Do NOT Buy From Stainless Steel Brakes Inc!

65FuryPaceCar

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Wanted to convert my 1965 Sport Fury from manual drum brakes to power with front discs.
After a lot of research, I decided to forego the long, arduous process of locating old parts from various years and models, and just going with a conversion kit from Stainless Steel Brakes, Inc.
Yes, it was expensive - but I wanted to have a nice, new, balanced system with modern master cylinder and caliper pistons, etc.
Over the phone, they were very helpful and seemed quite knowledgeable about my car. They assured me it would be pretty much a bolt-on system.
So I ponied up my $1,200.00 and waited the 3 weeks they said it would take to receive my parts.
Then another 3 weeks...
Then another 3 weeks........
@ 3+ months after I ordered and paid for the brakes, they finally arrived.
Most everything bolted up as promised. The shortest pedal linkage they send has my brake pedal far too close to me - a good 7" in front of the gas pedal. But I could learn to live with that.
2 days of work later, everything is bolted up, bled, and good to go. But NO BRAKES!
I have less than 1/2" pedal travel and then it feels like I've hit a brick wall - with very little stopping power.
Yep - you guessed it. No boost!
So I called up Stainless Steel Brakes and they THEN told me that cars in the 60's didn't make enough vacuum to run a modern booster.
THEN WHY THE HELLO DID THEY NOT TELL ME THAT TO BEGIN WITH???????
Now they say I'll have to spend ANOTHER $350 for an electric vacuum pump - which is loud and will make my engine compartment sound like crap.

So - long story short (which it was not) - DO NOT BUY FROM THESE GUYS! 4 months, $1200, and an un-drive-able car.

Thanks for all the expertise, Stainless Steel Brakes, Inc.
 
Now some will say they probably have had no problem but that isn't the point. It is the job of the person on the phone to be well versed in what they are selling or what service they are providing. Once the person learned this was going into a 1965 car, and there is a boost issue, that should have made them immediately alter their recommendations for the car. if that was not done that is the fault of the business and the employee who clearly didn't know the ins and outs of what they are selling.

In my field I never make a recommendation until I know all the facts and variables. That is the only way to do it and base my reputation on it. To this day I still get the occasional call, from someone I haven't seen in years and states away, asking my opinion about an issue. When asked why they call they always say because they trust my recommendation from past experience.
 
Had they told you the truth, they wouldn't have made any money. not like they were ever going to see you again?
 
I can't even recall how many time I've read disk break conversion articles, forum posts, comments etc that said you need a disc brake booster and master cylinder, and appropriate distribution block when converting to disc brakes.
 
put a ssbc package on a 71 duster , power brake disc front conversion . no stopping issues , work well on just 15 inches of vac . also used there adjuster for rear brakes .

DSC08615.JPG
 
I can't even recall how many time I've read disk break conversion articles, forum posts, comments etc that said you need a disc brake booster and master cylinder, and appropriate distribution block when converting to disc brakes.

Nonetheless, still the responsibility of the seller to educate and make sure the package offered is correct for the application. If not willing to do so would be one strong reason not to do business with them. It is their job as they are the "experts" and the buyers knowledge could be minimal or extensive which they don't know but should assess.
 
Nonetheless, still the responsibility of the seller to educate and make sure the package offered is correct for the application. If not willing to do so would be one strong reason not to do business with them. It is their job as they are the "experts" and the buyers knowledge could be minimal or extensive which they don't know but should assess.

Whatever you say. I'm just saying it's wise to do a little research or ask some questions of friends or online if you are modifying a car's major systems. This is probably the most common upgrade on 60's cars being done now for years.
 
Tallhair;

Feel your frustration. Rather than give these turds any more money for a vacuum pump, why not use one from a 04 or 05 Neon. They are quiet and should produce enough vacuum to run your booster. Or you could use a bendix unit from a 70's C body which was designed to run with the vacuum that engines of that era produced.

Dave
 
So I called up Stainless Steel Brakes and they THEN told me that cars in the 60's didn't make enough vacuum to run a modern booster.
The person you talked to is full of it, cars from the 60's make plenty of vacuum and it shouldn't be the issue unless you have a monster rumpy cam making 6-8" of vacuum at idle.
 
I tend to agree with that, the motor is making vacuum.

