Calling all Evan's Waterless Coolant users

Evan's is all that it's cracker up to be, but is expensive.
I doubt it will cure your problem.
Check your fan,.... is it turning the right way....? Blowing in, not out.

Fan is turning the right way. New aftermarket clutch fan, water pump, fuel pump, stock shroud, radiator, new plugs and points, timed, tested for combustion leaks, burped (that helped)..... I wonder if it is running too lean..??
Or if I need to burp it even more...

It turns over easy enough, so not excessive mechanical resistance. I also wonder if the tranny is weak and that could be causing the engine to work more...no, on second thought, it puts along too easy, there is not too much resistance..
 
You need to verify what the operating temp actually is. I changed the guage sender on the Admiral because the guage was reading hot, although there were no other signs of overheating....... No change.
I bought an electric aftermarket guage at Carlisle and installed it. Now shows a steady 190 degrees, 200 when towing.
 
That stuff is too expensive to be experimenting with.

The corrosion claim I can understand. Only crack in that is you connot eliminate all the oxygen in a non recovery system, so you need to modify your old car to see the full benefit of corrosion. The other problem is the high boiling point
1 if your engine is boiling over rumbling radiator and completely maxed cooling system, you have a problem.
2 At 16 psi cooling system pressure the boiling point is like 250+ not the 226 they claim. Again if you car is running at 250+ degrees you have a problem.
3 Theirs stays liquid to 375. Your engine oil and trans fluid have begun to degrade by then so what good is that doing unless of course you are escaping from brain starved zombies maybe you want to keep running it for awhile.


I agree that I definitely have a problem, just can't find it. The EWC is a band-aid. What other reasonable options do I have?
If the cooling system doesn't hold pressure, the engine WILL overheat.

Thanks. I'll add it to my list.
 
You need to verify what the operating temp actually is. I changed the guage sender on the Admiral because the guage was reading hot, although there were no other signs of overheating....... No change.
I bought an electric aftermarket guage at Carlisle and installed it. Now shows a steady 190 degrees, 200 when towing.
Operating temperature is unstable. It climbs..
 
)..... I wonder if it is running too lean
This could be a problem, any carburetor changes from stock. The other suggestion might be to just time it by ear or vacuum, turn up the timing till it starts idling poorly then back off and check it with a light to stay below ~14° btdc on a big block and below 12° btdc on a small block. How do the plugs look? Don't go by factory gauge. The one in my car is wrong internally it will be by H on a 60° day I have changed everything else besides the gauge itself sending unit, engine, water pump, thermostat, radiator, fan, nothing changed guage. Like I said earlier 90+ day idling and top radiator hose was 216 guage was plastered up at H. Bottom hose was 156 so I was getting a 60° drop on a almost 100° day.
If the car was that lean you should feel some surging at steady state cruise.
 
basically an air pump hooked to a radiator cap, pump that sucker up to about 20psi and go make a sammich.

if that needle moved off of 20psi, you have leaky somewhere.

hope its not a head.
 
I had a similar problem years ago with my Dakota. The original plastic rad sprung a leak so I replaced it with a aftermarket rad. The overheating continued. I chased it for awile, new therm, hoses, water pump, etc, and decided it had to be the replacement rad. Turns out it was a 6 cyl rad, I had a 318. They looked just alike. We replaced the radiator and all was well.
 
Y'all aren't going to like hearing this but heard something that blew my mind. Had a conversation with a DD guy once that said the only motor he runs is a 440 and never uses a radiator
 
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