine but the wife wants to keep it. WTF! LOL. She is really killing me with this crap!
Hey, look at it this way: yours will be the only car at the meets with that unique decorative option.
 
Your a man after my own heart. Our cars will look like brothers when you finish but remember "Black cars look better in the shade". What you are doing is exactly what I did to mine but it took me three years and 160 pictures. I left the chrome off and leaded the holes on both sides, front of the hood and rear trunk panel. Pay close attention to the mounts for the hood torsion bars as they wear at the seats and make hood alignment a bear. Use the feeds from the dimmer switch to trigger your relay coils for the headlites - the original feed wires are to light. Fuse and feed the relays directly from the battery post. There's a kit you can buy or just make your own. If you ever remove the cross member at the rear of the tranny, make sure to jack the frame stubs before bolting back in. The torsion bars will want to tip these down and the bolt holes won't line up. She'll want to wallow on cornering but a helper spring leaf and rear torsion bar will steady the *** and Bilstein's all around will keep her flat.
Over sizing the front sway bar is a disaster on these cars and will cause loss of alignment in no time as the stress is transmitted to other front components. The cable shift tranny has to go. Find a 70 and up unless you already have one - their built better and give kick down on demand at any gas pedal position. PM me if you would like some pics of mine. These cars are rarely seen on most forums.
 
you can buy new full halve quarters for a bill a side and as flat as this car is a good body man can fab them but not for a bill a side. that's how i fixed mine week and a half finished and painted. i 60 yrs old and wanted to drive my fury not be dead and it still setting in a body shop
 
engine and trans back in as well as pics of the Schumacher motor mounts for a 440 in a 65 C.
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So, what were the dimensions you used for the steering joints? 3/4 36 spline x 3/4 DD into 3/4 DD shaft into 3/4 DD x 5/8 36 spline? Amazon has generic black steel joints, but I can't find that exact combination. I can find the two joints for a 1" DD shaft but no shaft, or one of the two joints and a 3/4 shaft. I may just have to go black joint, stainless shaft, stainless (expensive) Borgeson joint. It'd save $50.
 
Not to awake an old thread, but looks nice! Thanks for the steering shaft info. I bought a Flaming River shaft but it was wrong. Now I know how to make it right. I was just worried about having 2 u-joints and the shaft binding because of it. Have you turned the wheels both ways? Does it turn smooth? I'm guessing with the shaft being so short, it shouldn't bind.
 
If this is what you ended -up with when all was said and done, great minds think alike.
I think these cars were meant to be black in color with no side chrome and little in the way of badging. You've done a fabulous job on the body work and I'm so glad mine didn't need any at all after the original paint was removed to the metal.

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If this is what you ended -up with when all was said and done, great minds think alike.
I think these cars were meant to be black in color with no side chrome and little in the way of badging. You've done a fabulous job on the body work and I'm so glad mine didn't need any at all after the original paint was removed to the metal.

Good lord, that thing is beautiful!
 
If this is what you ended -up with when all was said and done, great minds think alike.
I think these cars were meant to be black in color with no side chrome and little in the way of badging. You've done a fabulous job on the body work and I'm so glad mine didn't need any at all after the original paint was removed to the metal.
Yaztee I agree with you.. I took all the trim off of mine as well and like it much better,it's a cleaner look. And the gas tank is working great and looks like it should. Thanks again
 
I'm not sure how you addressed filling all the trim holes but on mine, I lightly countersunk the trim holes and filled them with lead backed with small copper disks. In the future, the lead can be easily be melted out should a future owner wish to reapply the trim. Lead is much better than bondo and not as permanent as welding and sanded perfectly flush to the metal surface. That was five years ago and the body shop was amazed that although they could see the fill, they couldn't feel it or detect them after painting. No surface filler required.
 
A good friend of mine did the work and got the car straight. He brazed the holes shut and hit it with a weld bead. There's no telling by touch or sight. But certainly credit to you for having a black car which only compounds the challenge.
 
I am keeping the side trim on mine. In my opinion it is part of the character of older cars. I did some decluttering of all the badges. The Commando V8 is gone and the Red/White/Blue bars. As well as PLYMOUTH on the hood and the Sport Fury badge on the trunk.

Updates are few and far between as the shop doing the work works at their own pace and I am good with that. If they finished i dont have a place to store it as the garage is full. I am in the process of building a new house with a bigger garage, just waiting on the final approval from the bank so the actual work can begin.
 
Great build! I too have a 65 Sport Fury that I bought in high school 20 year's ago with a long rod 383, Indy heads, 4000 convertor, 4.30's, 29 x 11.50 M & H's, Cal Tracks, NX plate system. Its my street beast. It runs 10.60's through the 3.5" exhaust and insults all the Corvette fags as the plate reads ZR WHT making fun of the ZR 1
 
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