@tbm3fan
Now some will say they probably have had no problem but that isn't the point. It is the job of the person on the phone to be well versed in what they are selling or what service they are providing. Once the person learned this was going into a 1965 car, and there is a boost issue, that should have made them immediately alter their recommendations for the car. if that was not done that is the fault of the business and the employee who clearly didn't know the ins and outs of what they are selling.

In my field I never make a recommendation until I know all the facts and variables. That is the only way to do it and base my reputation on it. To this day I still get the occasional call, from someone I haven't seen in years and states away, asking my opinion about an issue. When asked why they call they always say because they trust my recommendation from past experience.

as an engineer, I appreciate that. we have one try to get it right. and so it shall be.
 
You might want to run a vacuum check on the line going into the booster. You can do this by putting a "T" fitting in the line and then attaching the gauge to the unused port.
If you are pulling 10 pounds of vacuum at idle, you have enough to run the booster. That would suggest that you have a defective booster. Also note that if there was a problem with getting the brakes properly bled, that will mimic no boost. Also, sometimes big, full race cams pull very little vacuum, if that is the case, a vacuum pump will be required

Dave
 
Whatever you say. I'm just saying it's wise to do a little research or ask some questions of friends or online if you are modifying a car's major systems. This is probably the most common upgrade on 60's cars being done now for years.
Wow, I swear I had made a reply here... must be another thread... unless my post cause the server blowup yesterday. :rolleyes:
 
My observations.
People that know these cars better than me can confirm but on a C body the leverage ratio is done by pivot to push rod anchor, meaning to change the leverage ratio you need a different brake pedal, period.
Examples Email bodies and 71 up B bodies use a linkage in pedal box (under dash) to change ratio, but they use the same pedal.
A 66-70 B body uses a ugly linkage in a box but it is in the engine compartment side of the firewall, I think Abodies do this also but I never owed a Abody with power brake.
So if you did not change the pedal or did not install a giant linkage ratio reducer with booster that is why your pedal is high, and may be creating some of your other problems.
IMHO a brake booster that needs 18" of vacuum is broken to start with. I am going to say thier VB will work with a lot less vacuum but they are placing that number high to not have to give away electric vacuum pumps because people want power brakes and 245°@.050 duration camshafts in thier muscle car.
Beyond that it seems to have a plumbing problem, vacuum to booster, hydraulic lines to switch combo valve.

Lastly, I agree with you that this sucks because you paid good money for a kit rather than sorting and piecing this together yourself so barring any installation errors you connecting the front and rear ports together, this is thier failure in service, not providing a complete kit.
 
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My observations.
People that know these cars better than me can confirm but on a C body the leverage ratio is done by pivot to push rod anchor, meaning to change the leverage ratio you need a different brake pedal, period.
Examples Email bodies and 71 up B bodies use a linkage in pedal box (under dash) to change ratio, but they use the same pedal.
A 66-70 B body uses a ugly linkage in a box but it is in the engine compartment side of the firewall, I think Abodies do this also but I never owed a Abody with power brake.
So if you did not change the pedal or did not install a giant linkage ratio reducer with booster that is why your pedal is high, and may be creating some of your other problems.
IMHO a brake booster that needs 18" of vacuum is broken to start with. I am going to say thier VB will work with a lot less vacuum but they are placing that number high to not have to give away electric vacuum pumps because people want power brakes and 245°@.050 duration camshafts in thier muscle car.
Beyond that it seems to have a plumbing problem, vacuum to booster, hydraulic lines to switch combo valve.

Lastly, I agree with you that this sucks because you paid good money for a kit rather than sorting and piecing this together yourself so barring any installation errors you connecting the front and rear ports together, this is thier failure in service, not providing a complete kit.

damn. you are right. none of us caught that. he went from manual to power. you got to change it all, man. you are only halfway there. the SSBC kit is fine. for power setup. not manual.

+1 70bigblockdodge keepin people from dyin
 
I did not even mention the stand off valves stock type proportioning valves because they have no business on these cars in less it is factory correct for the car off let's say a donor car of same options and even that is suspect.
Me personally I would not put that stupid H switch in the system, by the time the light comes on you should already know there is a problem.
Again the OP bought a kit, he paid someone else to do this thinking. Let me know if I am right I'll send SSBC a bill for consultation. LOL
 
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