Tried the Zevo Slyvania LED 1157 bulbs.

[mr. fix it]

Agreed, the load running thru the switch on our 67's is a lot, with all those bulbs in the back. But what do you do about the flasher? Those led's make the flasher go nuts don't they?

The load isn't getting any better with the paltry 18g wring used by Mopar either. my wiring was pretty brittle when I pulled it out.

Source out either an HD flasher or an electronic one.
I got lucky as there is one of the other already in the car and it didn't cause the hyper flash

 

[1978 NYB]

Did you have to use an electronic flasher (EP27) to get the turn signals to flash properly?

 

[furyus 67]

Looks good!! It's going on my list of things lol!! Thanks for posting the results!!

 

[mr. fix it]

Did you have to use an electronic flasher (EP27) to get the turn signals to flash properly?

Sorry I don't have that information . I can do a check later if I feel like crawling under the dash later tonight.

 

[mr. fix it]

Looks good!! It's going on my list of things lol!! Thanks for posting the results!!

No Problem! this is why we have a great membership here.
A willingness to share info

 

[Big_John]

Hmmm, these might prolong the life of my almost unobtainable tilt/tele turn signal switch.

I think that would as long as you went to an electronic flasher. If you have to put resistors in the circuit to make them flash, then you haven't made it any better for the switch.

 

[mr. fix it]

My sister put some on her explorer and it does the "hyper flashing". I've gotta put some of these load resistors on. Here's a link. I have pondered the idea for the fury also.

How to Install Load Resistors for LED Turn Signal Lights

The major problem with load resistors is that they increase the load on the electrical system neutralizing any electrical load saving you realized by installing LED lights!

If you have to install resistors then you shouldn't waste the time and money invested in LED lighting...

To avoid the load resistors, use a proper electronic flasher which may cost some $$ but is the best way to go.

 

[78Brougham]

Sorry I don't have that information . I can do a check later if I feel like crawling under the dash later tonight.

Please let us know when you get the chance to look, thanks.
If I have put resistors in...it ain't happening.

 

[Big_John]

The major problem with load resistors is that they increase the load on the electrical system neutralizing any electrical load saving you realized by installing LED lights!

If you have to install resistors then you shouldn't waste the time and money invested in LED lighting...

To avoid the load resistors, use a proper electronic flasher which may cost some $$ but is the best way to go.

Looks like the flashers can be had for under $10 each on Ebay and even cheaper if you don't mind ordering (and waiting) from China.

 

[78Brougham]

Can you post what they are John? Thanks!

 

[Big_John]

Can you post what they are John? Thanks!

These should work.
1 2-pin Led Flasher Relay #CF12ANL-01 12V Direct Plug-in Replacement

 

[Gerald Morris]

I've been using the $15 red LED 1157s from Wally-World for 6+ weeks now, sans issues with the flasher, which is solidly electro-mech 1920s tech after all. You can see what a vast improvement they are over incandescents, given how old the plastic lenses are here. Cops would pop me sooner or later had I stuck w white light in them, so I eagerly embraced Necessity.

 

[cantflip]

Almost everything you need to know about LEDs as effective signal lighting is as close as your next red light. Look at the lights on most of the trucks and you will see the majority are LEDs. When you compare lights, you can purchase a small quantity and see how you like their effect and electronic flashers should be in stock in most parts stores... Junior just doesn't know how to find anything the computer screen doesn't show in the top 5 options. Lighting standards have evolved since your car was built and drivers seem to have devolved... Nice bright tail and brake lights make sense to me.

I am a huge fan of taking load off of any switches you can. The electrical items you can't easily replace would be far better of if you were running less current through them, same for old wiring. You may even build out the circuit low enough to lower the fuse amp rating a step, which is just that much more protection for old wires.

The more I play around with the old wiring, the more I want to just build a new set of harnesses and properly circuit protect everything and take load off switches with relays. If you think of that as a good idea, but too much work... this is a great place to start. I think the next easiest and possibly best change after this one would be the headlight relay kits I have seen around here. I have personally seem too many burnt headlight switches over the years to not like that upgrade.

If your car is a perfect 100% original... don't... otherwise why not try for $20 and see what you think?

 

[Gerald Morris]

... Lighting standards have evolved since your car was built and drivers seem to have devolved... Nice bright tail and brake lights make sense to me.

I am a huge fan of taking load off of any switches you can. The electrical items you can't easily replace would be far better of if you were running less current through them, same for old wiring. You may even build out the circuit low enough to lower the fuse amp rating a step, which is just that much more protection for old wires.

The more I play around with the old wiring, the more I want to just build a new set of harnesses and properly circuit protect everything and take load off switches with relays. If you think of that as a good idea, but too much work... this is a great place to start. I think the next easiest and possibly best change after this one would be the headlight relay kits I have seen around here. I have personally seem too many burnt headlight switches over the years to not like that upgrade.

If your car is a perfect 100% original... don't... otherwise why not try for $20 and see what you think?

Amen! Cree makes some nice LED headlights to the size of our old rides. (30 W load vs. 35W for low beam, 50 W high incandescent) When I get the $$$, I'm getting some. Old wiring is a HAZARD, so knocking the load down on it by near an order of magnitude really behooves drivers. Old, hard to replace switches will last considerably longer on LEDs instead of crude Edisonian heaters, which is all incandescent bulbs are. I've been delighted with the superior lighting and safety of my tail lights and the license plate light thus far, and expect nothing but good from further upgrades, as budgetary constraints permit. Relays, breakers, new wiring, LED illumination ALL to the good.

 

[cantflip]

Amen! Cree makes some nice LED headlights to the size of our old rides. (30 W load vs. 35W for low beam, 50 W high incandescent) When I get the $$$, I'm getting some. Old wiring is a HAZARD, so knocking the load down on it by near an order of magnitude really behooves drivers. Old, hard to replace switches will last considerably longer on LEDs instead of crude Edisonian heaters, which is all incandescent bulbs are. I've been delighted with the superior lighting and safety of my tail lights and the license plate light thus far, and expect nothing but good from further upgrades, as budgetary constraints permit. Relays, breakers, new wiring, LED illumination ALL to the good.

The only thing about the headlights is... I don't like the way they look. That's why I advocated the relay set up. I do see the LEDs eventually taking over the plug in replacement market... HIDs that are cheap are not DOT approved lighting... They all just look wrong to me. A nice LED inside a lense may not even be noticeable except by it's brightness.

 

[ceebuddy]

All safety aspects put aside, I like the slower increase in brightness of incandescent bulbs when they light up and the slight after glow when they are turned off, versus the instant on-off type light emittance of LED's, especially on an old car.

It might not be noticeable when you just look at the turn signal flashing on a car using regular bulbs, but the difference shows if there is another car next to it using LED's.

 

[vdk2010]

All safety aspects put aside, I like the slower increase in brightness of incandescent bulbs when they light up and the slight after glow when they are turned off, versus the instant on-off type light emittance of LED's, especially on an old car.

It might not be noticeable when you just look at the turn signal flashing on a car using regular bulbs, but the difference shows if there is another car next to it using LED's.

Especially on the '69 Imperial sequential turning signals. That finally held me from using leds on my taillights. It's not a flowing motion anymore with the leds.

 

[cantflip]

Especially on the '69 Imperial sequential turning signals. That finally held me from using leds on my taillights. It's not a flowing motion anymore with the leds.

That hadn't occurred to me at all... I wonder how easily one of those sequencing boxes could be set up for a custom effect... leave last bulb on X ms after next bulb is lit...
leave it, half the cool factor is the period tech doing the job.

 

[vdk2010]

That hadn't occurred to me at all... I wonder how easily one of those sequencing boxes could be set up for a custom effect... leave last bulb on X ms after next bulb is lit...
leave it, half the cool factor is the period tech doing the job.

The original setup only has a small, pushing shaft. If you change it, you could possibly change the sequence. But why?

 

[cantflip]

The original setup only has a small, pushing shaft. If you change it, you could possibly change the sequence. But why?
View attachment 81260

I was referring to electronically sequencing LEDs to try to match the effect... I just think it's a cool effect based on the technology used at the time. I wouldn't change a thing.